Brakes Am I flaring my brakes the wrong way?

opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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I stripped one of my flare nuts and I am attempting to replace it. I cut the line and put the new nut on. Now I am trying to double flare the line. I really don’t understand though. I have been practicing this on some 5/16 transmission cooler hardline that I cut off of my car. I could not get the first part of the double flare for the life of me. I am doing this freehand, as I do not have a vice. Though I do feel like I am getting a good amount of force into it. At first I thought my die were just bad because I got them from a rented tool and they looked pretty bad. I got some new ones that look way better and they have delivered the same results. I decided to try to flare the actual line(which is in the car) because it is smaller and might be easier to bend (also I’m not sure if there is a difference in material between brake line and transmission line). Well I did that for a little while and using a little leverage from the car I got it further than I ever have, until the line snapped clean off!! All that work for nothing. This is now what I am left with.
E03C5DB0-7CFD-4645-B82A-BD17F295EE2C.jpeg

1C40E379-41B6-419E-981A-4BE29344547C.jpeg

I recut the brake line and I am ready to start again as soon as I know what I can fix. I saw a fancy double flaring tool on Amazon for 30 dollars, has anyone had any experience with those? Do they make a flaring tool with a bolt head so I can just use my impact? Lol. Any help is appreciated…
 
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ChaseRoads

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something is for sure off here. It's been awhile since I used one. Did the place you rented it from show you how to use it? looks like you are too far out of the holder. If i remember right, you use the insert as a length guide.
 

opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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something is for sure off here. It's been awhile since I used one. Did the place you rented it from show you how to use it? looks like you are too far out of the holder. If i remember right, you use the insert as a length guide.

Thanks, but I did watch a couple of videos explaining it and followed them precisely… and no the place I rented it (autozone) didn’t tell me how to use them. Also yeah I did use the first part of the die as the marking to tell me how high to bring it up. To be honest I really can’t figure out anything I’m doing wrong. I have watched like 3 videos now and I have followed them exactly(except for one where they show chamfering the edges but I am unable to do that because of the tight space in the car).
 

90sickfox

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You need an on car brake flare tool

Screenshot_20211216-001507_Chrome.jpg
 

evintho

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Firstly, the tool loaner program flaring tool from AZ is pretty low quality. Secondly, every Bozo on the planet has used that same set before you and have probably abused it like a red headed step child! Thirdly, DO NOT use an impact gun when flaring brakelines!! It requires finesse and not a whole lot of pressure!

You've got a few options here. You could go all out with Eastwoods flaring tool for $200....
Eastwoods quality brake flaring tool
or go with the one I have, and like for $60.........
Cal-Van brake flaring master set
or, as 90sickfox posted above, use the one-size Cal-Van tool for 3/16" lines - $25...........
Cal-Van 3/16" brake flaring tool

Personally, I'd spend the $60 for the Cal-Van master set. It allows you to do fuel lines and transmission lines also. Has several different sizes. Take your time and work carefully. Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly.
 
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manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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What I have found is that new brake line is crap and likes to split
I have flared several thousand
Go slow and damn sure no impact wrench (unless just to tighten the jaws)
Yes the base of the insert is also the guide for the length of line to extend out of the jaws to make the flare
Buy your own quality tool
Mine is a Mac brand and I used it for 35 years before braking one insert on the new cheap brake line
Time, patience & finesse
Look for old brake line in grandpas garage
Ford used to sell the stuff in 25 foot lengths
 

LX Dave

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Jul 2, 2017
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If you plan on making or fixing your own lines for years to come, get one of these. Eastwood had a sale on these for $99 a couple years ago and I grabbed one. Best purchase I've made in years. Basically a perfect flare every time, and have already done stainless lines too, and no harsh marks on the line like the cheap clamp style holders.

Tip for when flaring, use a bit of oil or WD-40 on the line before you start. It helps to create a better flare, easier, with less distortion.
 
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Mustang5L5

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I’ve heard ,multiple times, that the Eastwood tool is the best for flaring brake lines.

I don’t own one, so ironically, I suck at making brake line flares.
 
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opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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Firstly, the tool loaner program flaring tool from AZ is pretty low quality. Secondly, every Bozo on the planet has used that same set before you and have probably abused it like a red headed step child! Thirdly, DO NOT use an impact gun when flaring brakelines!! It requires finesse and not a whole lot of pressure!

You've got a few options here. You could go all out with Eastwoods flaring tool for $200....
Eastwoods quality brake flaring tool
or go with the one I have, and like for $60.........
Cal-Van brake flaring master set
or, as 90sickfox posted above, use the one-size Cal-Van tool for 3/16" lines - $25...........
Cal-Van 3/16" brake flaring tool

Personally, I'd spend the $60 for the Cal-Van master set. It allows you to do fuel lines and transmission lines also. Has several different sizes. Take your time and work carefully. Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly.
Yeah I have realized that the autozone tool isn’t going to be work out. I bought a 3/16 only flaring tool from Amazon. This is what it looks like:
FDDB59BE-746A-4714-AF4F-74A43517444A.jpeg

I have tried it many times and i just can’t seem to get it to work. Every time I start tightening the two bolts on the side down to hold the tubing in it pops open and the bolts stop spinning. I think it is because the line isn’t completely straight, though it is pretty close. Here’s a pic:
8C9EEB49-C01B-47F2-AAAE-26F2698C003D.jpeg

I can not even get that to work. This is getting really frustrating. I really don’t want to have to dump any more money into this.
 

opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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You need an on car brake flare tool

Screenshot_20211216-001507_Chrome.jpg
I got something similar to that. It looks like this:
47BC770F-DB73-4C92-A5C7-C74C62023D6B.jpeg

I still can’t get that to work. The line pops out of the channel when I tighten the holding bolts down because I think the line isn’t completely straight:
AB5AD591-234E-4062-A4E4-6223F5E3C6C3.jpeg
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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Can you buy a short lenght of tubing off Amazon or local parts store and practice with it?

The Niccopp stuff supposedly flares nice, but it looks like you are flaring a cut OeM line there. The kinks and bends probably aren’t helping vs a fresh clean line to flare
 

opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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Can you buy a short lenght of tubing off Amazon or local parts store and practice with it?

The Niccopp stuff supposedly flares nice, but it looks like you are flaring a cut OeM line there. The kinks and bends probably aren’t helping vs a fresh clean line to flare
Good idea. I will pick that up tomorrow. Would they carry it at any auto parts store? What material is the OEM line?
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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The OEM line is steel. The copper / nickel line is softer and easier to flare. There should be a union right by the hood hinge. You could unbolt it there and bend a new line to fit. That way you wouldn't have to worry about flaring a factory line at all.

All auto parts stores sell the 3/16th line. You can cut the factory line that goes in the union and reuse that nut. You could run a new line from the union all the way to the brake hose connection. Less room for error or leaks. There will be only two connections...one at the union by the hinge and the other at the brake hose.
 
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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The autoparts stores do sell pre-flared lenghts of 3/16" line. You could maybe buy a couple lenghts and just try to bend it to shape and install.

Which line is this you are working on anyway? To the pass wheel, or the line that runs to the rear of the car?
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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I have 2 conventional flare tools and still have also used the AZ rental tool with success
I have never seen the Capri tool
You could replace the whole line like 5L5 said and fight the install
It takes a bit of finesse to flare
1) Worry not about the marks on the line (that means it is being held tight in the tool)(needed)
2) Make sure the line is perfectly straight sticking out of the tool
3) Use the insert to measure the amount of line to have sticking out of the tool (exact)
4) Mash both flares in there good
5) A not perfect looking flare usually still works
 

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
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Florida
The OEM line is steel. The copper / nickel line is softer and easier to flare. There should be a union right by the hood hinge. You could unbolt it there and bend a new line to fit. That way you wouldn't have to worry about flaring a factory line at all.

All auto parts stores sell the 3/16th line. You can cut the factory line that goes in the union and reuse that nut. You could run a new line from the union all the way to the brake hose connection. Less room for error or leaks. There will be only two connections...one at the union by the hinge and the other at the brake hose.
Thanks for the info on the material. I am going to an auto store right now to get some steel line for practice. I was attempting to take off the union and I stripped the flare nut which is why I cut the line so I could add a new nut and reflare it. I was trying to take off the union and replace it with an adjustable proportioning valve.
 

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
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Florida
The autoparts stores do sell pre-flared lenghts of 3/16" line. You could maybe buy a couple lenghts and just try to bend it to shape and install.

Which line is this you are working on anyway? To the pass wheel, or the line that runs to the rear of the car?
I am working on the line that runs to the rear of the car. I took off the union so that I could replace it with an adjustable proportioning valve but I stripped the flare nut so that I have to cut it and replace it now.
 
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opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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I
I have 2 conventional flare tools and still have also used the AZ rental tool with success
I have never seen the Capri tool
You could replace the whole line like 5L5 said and fight the install
It takes a bit of finesse to flare
1) Worry not about the marks on the line (that means it is being held tight in the tool)(needed)
2) Make sure the line is perfectly straight sticking out of the tool
3) Use the insert to measure the amount of line to have sticking out of the tool (exact)
4) Mash both flares in there good
5) A not perfect looking flare usually still works
I tried practicing flaring it with the conventional tool as a rental from autozone. I even picked up a new set of die because I thought that the rental ones were too worn down. I was practicing on spare transmission hardlines. That wasn’t working at all. I matched the distance and everything and it just wouldn’t give in.