Just block them off at the back of the head and remove them. I cut the ends off the metal pipe and bolted them to the heads backwards as many have done. The one that goes to the exhaust can be cut off near the H-pipe and capped with a rubber heat hose cap. Put a coin in it that fits properly to help with heat resistance and the edge of the pipe cutting into it. Pinch it shut and weld it is a better option.
if you fellas are removing the pipes, I need the one that goes to the h pipe for my stocker. To keep my post tech, if you go to a place that sells the belts in metric units, I believe mine to bypass smog on my GT was 2020 mm or something like that...if you have O'Reilys there, the part number is "Micro V K060775"
On each head there is a small bolt that connects the crossover pipe fitting to each head. Simply (have fun) remove that bolt on the back of each head and the crossover will come off. Then you'll need to plug the holes that the crossover was pumping air into or you'll have exhaust leaks back there. You can either get the proper size short bolt from the hardware store, get the threaded inserts from your Ford dealer, or simply cut the ends off the crossover tube with a hacksaw, flip them over so the flat side covers the hole, and screw them right back on.
I'd add that getting the correct size can be require a bit of trial and error. Depending on the pulleys on the car, and the shape/location/range of the tensioner, deleting the smog pump while maintaining the p/s and a/c, can require anything from an 83" to an 85" belt. Mine has stock pulleys and required an 84" belt to keep the tensioner in the center of its 'range'. I recommend picking up 3 belts spread across the belt sizes mentioned above, and simply taking back the two that you don't use.
BlueThunder- Yes, potentially, there is downside. Working properly, the egr is all upside. It descreases emissions, increases fuel mileage, and is non-functional at w.o.t. so there's no performance downside. It works by allowing small amounts of exhaust gas (egr - exhaust gas recirculation) to be injected into the intake air under part throttle, low load conditions. The exhaust is inert, and displaces air/oxygen that would otherwise be present. That bit of inert gas in the mixture actually reduces (cools) combustion temperatures allowing the computer to add more timing advance, and lean the fuel mixture out without risking detonation. If you remove the egr gas from the equation, the computer doesn't know that, and it continues to add timing and pull fuel under low load. Sometimes this results in detonation that wasn't present before. Since detonation is also impacted by ambient temps, it's cold enough now in most of the country, that you might not have a problem until next spring/summer when temps rise. Unfortunately there's no way to predict what's gonna happen with your car. Variables include mods (compression ratio), engine condition and mileage, geographic location (temps, elevation, etc.). Many others will likely post and tell you they had a problem or didn't have a problem. Unfortunately, that's not really helpful to you. The only way to know what's gonna happen to yours is to remove it and see. But since it won't help wot performance, and it will likely hurt emissions and fuel mileage, why remove it?
Having said all that - I removed all of mine because I didn't like the clutter, and I used a chip to turn off the egr function in the computer - that's the proper way to solve any potential detonation issues.
Good luck with it.
Having said all that - I removed all of mine because I didn't like the clutter, and I used a chip to turn off the egr function in the computer - that's the proper way to solve any potential detonation issues.
Good luck with it.