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98-GT Electronic Issue? Need Advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tang98
  • Start date Start date Oct 24, 2011
T

Tang98

New Member
Oct 23, 2011
3
0
0
Nashville
Oct 24, 2011
#1
  • Oct 24, 2011
  • #1
I'm a new member to Stangnet and have just moved to Nashville from Ft.Lauderdale. I love my Mustang and am happy to be part of this community and look forward to getting involved.

I have a '98 Mustang GT with low miles in excellent mechanical condition that has an electronic problem that nobody in South Florida or at Ford can figure out. I'm hoping that I can get some insight from the membership. I was going to sell my GT before coming to Nashville but then I just couldn't do it. I figure that there are better mechanics in Tennessee than in South Florida when I comes to the Mustang. I'm betting on it.

Here's the problem. My Mustang runs great but regardless of temperature or running time, it will suddenly jump out of gear regardless of the speed, rev high a couple of times or so, and then shut down. After that the engine and Theft light flickers like an eratic strobe and there's a clicking sound coming from the right side of the dashboard. When this has happened and I popped the hood, the click is happening in the back left area of the engine and the rad fan is running. Nothing else is going on but this. Once the fan stops running the clicking stops and I can start the car again. It may or may not take. Sometimes I can start it and carry on and other times I will start it and it will repeat the problem. I have had this happen at a Ford Repair shop twice and they thought that they figured it out but they dealt with the result of the issue and not the cause. Fail!

I put my Mustang on a car trailer to get it to Nashville and when I took the truck and trailer back to UHaul (good deal) the manager of the shop asked what I had on the trailer. I told him about the car and the issues and he started laughing part way through my explanation. I said, 'you know what it is don't you?'. He suggested that is was the Amplifier Modulator. He said that they had a fleet back in the late 80's of 14 footers that did the exact same thing. Just stall out the same way with no consistent reason. They put their mechanics on it to figure it out and that's what they came up with. They replaced this part on their entire fleet and never saw the problem again.

I'm not saying that this is the solution in my case but it's the best clue that I have. I really need a knowledgable mechanic in the Nashville area who has experience with Mustangs and might have a idea what the solution to this problem is.

If I fail at getting this sorted, I will have to sell it, which will really hurt, and move on to a more current model. I love the Mustang. Right now, I just can't trust my GT and it's too bad, it's a great ride.

I'll appreciate any advice or direction that you might offer.

Thanks a lot,

Tang98
 

Lugnuts

Member
May 11, 2011
128
0
16
Evans, GA
Oct 25, 2011
#2
  • Oct 25, 2011
  • #2
sorry I cannot be of help here. I would try to track down that clicking noise - it is a big clue the the fix. I am not familiar with a "amplifier modulator". You don't think he may have been trying to point you to the modulator on the cruise control do you? I am sure some of the other guys here can help - they are top notch even when I am stumped. Again though, find the clicking sound and fill us in.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Oct 25, 2011
#3
  • Oct 25, 2011
  • #3
I suspect that the clicking noise is the CCRM which is actually located inside the right front fender well (from the car's point of view). The CCRM supplies power to the fuel pump and PCM. Without power to the PCM, of course the car shuts down.

The challenge is to figure out why the CCRM is dropping out. Reasons include:
  • Bad CCRM.
  • Bad CCRM ground.
  • bad ignition switch.
  • bad or loose ignition fuse.
  • bad battery or battery cable.
  • bad ground. Pay special attention to the grounds around the battery.

Start by monitoring I/P fuse #18 for +12 volts. What you are looking for is the voltage to drop when this problem happens. If it does, the focus needs to be towards the ignition switch.

If the voltage does not drop on #18, then focus towards the CCRM.

A set of wiring diagrams would be a big help trouble shooting this. I maybe able to help. PM if interested.
 
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