Progress Thread Akumu No Dara Ra's LSX swap and build Thread! Updated (2/10/22 @ 8:30PM CST)

Akumu No Dara Ra

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Feb 4, 2022
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Warrior, Al
My Name is Lorelei, I'm 33 and about to buy a project car. I'm looking at a 96-04 Coupe with a manual for an eventual high power street build. I don't particularly care if it's a v6 or v8 to begin with, though having the v8 would be nice to get the LSD and proper rear end with, though i'm not even sure that'll matter that much at the power levels I'm going for.

Is there some major issue with using convertibles as a base as far as high power builds (800hp) go? This is a long-term project but I do have the build laid out.

Going to need to take another look at fuel because i'm worried about 93 detonating too early. Cooling systems are not my forte, so i'll be looking at options there too. So far I'm looking at a -8 or -10AN setup.

My wife says I should look into a watts link setup, but also that since this is a street car I might have better luck going with a nice Panhard bar and torque arm setup. My wife definitely knows more about suspension than I do.

I am cleaning up this thread a bit as we go. Bare with me.

Gen 4 LS Swap 96-04 Mustang LS Engine and GM Manual Transmission Mounts
T56 Magnum Transmission (will update exact one later)
Holley Sn95 LS Swap Oil Pan 302-1
Flowtech Sn95 LS Swap Long Tube Headers 1 7/8" primary to 3" collector
3" Header-back Exhaust system with pre-axle dump turn downs

Engine Build

Short block:
L92/LS3 Block (or L9H/L99 + AFM+DOD block off plate)
WISECO PISTONS - LS3/L99 - 4.070" BORE - 4.000" STROKE - 6.125" ROD +5cc VOL - DOME - K448X7
BTR FORGED CRANKSHAFT-4.000" STROKE-GM 58X
BTR 4340 FORGED H BEAM CONNECTING RODS W/ARP BOLTS, 6.125" LONG - SET OF 8
CLEVITE MAIN BEARINGS - LS - FOR .001" ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE - MS2199HX
CLEVITE ROD BEARINGS - LS1/SBC - H-SERIES - STANDARD - CB663HN
BALANCE ROTATING ASSEMBLY
The engine:
(GM LS3/L92 Bare block, 416 stroker (4.065" Bore, 4" Stroke)

Heads:
Cheverolet Performance CNC ported LS3 Heads
BTR .685 Spring Kit
BTR Camshaft 400CI+ N/A Stage 3 camshaft
BTR Chromoly One-Piece Pushrods 7.400" Long, 5/16" Diamater, .080" Wall (set of 16)
BTR V2 Rocker Arm Trunnions for GM LS
BTR V2 Rocker Arm Trunnion Bolts M8-1.25 x 45mm

Will update more as I go. This build hits 12.85:1. This does not include fuel delivery solutions which I intend to purchase separately.

More as I go.

The above parts without labor are roughly $6500 and that does includes the engine build (less the block), and all the swap mounts, oil pan, and swap headers. The T56 Magnum XL-F is around $4000 with a proper setup, but add a clutch and we'll go from there.. A completely stock, running, higher mileage L92 with running gear (less transmission) can be had for around $3500. putting this swap right at $10,000 to get off the ground running and driving. I can sell off heads as a core if anyone will take them, or just try to sell off the parts at market value individually.

Ramblings and other thoughts

For anyone who is wondering about the apparent off topic nature of this thread, I was originally looking for a convertible. I have since moved to looking for a coupe unless an absolutely screaming deal comes along.

Stumbled upon this for gearing calculations: https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx

Short Geared T56 Magnum, 7000RPM, 3.55 rear end, 25.4" tire.

2.97: 1st: 50
2.10: 2nd: 72
1.46: 3rd: 102
1.00: 4th: 149
Top gear at 70 MPH: 2075 RPM

For your amusement:
Top gear at 100 MPH: 2950 RPM


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I would stick with a hard-top but I'd never buy anything for myself that wasn't (the wife is a different story).

That said, either can be stiffened up with off-the-shelf parts made to stiffen up Mustang chassis. The aftermarket has no shortage of such things.

No matter [what] you do with the car, you will end up putting in Subframe connectors. How much rigidity you add beyond that is completely up to you. I would start by looking at kits that are simple to add to or already have integrated provisions for additional stiffening.

Take a look at Maximum Motorsports:

That is a link for complete [package]. You will at the very least get an idea of the kinds of things available.
 
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SFC's would be at a minimum, but you'd probably be wanting some sore of cage for maximum rigidity.

If oyu don't want to go the cage route (and i don't blame you on a convertible) i'd look at through the floor subframes, or perhaps even Stiffler's FIT kit to try and get as much bracing as possible underneath
 
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Yeah, I see your point. Coupe time.

My wife is right, If you're buying a convertible it has to be a miata.
Yeah, I see your point. Coupe time.

My wife is right (but don't tell her that, yikes), If you're buying a convertible for any sort of performance driving, it has to be a car that only came as a convertible (or a miata). (joking, she does drive a 72k mile miata tho). But yeah i'm gonna have to drive a coupe at that point and figure it out from there.

Back to the drawing board. Gotta look for a manual GT or V6 that runs and drives but isn't wrecked, a rust bucket, or dented up on the outside (I'm gonna do a wrap probably and rip the majority of the inside out anyway). How long is the 8.8 gonna last at 800hp? I know the 7.5 my friend had blew up at ~375 wheel from a rolling start on a set of drag slicks. I'm thinking neither is really gonna hold up and I need to go to a 9" with a limited slip.

Well since I can't edit after more than 4 minutes...
 
Now your wife gets the miata ,you'll have to put a eco beast in it for her,so when you drive her to church you won't be late.
 
Now your wife gets the miata ,you'll have to put a eco beast in it for her,so when you drive her to church you won't be late.
Not happening. Two reasons:

Number one she's anal about being a purist and not modifying her cars. Ironically, she suggested an L92 swap instead of an LS3 (Both are basically the same motor, the L92 has solid pushrods and a different intake plenum as well as costs about half as much if that). I also haven't driven a car in a regular capacity since february of 2020.

Second: I don't think churches in rural Alabama approve of lesbians.
 
What's your budget? Here's a manual GT that was just listed on bookface for $5k in Atlanta.


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LOOK everybody!! Someone who knows how to use the edit feature on their smart phone instead of using their finger to block the license plate!! :eek:
That in and of itself might be worth their asking price!! :rlaugh:
 
What's your budget? Here's a manual GT that was just listed on bookface for $5k in Atlanta.


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LOOK everybody!! Someone who knows how to use the edit feature on their smart phone instead of using their finger to block the license plate!! :eek:
That in and of itself might be worth their asking price!! :rlaugh:
I'm looking to spend around 4k for a running, driving mustang. Tax refund gives me another 1k or so this year to play with. Looking at 96-98 GTs specifically. If i can find a deep forest green or pacifc green one with decent paint, and power seats, that tops the list. The manual and v8 are the only parts of that i'm not budging on.
Dam Alabamians, well the Eco beast is a turbo 4 cylinder soooo ?
You could drive her to bootbarn.
As if someone with size 12 feet could fit in anything at boot barn. lol.
 
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Since you said earlier that you don't care if it's a 6 or 8, how about this one for $1k? At least the price for a project isn't too horrible. Unfortunately it's not a manual.


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The other pics are interior shots, and since you said you didn't care about that I'm not copying/pasting them.
 
I'm looking to spend around 4k for a running, driving mustang. Looking at 96-98 GTs specifically. If i can find a deep forest green or pacifc green one with decent paint, and power seats, that tops the list. The manual and v8 are the only parts of that i'm not budging on.


I guess the question to be asked is how good of a starting point are you looking for? In the latest runup, clean Sn95's are not going for stupid prices. I would have said 3-4 years ago you could have found a clean 96-98 GT for under $4K easily. Now even those cars have climbed in value.


Quick look around, even your basic V6 is a $6K car it seems



Emerald Green GT vert $10K

 
Since you said earlier that you don't care if it's a 6 or 8, how about this one for $1k? At least the price for a project isn't too horrible. Unfortunately it's not a manual.


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The other pics are interior shots, and since you said you didn't care about that I'm not copying/pasting them.
no manual, no go.
 
Or this one, which is more in line with what you've said you'd like to get. Again, it's not a GT, but it's only $1k as well....


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Unfortunately it's not a manual either...... :shrug:
 
And I have another question about that. If you're going to be swapping an 800hp engine into it, why would the transmission of the car you're going to be doing the swap in matter? It's gonna get shelled anyway. If it's just needing the clutch pedal assembly you should be able to get them from a salvage yard or Ebay or whatever.
 
I guess the question to be asked is how good of a starting point are you looking for? In the latest runup, clean Sn95's are not going for stupid prices. I would have said 3-4 years ago you could have found a clean 96-98 GT for under $4K easily. Now even those cars have climbed in value.


Quick look around, even your basic V6 is a $6K car it seems



Emerald Green GT vert $10K


Not even remotely looking at cars that nice. I'm looking for one where the paint is partially one color or non existant, the metal is not rusted, the dash may be cracked, the seats exist, and the car runs and drives under it's own power.

I also found this for a fox body option if anyone is looking. 5.0, Manual, Convertible. https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:55f1a6c1-28ff-4387-8c14-04f4e53732f5