Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Never ending
- Thread starter Essn95
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WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
- 74
Late to the party, but if you have an oscilloscope or a high speed ADC to record the signals during cranking:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIL4GIAqA7E
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSkEkfCdZLg
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIL4GIAqA7E
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSkEkfCdZLg
Got an update from Lamotta:
The car is running now but very poorly. What they found was a break in the wiring harness in the passenger wheel well. It could have been nicked when I cut the hole for the power pipe, or more likely, I think the wheel might've been rubbing the harness/powerpipe at full compression or lock and over time, it broke the wire harness which would explain the slow degradation in the car until it completely would not start. It was very tight in there with the wider wheels up front and power pipe. They are now working on why the car is not running well. Could it be the Moates QH dropped the tune file with sitting so long with the battery disconnected?
The car is running now but very poorly. What they found was a break in the wiring harness in the passenger wheel well. It could have been nicked when I cut the hole for the power pipe, or more likely, I think the wheel might've been rubbing the harness/powerpipe at full compression or lock and over time, it broke the wire harness which would explain the slow degradation in the car until it completely would not start. It was very tight in there with the wider wheels up front and power pipe. They are now working on why the car is not running well. Could it be the Moates QH dropped the tune file with sitting so long with the battery disconnected?
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
Glad to see you’re making progress!
If I remember right the quarter house had a battery to keep the tune. Idk about the QH, but we use similar batteries at work and they last 5+ years
If I remember right the quarter house had a battery to keep the tune. Idk about the QH, but we use similar batteries at work and they last 5+ years
rednotch
Founding Member
Majority of the time on these its wiring these days.. The distutor bit cracks me up, must be one of the new China replacements every one sells. The one I took apart for a fox body I only us a tester to swap in and out, to see if a pip or tfi failed, not something I would trust running to redline. At least the ford pip isn't obsolete for that style yet like it is for the fox body.
Yeah I’m going to try and pickup one of those Motorcraft pickup sensors and replace it on my OEM distributor along with new plastic housing and cap/rotor to eliminate that possible point of failure
rednotch
Founding Member
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
- 74
Have you checked out these guys?
Performance Distributors
They've been around for a long time. I haven't run one personally since I could always find Motorcraft, but my friends running GM engines have used their HEI distributors without any issues. This was the only other non-OEM replacement that I have considered.
Performance Distributors
They've been around for a long time. I haven't run one personally since I could always find Motorcraft, but my friends running GM engines have used their HEI distributors without any issues. This was the only other non-OEM replacement that I have considered.
I will definitely look into them as I will need a (newer) solution to the stock piece. Definitely will not be going back to a parts store piece.
Installed a new distributor cap adapter, cap and rotor all from the warrantied autozone distributor onto my OEM (28yr old) distributor and stabbed that back in. Only driven about 20 miles on it, but so far so good! Crazy that the old stock stuff works better than new
Latest issue is having some suspected spark blow out above 5k rpm. I am first going to reset base timing as I believe it is a little retarded from 10deg from when reinstalling the OEM distributor. At the same time I will also pull some plugs to inspect and regap if needed down to 0.028 as recommended by the tuner. I am currently running NGK Tr6 iridiums @ 0.034
Okay this car really stumps me. Pulled the #1 plug, brought to compression stroke TDC and verified timing pointer was at 10° and the rotor was pointing at #1 on cap. Put everything back together and car wouldn’t start. Tried moving the dizzy a little but no luck. This was last week and haven’t had time to touch it again but what gives? Going to try base at 0° and restab the dizzy and see this weekend, and then go to crank but no start. Any help is appreciated
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Go over the big 3 again?
(fuel, spark and compression)
Take a fuel sample and verify no water and the stuff is volatile as hell
Double check the compression just in case your cam gear chunked.
Check the spark with a spark checker or a plug with the negative electrode cut off
(So, you can verify it will jump a 1/4-inch gap) (40 KV or better)
Good luck
You tried flood clear right?
(fuel, spark and compression)
Take a fuel sample and verify no water and the stuff is volatile as hell
Double check the compression just in case your cam gear chunked.
Check the spark with a spark checker or a plug with the negative electrode cut off
(So, you can verify it will jump a 1/4-inch gap) (40 KV or better)
Good luck
You tried flood clear right?
I will have to go back to the basics for sure. I verified fuel is getting to the rails and the fuel is only two weeks old. The car ran one day before all this so that’s why I’m pretty confident it’s narrowed to the distributor, anything is possible however. I did try a flood clear to no avail. Going to start with base timing again and then make sure I’m getting spark
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