Accurate 67/68 Fastback curb weight?

I have scouted out various Mustang fastback sites and each post various car curb weights.

Anything from 2,600 to 3,300 lbs. Does anyone have a stock fastback and know the accurate curb weight of the car (without driver). Oh yea, a 67 or 68 preffered.

This will ultimately help me get an accurate estimation on how much my car will weigh with my desired engine/body pannels ect... I wanna get all the parts and combinations down on paper first before I start a build. I'm looking to make mid to low 10's Naturally Aspirated, so this will help out alot, thanks in advance!

Ok well I am in the process of changeing over brand loyalty, so this is kinda hard for me.

I'v been a Pontiac F-Body guy for as long as I can remember, I love the 70-73 Formula/Trans Am 455's. Now nothing against pontiac, cause they are awsome cars, but lets face it, pontiac engines aint cheap. Theres nowhere near as much support for pontiac engines as there are for ford/chevys, so it's expensive to build up a strong pontiac motor in the 550-600 hp range (this is my ideal range for a 10 second car naturally aspirated). And if I'm being totally honest, the body styleings of the 67/68 fastbacks rival/beat that of the 70-73 trans ams. Also to build a street/strip 10 second trans am, it's gonna weigh nearly 4,000 lbs with a driver. The car itself is wider, longer, heavier, and thus takes alot of horses to get it in the 10 second club.

Also to install a rollbar, I have to basically make access to the rear seats virtually impossible by adding a cross bar and whatnot to get it connected to the unibody frame. With the 67/68 fastbacks, you can install a rollbar and have it hidden within the interior side pannels, and it doesn't impead entry/exiting of the vehicle. Thats one thing I love about the fastbacks, I can have a street legal 10 second car that still looks stock. Also the fold down seats with the trap door makes it better for travel since the f-bodys have really horrible trunk space.

And the fastbacks are alittle smaller makeing em easier to manuver into compact parking spots in a big city such as San Diego.

So I figure if I can get a 3,300 lb fastback setup, it will take less HP to get it into the 10 second club than a 4k lb car. And ford engines are cheaper to build so ultimatly I wont have to spend a fortune on the motor. And another plus is the fastbacks seem to be appreciating value at an alarming rate, so should I ever be forced to sell my car, I can nearly get back what I'v put into it, unlike f-bodys which don't sell for alot. (not that I'd wanna ever sell my car, but sh1t happens and sometimes u gotta sell stuff).

So I figure it's gonna take a 428 motore to get what I'm looking for. Tranny is still undecided, I would definatly wanna upgrade the stock suspencion (which I hear is terrible on fastbacks). Still not sure what to do with the body, either go for a gt type replica or an eleanor kit with black paint/gold stripes.

Car will be a semi daily driver, mostly for cruisein and occasional track use.

Well I'm sure it's far easier to get 550+ hp from a 428 than it is say a 302. And probebly more reliable. Course I'm talking naturally aspirated here too... Anyone can get a 200hp shot of Naws and cheat there way into low digits

I know the coupes are lighter, but I prefer the body style of the fastbacks more, guess it's an F-Body type thing. I can't go from a trans am's to a coupe with absolutly no body scoops

1969mach1351 said:

Looking through some books I found a bottom of the line fastback with no options weighs 2605 lbs for 1967 and 2659 lbs for 1968. One book starts to recognize 6 cylinders from 8 cylinders in 1969. They add about 200 for a V-8.

Click to expand...

Alright then a stock no option 67 fastback with a v-8 is looking like 2.8k+ Course depending on my motor choice, that will definatly go up. But I can also save in areas like the hood and trunk lid by going for fiberglass, use a aircraft aluminum drive shaft, switch out the drum breaks for all disks, ect.. ect.. How many of you guys have opted to keep the power steering in your cars? I know it saves weight and opens up a bit of space in a already compact engine bay, but how tuff is it to turn those wheels when a fastback is something like 60%-40% front-back weight distribution?

Depending on how much weight I can conserve, I might not need to push so much HP from those 2 bolt blocks. I'm just used to haveing 3750+ lb cars so I tend to overdo the hp figures for benchraceing.

But to say 500+ is pushing the limit on an FE block, I have seen some FE blocks over 600 hp. Course they were cammer engines (sohc) rated at 618 for 1 carb, and 650+ for 2 carbs. And I'm pretty sure they used the same 427 FE blocks used in the sideoilers. They have a high nickle content and are slow cooled, so they are pretty tuff blocks. But those FE blocks can be pretty expensive just for the block itself. 2k comes to mind, and thats not even guaranteeing that it will hold up, so you gotta sonic test em. I gotta do more research on the engine options, and I'm single with no dependants so money isn't much of a problem when it comes to devotion to cars. I'v seen various pontiac guys put 20-25k in there engines, and I'm looking to make nearly as much power for about half.

Well not that I'm going for a numbers matching engine/car combo here so my engine options are wide open. However, I wouldn't feel right putting in some new over the counter generic crate engine. Like those 5.0 litre cate motors, no thanks.

As it is, I found a shop that can produce decent 428 engines putting out 500+ HP in the 10k range naturally aspirated. Ultimately I'd like to have an EFI setup, but thats a long way down the road.

Check out the shop, tell me what you think: http://www.fordcobraengines.com/mustang_eleanor_427w.htm