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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

ARP undercut studs

  • Thread starter Thread starter hollywoodstang
  • Start date Start date Nov 25, 2008

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
1,095
2
36
Nov 25, 2008
#1
  • Nov 25, 2008
  • #1
ARP undercut head studs

Hey guys i am wondering if i use the head studs instead of head bolts, Can i install the heads without taking out the whole block?

I want to install the heads without take the whole engine out. Do i have enough "Room" for this process? I am afraid when i install the head studs on the block, the heads wont slide in because i won't have enough room. Such as blocked by firewall or master cylinder etc

And what is the difference between "regular studs" and "undercut studs"?

Thanks
 

FlyBy763

Member
Apr 23, 2004
439
0
17
Palm Bay, FL
Nov 25, 2008
#2
  • Nov 25, 2008
  • #2
You should be able to get them off with studs. I have done mine twice with no problems.
 

stangster50

New Member
Nov 19, 2006
129
0
0
cranston ri
Nov 25, 2008
#3
  • Nov 25, 2008
  • #3
worst that could happen? place the head on the block.... screw in studs with thread sealer.... then screw the nuts on....
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Nov 25, 2008
#4
  • Nov 25, 2008
  • #4
According to a turbo site I just read, undercut studs means the shank is thicker and provides more clamping force. They might be harder to install, 'cause the shank will press on the threads in the block. They're not necessary, just another expensive part to put on.
 

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
1,095
2
36
Nov 26, 2008
#5
  • Nov 26, 2008
  • #5
Okay so regular studs it is. how about the nut? Which on should i go with? Should i go HEX or 12pt?

Thanks
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Nov 26, 2008
#6
  • Nov 26, 2008
  • #6
I prefer 12pt because you have less of a chance to round off one of the corners on the nut. More points to distribute the pressure. Of course, you need 12pt sockets as well.
 

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
1,095
2
36
Nov 26, 2008
#7
  • Nov 26, 2008
  • #7
Thanks bro for helping me out. I will get the 12pt ones. Any ways how is car coming along? did you get it all back together? I wanna see it. post some photos. I was gonna do Cobra set up myself but i sold the gt40 intake and gt 40 heads for too good of a price(i sold it all for $1200) so i am doing the edelbrock set up.

I think i will barely break 300hp with good tune. But when i get 347 short block we'll see what happens.

Post some pics.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,303
1,648
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 26, 2008
#8
  • Nov 26, 2008
  • #8
No chance of having any trouble removing the heads with studs in. There is plenty of work room in our cars. I must have done a head swap on a 94 and up Mustang at least 30 times, and it's never even been an issue.

Kurt
 

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
1,095
2
36
Nov 26, 2008
#9
  • Nov 26, 2008
  • #9
Thanks kurt!
 

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
1,095
2
36
Nov 28, 2008
#10
  • Nov 28, 2008
  • #10
I ordered the studs today through summit. AND when i get the new studs and everything don't go as planned i am going to blame you ALL!!!

This is the part #
ARP 154-4205

Someone double check if i ordered the right ones for my heads. Thanks
 
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