Tried a known good battery from my dads 94 Cobra, identical issue. So I know the car will crank with no battery but power hooked up directly to the terminals. Will not crank, but rather click once and shut off power completely when started with battery. Jacked up the car and inspected grounds. I see the block to chassis ground strap (replaced two years ago) and terminal to block cable. Both look perfectly fine but will pull and clean them off.
Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Never ending
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WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
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When the key is in the ignition position, does everything work as usual? (radio, cluster, door chimes)
Can you have someone listen with the hood up when you hit start to see if the clicking noise is coming from the starter solenoid?
Also, can you check the cable connections at the starter to see if anything is loose or severely corroded? (In the past when I've been diagnosing a no crank issue due to loose cables, sparks would shoot out from the poor connection. The only way to see if was to have someone watching, otherwise I would never have noticed it from inside the car.)
I might be missing something, but if I understand your descriptions - the engine will NOT crank under any condition. Is this correct?
Can you have someone listen with the hood up when you hit start to see if the clicking noise is coming from the starter solenoid?
Also, can you check the cable connections at the starter to see if anything is loose or severely corroded? (In the past when I've been diagnosing a no crank issue due to loose cables, sparks would shoot out from the poor connection. The only way to see if was to have someone watching, otherwise I would never have noticed it from inside the car.)
I might be missing something, but if I understand your descriptions - the engine will NOT crank under any condition. Is this correct?
The engine would only crank when the cables were hooked up directly to the jump pack, no battery present. See latest post for the fix
So I replaced the braided steel ground strap that runs to the chassis from the motor mount with a 19” 4 gauge ground wire. Figured the extra gauge and insulation can’t hurt. I also replaced the main ground terminal and ran it to a bolt on the block right above the crank pulley. $27 in parts and she cranked right up! See part numbers below
Appreciate it! Picked these up from a guy who had them on 240sx for a great deal. 18x9 and they came with good rubber (275/ 35/18) so financially it made great sense
Tore down the back seat and quarter window assembly so that I can glue the window back to the track. Had to remove speaker enclosure and seatbelt bracket and then 4 bolts held in the entire assembly. Used a razor blade to scrape off old adhesive and cleaned with a degreaser. Applied the new stuff and now waiting for it to fully cure for reinstallation.
I would have expected a black sealant adhesive more like 3M windshield gunk.Tore down the back seat and quarter window assembly so that I can glue the window back to the track. Had to remove speaker enclosure and seatbelt bracket and then 4 bolts held in the entire assembly. Used a razor blade to scrape off old adhesive and cleaned with a degreaser. Applied the new stuff and now waiting for it to fully cure for reinstallation.
Does Gorilla adhesive list glass on the label?
I looked into the 3m windshield adhesive but it was $32 vs $7 on Amazon. This was also marketed to have instant hold which I wanted so I wouldn’t need it clamped too long. If it works well, I will sing it’s praises. 2 hours of cure and it seems rock solid. Will install tomorrow when daylight returns
The mastic has some flex. Construction adhesive is strong, but is usually for pourous or rough surfaces and is eventually brittle. I hope this formulation works for a very long time.
Waited the 24 for it to cure, had to redo it because the window and regulator assembly would not fit in the allotted space. Had to install the regulator first and then slide the window through the top end line it up. Took the car for a drive and all was well. Window lines up very nicely, I am satisfied with the repair. Longevity will be the next question.
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 565
- 144
- 74
Tackled the Walbro fuel pump install today. Ended up dropping the entire tank because the old pump came out with no fuel sock and I figured it had come off during removal. Looked inside and couldn’t find it so just put it back together. Used this kit with new hose, O ring and fuel sock. No pictures unfortunately but everyone knows how the job goes.
Test drive went well with no leaks
Test drive went well with no leaks
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
I think your boost plan is pretty solid. I recently (this past winter) put a v3 SCi on my HCI 302. I went from 300hp to 416hp at 6.6psi.
Thanks, so far I have acquired every piece for the build EXCEPT for the head unit. Still waiting on the funds for that one or a deal on a used unit.
As of now we have acquired:
- Anderson power pipe
- 3.73 Gears + New bearings/Axle Seals
- Custom ASP 7.25" Crank Pulley
- 3.12" Blower pulley
- All vortech supporting pieces (bracket, hoses, tubing etc)
- Delphi Lightning MAF sensor
- MSD 6AL + Harness
- Ford racing 47lb Injectors
- Edelbrock Plug Wires
- NGK TR6IX iridium plugs
- Walbro 255lph High Pressure GSS340
- BBK Shorty Headers and Felpro Gaskets
- Abbot Speedo Box Recalibrator
- CFM Breather Cap
- AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges with pillar pod
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
How much boost do you plan on running with those pullies? 14-16psi? That’s a little much.. I would think about head studs at the minimum.
The blower kit I'm buying will come with the 3.33 pulley that comes stock in the kits so I will be running that one initially. I am not sure how much the crank pulley will add because I cannot find anyone with that size as the foxbodies can run 8" pulleys due to more space. With the 3.33/7.25" combo and the power pipe I am hoping to be around 10-12 and will adjust the blower pulley if she makes more boost than anticipated.
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
I see. Anderson advertises 12-15psi with 3.33/6.87 (and I assume their power pipe). I would guess you’d pick up a couple psi with the larger crank pulley. Even around 10-12 psi I would be nervous about blowing a HG or worse (personally). I’m sure you’ve done your homework and I am not trying to offend. This is what my hundreds of hours of recent research has concluded so I figured I would share.
You're absolutely right. I do see conflicting reports on people's boost levels as it varies so much. I actually am a little bit more worried about the trans/clutch than the motor to be honest but both are very valid concerns. I appreciate the insight as real world experience is always helpful and appreciated. The good news is the 3.12 is a desirable size so I should have no issues selling it and picking up a 3.55" or something in that realm to even things out. Going to the Vortech inlet system would also work but after having that intake tube in my hand I could not install it in the car seeing that massive restriction.
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