Any nitrous experts?

i just put a zex wet kit on a friends 99 gt. u have to run colder plugs (ngk tr6's) , and return your car to the stock tune with the predator, and then if u want dyno tune it to be supersafe and get all the power possible, but its not necessary depite what anyone says. we ran his on a 100 wet shot and it only has 3.73's and a prochamber and it went from 13.7's to 12.8's, and its an automatic! not bad at all for 550 bux. 100 shots are easily safe too for your bottom end, esp since zex kits are rated at the flywheel with their jet/hp rating.

Nice1Ford said:

I've been thinking about putting a nitrous kit on my 00 GT and I figured the experts here at stangnet would be the ones with the answers. I'm thinking about maybe a 100 shot for now. I will only be using it ocassionally at the track. With that in mind, should I go wet or dry? Do I need colder plugs, injectors, fuel pump for just track use? Right now I am running a diablo tune with the timing advanced more. Do I need a dyno tune with the nitrous and run a different tune when spraying or daily driving? These and whatever else you think I need to know would be great. Thank you. :SNSign:

Click to expand...

I would NOT recommend going with a dry kit. This is because you will rely on your injectors to pump more fuel into the cylinders. With a wet kit, the fuel is already there. You will need spark plugs 2 steps colder as well as a SVT focus fuel pump or GT pump. With the diablo you will need to retard your timing 2 degrees for every 50 shot of HP. However, I HIGHLY suggest you have a shop dyno tune your car. Some safety features you should get are a window switch, fuel pressure safety switch, WOT switch, nitrous pressure gauge, bottle heater, blow down tube, and probably a purge kit.

I have a 150hp CompUcar shot on my 2000 GT. For every 25hp shot retard the timing from stock 1 degree. So for a 100 shot, retard 4 degrees. Get it. And I am running Denso Iridiums that are 1 step colder than stock, but i think for every 75hp shot you are supposed to run 1 step colder. Im kind of pushing my luck. The colder plugs run great in day to day driving. Not sluggish or over anxious, no knocks. And i do recomend Denso Iridiums OR copper plugs. Copper plugs will melt if something goes wrong and wont give your engine a chance to destroy its self, and their cheap and easy to read. But Iridiums have an insanely controlled spark and they can handle the tortue. Plus Denso plugs are kind of a performance upgrade too. I found some for 11.50 a plug. thats under $100 for a set. hope that helps. Oh and if you have a manual dont spray till after 2500-3000 rpm, and dont spray through shifts. Whether its manual or auto. If you have a built auto you can do it though.

actually you should probably consider a dry kit because of the plastic intake puddling issues. I mean wet is fine to but you don't want your intake to come apart.

If you do decide to go dry go with the ZEX #82015 kit.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA-82015&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I like my NX wet kit.
Best thing to do is research research and then make a desicion based off of what you are most comfortable with.

Now having said that. with a 100 shot stock fuel pump is fine although a svt pump is a good idea. Colder plugs are a good idea also make sure they are copper. I like my ngk tr6's. At the recommended gap of .035 I did notice a rather severe drop off in NA performance I played with my plug gap to get what I consider a good comprimise.
IF you'll only be using it at the track...
Odds are they will wnat you to have a blowdown tube.
You will want to know bottle psi. Guage.
You will need some way of warming the bottle. Either hot day, heat gun, bottle heater, or redneck way of a torch. you can also use a heating pad/blanket.
As for the predator. What I would do is either flash stock tune and spray or pull a few degrees of timing out. My nitrous tune we used my NA tune and pulled 2 deg out then fattened the fuel up and she gets kinda rowdy.

the98stang said:

I would NOT recommend going with a dry kit. This is because you will rely on your injectors to pump more fuel into the cylinders. With a wet kit, the fuel is already there. You will need spark plugs 2 steps colder as well as a SVT focus fuel pump or GT pump. With the diablo you will need to retard your timing 2 degrees for every 50 shot of HP. However, I HIGHLY suggest you have a shop dyno tune your car. Some safety features you should get are a window switch, fuel pressure safety switch, WOT switch, nitrous pressure gauge, bottle heater, blow down tube, and probably a purge kit.

Click to expand...

A lot of what he is saying can be done by just being safe with your kit. The window switch, WOT switch, blow down tube, and purge kits are all nice features that are not needed on a 100 or smaller shot on a street car that won't be spraying every single day.

The fuel pressure gauge is less of a neccesity and more of a nice to have sort of thing. If you have a quality bottle heater, your bottle will always be at the right pressure (assuming its filled). Pressure gauges come in handy when you don't have an automatic bottle heater or you are trying to figure out how much nitrous is left in the bottle. Some people also like to overpressure their bottles a bit so a gauge can come in handy there too.

I hate to say it, but push button switches are quite nice and a much cheaper setup and can be just as safe if you are smart while using them. If you drive a manual, set the push button to your right hand that way you can't physically hold the button down and shift gears at the same time (dont put it on the actual shifter).

Blow down tubes are sometimes needed if you want to take it to a track. It really depends on the track regulations in your city/state.

Purge kits are nice but in no way needed for street use. Especially if you are trying to hide the system from some unsuspecting foes. It just ensures your lines are clean and ready for the next race.

I use one step colder plugs. The ngk tr6's.

Stock fuel pump should be ok for up to 125hp shot.

You can spray right thru shifts on an auto no problem. If you have a manual a window switch is a good idea. This way if you a miss a shift you wont blow up. I dont think its necessary with an auto.

Wet kit all the way. Unless your doing nitrous burnouts or going over 125hp shot intake puddling should not be a problem.

I am running stock timing on my 125 shot with no knocks at all. This is even in very hot weather. Dyno tune isnt necessary however you should put it on a dyno to get your a/f ratio and ensure you are not lean.

Nitrous pressure gauge is mandatory. You always want consistent pressure. ~1000lbs is best. Make sure when you get your a/f checked that you are at this pressure. From there you know that less pressure in the bottle and you will be running more and rich and more pressure in the bottle more lean.

As for what kit I would go with an NX wet plate system if I had it to do over.

Get ready for the time of your life. When that bottle is open nitrous is king.

The Nitrous Express 4.6L plate system is something you
should consider.
I had a NX 75 jets on my old 92 GT and I loved every minute of it.

A well setup and thought out dry kit is safer in our cars than a wet kit.. By well thought out I mean not setup by some fool who thinks he can run a 125 shot on the stock injectors and stock pump...

Another option to consider is the NOS direct port kit.. this is the best of both worlds and really is not that much more expensive than the other kits when you consider it comes with a lot of stuff that is optional on the other kits.

if you go wet get the plate kit