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Assistance NEEDED PLEASE - Dies Coming to Stop

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cobra 01
  • Start date Start date May 25, 2019
C

Cobra 01

New Member
May 25, 2019
2
0
1
Michigan
May 25, 2019
#1
  • May 25, 2019
  • #1
Hello I am new to this forum. I am going to get right to it. I have an 01 Svt Cobra with a procharger (I do not beat the snot out of my car) and it is only driven on sunny non rainy days. I have been having an issue with the car that I have ran my head into the wall trying to figure it out, I have given myself pounding headaches trying to solve the issue. I'll let you all know my thoughts shortly. But the issue is this, when I shift from say 1 or 3 gear during traffic or coming to a stop and I put the car in neutral (so I dont have my left leg bigger than the other) my car loses power and dies. Ultimately losing power steering, radio shuts off etc. You get the picture. I have a couple of thoughts, the 1st being the car hasn't warmed up to full operating temp, and the 2nd is that since I still have the stock clutch with a super charger the stock clutch has reached the end of life and need to replace it with a performance clutch. Before anyone asks yes the plugs have been changed to to match the power of the procharger, all the fuel injectors are performance, fuel filter is performance and it has an intercooler. It was a full kit specially ordered from procharger and tuned to match from a well know performance shop. Does anyone else have the same or had the same issue? Any thoughts? I'll take any advice or let you all know if I had tried. I appreciate everyone who may respond to the post. Yes I know i it keeps going but the more information I put out there the more you know.
 
U

utikid01

New Member
May 26, 2019
7
0
1
Lancaster pa
May 26, 2019
#2
  • May 26, 2019
  • #2
Cobra 01 said:
Hello I am new to this forum. I am going to get right to it. I have an 01 Svt Cobra with a procharger (I do not beat the snot out of my car) and it is only driven on sunny non rainy days. I have been having an issue with the car that I have ran my head into the wall trying to figure it out, I have given myself pounding headaches trying to solve the issue. I'll let you all know my thoughts shortly. But the issue is this, when I shift from say 1 or 3 gear during traffic or coming to a stop and I put the car in neutral (so I dont have my left leg bigger than the other) my car loses power and dies. Ultimately losing power steering, radio shuts off etc. You get the picture. I have a couple of thoughts, the 1st being the car hasn't warmed up to full operating temp, and the 2nd is that since I still have the stock clutch with a super charger the stock clutch has reached the end of life and need to replace it with a performance clutch. Before anyone asks yes the plugs have been changed to to match the power of the procharger, all the fuel injectors are performance, fuel filter is performance and it has an intercooler. It was a full kit specially ordered from procharger and tuned to match from a well know performance shop. Does anyone else have the same or had the same issue? Any thoughts? I'll take any advice or let you all know if I had tried. I appreciate everyone who may respond to the post. Yes I know i it keeps going but the more information I put out there the more you know.
Click to expand...
I have the same issue with my 1997 cobra. I dont use the clutch to slow down it usually happens on the downshift. since it has the supercharger i'am guessing you have a blow off valve. If not its the pulses from the supercharger messing with the MAF and the IAC. I would also check for a vacuum leak on the piping make sure all hose clamps are tight. One last thing is your alternator. Does it loose voltage with the headlights on. Do they dim out when you are not on the gas at idle or dim while driving. If so check your battery and alternator make sure you have at least 12v on the battery. The alternator should be charging around 14v. If the PCM gets a reading of less then 9v it will shut down or stall. I fixed my issue with fresh gaped plugs and replacing the battery. I also run a 2.1 twin screw Kenne Bell with no blow-off so i got to go easy on stops.
 
C

Cobra 01

New Member
May 25, 2019
2
0
1
Michigan
May 26, 2019
#3
  • May 26, 2019
  • #3
utikid01 said:
I have the same issue with my 1997 cobra. I dont use the clutch to slow down it usually happens on the downshift. since it has the supercharger i'am guessing you have a blow off valve. If not its the pulses from the supercharger messing with the MAF and the IAC. I would also check for a vacuum leak on the piping make sure all hose clamps are tight. One last thing is your alternator. Does it loose voltage with the headlights on. Do they dim out when you are not on the gas at idle or dim while driving. If so check your battery and alternator make sure you have at least 12v on the battery. The alternator should be charging around 14v. If the PCM gets a reading of less then 9v it will shut down or stall. I fixed my issue with fresh gaped plugs and replacing the battery. I also run a 2.1 twin screw Kenne Bell with no blow-off so i got to go easy on stops.
Click to expand...
utikid01 said:
I have the same issue with my 1997 cobra. I dont use the clutch to slow down it usually happens on the downshift. since it has the supercharger i'am guessing you have a blow off valve. If not its the pulses from the supercharger messing with the MAF and the IAC. I would also check for a vacuum leak on the piping make sure all hose clamps are tight. One last thing is your alternator. Does it loose voltage with the headlights on. Do they dim out when you are not on the gas at idle or dim while driving. If so check your battery and alternator make sure you have at least 12v on the battery. The alternator should be charging around 14v. If the PCM gets a reading of less then 9v it will shut down or stall. I fixed my issue with fresh gaped plugs and replacing the battery. I also run a 2.1 twin screw Kenne Bell with no blow-off so i got to go easy on stops.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info. It's funny that you mentioned the MAF & IAC because I have been looking at installing the Ford lighting MAF and buying new IAC since I noticed just before all this happens that the rpm's dip well below 1000 and I can feel the car try to struggle to get the rpm's back up. I do not run a blow off. I really have not paid attention to the lights dimming as I was more focused on getting the problem figured out that I didnt pay attention to anything else. The battery is fairly new and I replaced to plugs with the tr6's. Guess I will see what happens after I replace everything.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
May 27, 2019
#4
  • May 27, 2019
  • #4
You may not believe this but this could be a symptom of a bad battery or other charging system problem.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test

To anyone else reading any of my posts I usually include the line: Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system! Cut corners here at your own risk I'm a big believer in starting with the basics. As such I...
www.stangnet.com

Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. The PCM requires it. Also think about how much power the ignition system actually uses. A small reduction in system voltage results in BIG changes to the secondary voltage.

I generally prefer to fix cars using data analysis and tests. Recommend avoiding the "parts changing" trouble shooting method. If this were my car I would monitor:
  • The IAC duty percentage
  • The MAF flow
  • The RPM's
  • The TPS voltage
  • The TPMODE PID
  • Long term fuel trim bank 1 & 2 (LTFT).
  • The car's speed
  • The battery voltage
  • The motor's computed load factor.
While coming to a stop. What to look for?
  • does the TPS voltage CHANGE while coasting to a stop with your foot off of the pedal?
  • What does the IAC duty percentage do as costing to a stop? We are trying to verify that the PCM is actually attempting to control the IAC.
  • What is the TPMODE while costing? Is it P/T (part throttle) or C/T (closed throttle)?
  • Is the MAF flow steady? Is the value "reasonable" for a motor at idle.
  • Is LTFT changing by large amounts while coasting to a stop?
  • Is the car's speed as reported by the PCM "reasonable"?
  • is the battery voltage stable?
A graphing ODB2 scanner might make short work of your problem. Here's some information on an affordable Windows based unit.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB

While working on your car have you ever wanted: to find an ODB2 operational PID value (say fuel pressure or MAF)? How about graph a PID value over time? Or compare multiple PID's over time? Access a bi-directional PCM control such as test a...
www.stangnet.com

Troubleshoot IAC idle problems 1996-2004

Troubleshoot IAC idle problems 1996-2004

Back to the basics. Check for blown fuses. Especially fuse F2.2 and F2.8 in the Central Junction Box (CJB 1999-2004 MY). Confirm key on power using a known good ground. 1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule...
www.stangnet.com

Pay special attention to how the TPS is used to control the TPMODE PID and how the "ratch" function of the TPS works. Do not try to "adjust" the TPS voltage. Only make note of it and see if it changes at closed throttle.
 
Last edited: May 27, 2019
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