Progress Thread Back to buying sh_t..er stuff.

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CarMichael Angelo

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Are you planning on filling the block, and reusing the stock pistons? Youll need to have the bores honed on a machine after that sht cures...there is some slight cylinder wall distortion as a result of the hydraulic expansion from the concrete.
 

droopie85gt

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Are you planning on filling the block, and reusing the stock pistons? Youll need to have the bores honed on a machine after that sht cures...there is some slight cylinder wall distortion as a result of the hydraulic expansion from the concrete.
Nope.

I have a bore gauge and I'm going to take some detailed measurements and see how much it is, but this block is getting run as is. I am going to have the mains torqued and once it's poured torque the head until it cures. And probably the motor mounts since they are on the sides of the block.

If I were having the block bored, I would pour it first. Otherwise this junk is getting run. Once this is running and I see how far it's going and if I'm having fun, I might build a more ALL-OUT motor...2.5 or bigger stroker, filled block, aftermarket rods, solid cam.

If it blows up too soon and isn't fun, I give up and turn to the dark side. I'll just put a junkyard 5.3 in it and never have maintenance again.

:cheers:
 

74stang2togo

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PS...that 4 door Mav was the ugly phase for PRO-Stock....All that changed in 1978.
5891092e10c9da8e2bea17388db7e2d4.png

Well, if the NHRA hadn't changed the rules and forced Roush to run the 4-door car, it'd have never been ugly... The 2-door Maverick they started with was sexy.

Nope.

I have a bore gauge and I'm going to take some detailed measurements and see how much it is, but this block is getting run as is. I am going to have the mains torqued and once it's poured torque the head until it cures. And probably the motor mounts since they are on the sides of the block.

If I were having the block bored, I would pour it first. Otherwise this junk is getting run. Once this is running and I see how far it's going and if I'm having fun, I might build a more ALL-OUT motor...2.5 or bigger stroker, filled block, aftermarket rods, solid cam.

If it blows up too soon and isn't fun, I give up and turn to the dark side. I'll just put a junkyard 5.3 in it and never have maintenance again.

:cheers:

Don't do a 5.3, do a 4.8 and throw boost at it until you puke. Not until it pukes, that might not ever happen, those bastards have been known to make 1000 horsepower from enough boost to make a Duramax cry uncle as long as the air/fuel ratio and timing are kept where they should be.
 
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droopie85gt

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5891092e10c9da8e2bea17388db7e2d4.png

Well, if the NHRA hadn't changed the rules and forced Roush to run the 4-door car, it'd have never been ugly... The 2-door Maverick they started with was sexy.




Don't do a 5.3, do a 4.8 and throw boost at it until you puke. Not until it pukes, that might not ever happen, those bastards have been known to make 1000 horsepower from enough boost to make a Duramax cry uncle as long as the air/fuel ratio and timing are kept where they should be.

That is sexy! Of course, my Maverick dream has the tubs tucked up against the package tray and it sitting low and pretty with a nice rake.

I said 5.3 because I didn't want to cheat and go immediately to the great engine ever made...the 4.8 liter LS. The best part besides them making 1,000,000 HP is people just about give them away fighting to get a 5.3 or 6.0.

My thought is if I can get 500 hp out of 2.3, them I should be able to automatically start with a 4.8 at 1,000. Am I right??

Actually for all the money I'll have in just the head and valve train, I could have already picked up 2 or 3 complete 4.8's. I almost pulled the trigger last fall before I bought the BoPort head.
 
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droopie85gt

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Well, kiss my ass, this biodegradable stuff does work. This carbon was pretty crusty. Soak it in Piston Kleen for about 14 hours and it pretty much just wipes off with a soft nylon brush. I then washed them off and pressed the rods off the pistons. Some of the pins were a little discolored but I took some 800 and 1500 grit paper and polished them up. I dunked the pistons back in to get them a little cleaner and to clean the ends of the pin bores where there was some build up. I'm guess cheap oil and/or long change intervals. This will be good enough to press onto the reworked rods for 2.3 version 1. My 12 ton HF press worked like it should, went together like it should, so I can't complain there.

Amazon brought me a ring groove cleaner this week, so I will get the last bits out once this second soak is over.

Let's see some testimonial photos, shall we?

IMG_20200419_112057.jpg
IMG_20200419_112100.jpg
IMG_20200419_114629.jpg
IMG_20200419_114633.jpg
IMG_20200419_130851.jpg
 

droopie85gt

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A boosted engine needs forged pistons, so I am reusing the stock ones. BUT putting them on a set of resized/polished rods with ARP hardware. Great idea 1.

When you give an engine ALL THE BOOST the ring seal is important. If the cylinder walls flex you lose seal and power. So you fill the water jacket with Hard Block or concrete. And then you machine the cylinder in case there is any hydraulic creep of the cement when it hardens. Nope, I'm got my super accurate ( :( ) chinesium Amazonian bore gauge and will measure with a high degree of inaccuracy if there's any change in the bore when the concrete hardens. Great idea 2.

But I did spring for a Bo-Port stage 3 ported head. I'll be getting a Bo-Port stage 3 cam and already have the beehive spring upgrade for the cam. I've got a HX35 turbo and recently got the dual scroll header, but it's a T4 flange. So I am going to have to use an adapter. I'll keep the T4 flange so when I realize the HX35 won't supply ALL the boost, I can step up to something huger!

I'm sure I'll do more things with the right intention the wrong way.
 

7991LXnSHO

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It is like Bill Gates does not want home networks anymore and is just into corporate security.

Regular 2 car garage. I've got 3 roll around toolboxes in it...2 are my brothers, lol. I'll get you some pics, so you're INFORMED. I finally figured out that Windows 10 disabled SMBv1 and my old NAS is well, OLD. SO I am accessing my photo collection now.
 

droopie85gt

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It's ok we can use that turbo to feed a larger turbo. I see no issue with supplying all the boost
Compound boost! I've already studied the hell out of it! It would turn it from a light switch of boost 4500rpm to having to turn down boost at low to protect the engine. There's also a guy on TurboFord that has a compound boost setup with a M122 (I think) feeding the turbo. Low rpm instant boost then more boost than you can handle up high.

I'm already planning a MS3 or MS3 Pro and run a C02 boost controller, meth injection, and will try to get 30+ psi out of the HX35 and headgasket!
 

droopie85gt

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I have a heavily modified m90 you can have. Pay shipping.
Feed the m90 with the turbo.
Color me intrigued. I've seen over on TurboFord where that guy was actually using an M90. And then I went here and read til my eyes bled and my brain hurts:
https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=174690

Seems to be a good way to go if you can handle the math, logging and testing. My effort will be a drag car, but I am kinda dreading the fact that it will be a turd of about 140 hp until it spools which may be at 4000+ rpm. I wouldn't mind tagging and driving the thing but what a dog on the street it would be. BUT a blower fed by a turbo.....got pictures of that thing and what you did to it?

And what it would cost to ship to 38018? What's another box to stack in or on top of the Mustang.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
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Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
A boosted engine needs forged pistons, so I am reusing the stock ones. BUT putting them on a set of resized/polished rods with ARP hardware. Great idea 1.

When you give an engine ALL THE BOOST the ring seal is important. If the cylinder walls flex you lose seal and power. So you fill the water jacket with Hard Block or concrete. And then you machine the cylinder in case there is any hydraulic creep of the cement when it hardens. Nope, I'm got my super accurate ( :( ) chinesium Amazonian bore gauge and will measure with a high degree of inaccuracy if there's any change in the bore when the concrete hardens. Great idea 2.

But I did spring for a Bo-Port stage 3 ported head. I'll be getting a Bo-Port stage 3 cam and already have the beehive spring upgrade for the cam. I've got a HX35 turbo and recently got the dual scroll header, but it's a T4 flange. So I am going to have to use an adapter. I'll keep the T4 flange so when I realize the HX35 won't supply ALL the boost, I can step up to something huger!

I'm sure I'll do more things with the right intention the wrong way.
Just in case you missed it, I’ve decided to write a “ stupid story” with your last statement as the main inspiration.
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Just in case you missed it, I’ve decided to write a “ stupid story” with your last statement as the main inspiration.
I missed it.

I always took a stock ring and twisted it around and used it to clean the ring lands.
Yeah, I actually finished cleaning the ring lands with the old rings. They clean better than the tool designed to do this.

I realize I'm no Jon Huber, or even @CarMichael Angelo but if the thing will run 10's once or twice I'll be happy. When I pop the hood and the dood with the LS F body that just got whipped walks by and says, how much NOS are you spraying on the SBF, the look on his face will be worth all the money and effort building this. You just got beat by a 2.3 liter 4 cylinder son.

AND if he skull drags my ass....well, hell boy, I only gots me a tiny 4 cylinder in this heap.
 
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a91what

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Color me intrigued. I've seen over on TurboFord where that guy was actually using an M90. And then I went here and read til my eyes bled and my brain hurts:
https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=174690

Seems to be a good way to go if you can handle the math, logging and testing. My effort will be a drag car, but I am kinda dreading the fact that it will be a turd of about 140 hp until it spools which may be at 4000+ rpm. I wouldn't mind tagging and driving the thing but what a dog on the street it would be. BUT a blower fed by a turbo.....got pictures of that thing and what you did to it?

And what it would cost to ship to 38018? What's another box to stack in or on top of the Mustang.
Let me get some pictures of the monstrosity, the snout did end up getting damaged so I had to improvise by making a quick collar sleeve for it. you could easily replace it cheap. The case was cut apart and epoxied to make the inlet as large as possible, if you followed my build thread this thing was feeding a 5.0 before I moved up to a m112 off a jaguar. oh and I have a slew of pulleys for it you can just have.

1587909558182.png


I found this one on my pc, ill get more if this does not scare you
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
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I missed it.



Yeah, I actually finished cleaning the ring lands with the old rings. They clean better than the tool designed to do this.

I realize I'm no Jon Huber, or even @CarMichael Angelo but if the thing will run 10's once or twice I'll be happy. When I pop the hood and the dood with the LS F body that just got whipped walks by and says, how much NOS are you spraying on the SBF, the look on his face will be worth all the money and effort building this. You just got beat by a 2.3 liter 4 cylinder son.

AND if he skull drags my ass....well, hell boy, I only gots me a tiny 4 cylinder in this heap.
Look now
 

droopie85gt

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Dec 26, 2016
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I had to go look and find your latest posts to figure out what the heck you're talking about. I have watched threads I go to here and that's it. Now I have ANOTHER watched thread. Sounds like you were doing pretty much the same things we were doing in the 90's. Just BBF vs. BBB.

:coff:
 

droopie85gt

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Dec 26, 2016
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Doing wrong things the right way. The piston pins were really sticky and notchy in the pistons. I don't really want to spend $1000 bucks on rods and pistons and get the engine bored. So I wrapped some 600 grit around a deep socket and basically lightly reamed out the pin bores. They are good to go now. Looks like this engine was run hot, low on oil, or long interval oil change. I've got the pins labeled and put in the freezer. When it's time, heat up the rod and pop the pin in quickly. Filled the block up to the temp sensor hole with Moroso block fill. When it sets, I'll get out the bore gauge and see how much, if any bore change there is. If it is too much, I'll bite the bullet and buy a set of pistons...and rods..if I am going to spend $400 or $500 on pistons, plus have it bored, I'll get some aftermarket rods and build a 550hp capable bottom end.
 

a91what

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What size crank pulley does that engine run? With a 6.625 crank and a 1.6 pulley on the blower the m90 was capable of 10psi on a 5.0
 
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