Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Never ending

Just wanted to pitch in a little update and two nuances I’ve noticed in the car.
Today I got the rear B springs in with no isos, I’m glad I chose not to cut the deal coil off of them as I’m very happy with the height here’s some pics
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Still have to get the fronts done.
 
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As for the two major issues with the car. When I’m turning and pushing in the clutch and releasing it for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts at slow speeds the car clunks noisily. I’m almost certain it is the exhaust knocking agaisnt the frame, it’s very embarrassing having my car clunk about at slow speeds. I took apart the entire car back and reinstalled making sure to clearance all the exhaust form the frame and such, and I gave it all a good tug from the x pipe back and nothing hit. I took it for a drive and it was all good. Then the next day when I drive it the knock was back. When I took off my tailpipes that come right above the axle, the car knocked significantly less but I couldn’t stand the drone. Does anyone know what this issue could be. I really hate the constant clunking and it can’t be good for the car.


Second issue is the car sits .75 inches lower on the driver side rear only before AND after the lowering spring so I’m at a loss as to why the car sits so much lower on one side. If anyone knows that this could be all help is appreciated. Some threads I came across said blown shocks or bad control arms. Sorry for the long write up but these are the only issues with the car and I would love to resolve them. All help is appreciated
 
Haven’t really updated here in a while so figure I would. Haven’t done much to the car, still waiting for time to get the front springs in as the shock bolt was frozen. Other than that on the bright side, I’m buying some mm sfc full length tmrw so excited to see how those feel on the car, they are highly recommended and talked up around here. I would like to plug my Instagram @sn95_garage for constant photo updates.
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I’m sure they will make your car much more rigid being a vert. On my ‘95 hardtop they weren’t all that noticeable like on the fox, but still great for jack points. Could lift three wheels off the ground when jacking from one corner.
 
Here's what you get when you look at something like the UPR pieces that you just pictured....

A warm and fuzzy.

Just because they fit does not automatically make it worth your while to install them. The wall thickness of those connectors look to be about .o60"

Buy them, put one end in a vise, grab the other end with a pair of channel locks, and see how much force it takes for you to twist them.

I bet they twist like mad.

"Something is better than nothing" is all you'll be doing for yourself when you add a cheap set like that to the floor of your car.

SF connectors in these cars are a big deal. They can go from adding the "modest" rigidity that you'll get from the addition of something like those UPR pieces, to making the chassis so rigid that you can jack up the whole back of the car from one side. The more rigid you make it, the less of an instance of chassis twist. If you control chassis twist, the car handles better, it 60 foots better, it rides better, it doesn't rattle every damn thing loose, every time you go down a rough stretch of road, and the floors don't rip.

If you can weld, make your own..it's probably the easiest project to make a set of SF connectors on the planet.


CarMichael Angelo, DavidCarpenter and others, thank you for your thoughts in this old thread.

I had bought a set of the SMR full length frame connectors discussed in this thread and they were delivered to my house two weeks ago.

When I picked up the box to bring them inside I immediately felt they seemed very light weight so I didn't even open the box and instead did some more searching online and found this thread.

I ate the cost of return shopping, sent them back and ordered the Maximum Motorsports ones I was considering initially. Well they came a few days ago and the weight difference is substantial. This 87 GT may be my last project car, and it's convertible so I wanted to use the best frame connector I could. I thought the SMR was just as good but I was wrong. Subframe connectors are not an item to save a few bucks on, lesson learned for me.

Thanks gents, for you posts and thoughts that helped me in this matter.
 
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CarMichael Angelo, DavidCarpenter and others, thank you for your thoughts in this old thread.

I had bought a set of the SMR full length frame connectors discussed in this thread and they were delivered to my house two weeks ago.

When I picked up the box to bring them inside I immediately felt they seemed very light weight so I didn't even open the box and instead did some more searching online and found this thread.

I ate the cost of return shopping, sent them back and ordered the Maximum Motorsports ones I was considering initially. Well they came a few days ago and the weight difference is substantial. This 87 GT may be my last project car, and it's convertible so I wanted to use the best frame connector I could. I thought the SMR was just as good but I was wrong. Subframe connectors are not an item to save a few bucks on, lesson learned for me.

Thanks gents, for you posts and thoughts that helped me in this matter.
I went through the same thought process. I was patient and found a new set of MM Full length for $65. Got them welded in and it’s a night and day difference. Less rattles, more rigid, better steering feel and much more confidence in corners. Excellent value at the price I got.
 
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I went through the same thought process. I was patient and found a new set of MM Full length for $65. Got them welded in and it’s a night and day difference. Less rattles, more rigid, better steering feel and much more confidence in corners. Excellent value at the price I got.


That's excellent! Great score! I'm sure they will make a huge difference on the GT. I installed them on several stangs when I was in my 20s and I remember the huge difference back then. I don't remember the brand I used back then though. But that's a long time ago now.
 
Also not sure if I mentioned in here but we picked up a set of Cobra wheels that were a little rough and need refinishing. We’re planning to get two of them widened to 10 inches to retain oe look but more meet out back, best of both worlds imo. If you guys have any shop recommendations for wheel refinishing and or widening let me know. I’ll attach a pic if I find it.
 
Also not sure if I mentioned in here but we picked up a set of Cobra wheels that were a little rough and need refinishing. We’re planning to get two of them widened to 10 inches to retain oe look but more meet out back, best of both worlds imo. If you guys have any shop recommendations for wheel refinishing and or widening let me know. I’ll attach a pic if I find it.
 
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