I told Kevin I want my undercarriage done with liner, won't have to worry about rust or keeping it shiny if he paints it.
I told Kevin I want my undercarriage done with liner, won't have to worry about rust or keeping it shiny if he paints it.I can't be the only one who hates the textured under coating trend with bed liner type products. The textured stuff is meant for grip in a bed where its needed. It hides spotty ass work, and will trap moisture over time,s great for a woods beater but not something you car about lol. Every time I see it on something Its a giant red flag to me.
but why? an epoxy is better and no texture to trap crap, no need for it to be shiny or buffed, just sealed.I told Kevin I want my undercarriage done with liner, won't have to worry about rust or keeping it shiny if he paints it.
An epoxy could be easily scratched leaving bare metal exposed, no thanks.but why? an epoxy is better and no texture to trap crap, no need for it to be shiny or buffed, just sealed.
Maybe we aren't talking about the same stuff, I am thinking epoxy primer type of material, what are you talking about?Um epoxy is tougher than any liner.. Its why the all recommended applying liner OVER epoxy.
My car is in the hands of @95steedamustang and believe me there is nothing to hide work wise underneath. He wants to paint it to match, I'd prefer bed liner that will never need to be touched up or worried about. No red flags on my car anymore as he's already taken care of all that.Any 2k solvent based epoxy, sealer, primer what ever they want to call it is pretty much the only air tight spray on product for direct to metal applications that isn't a baked on product. Its a bitch to sand , flexibLe and tough as nails compared to other products, most production shops hate it because time is money to them. The textured stuff is just a gimmick when not used for grip or anti chip applications in areas that see high wear like a truck bed, on a undercarriage out side of off road stuff, its mostly used to hide shotty work, that's all I'm saying, so its a giant red flag to me. I'm sure yours will be sealed with epoxy before any paint work is done.
It's like when you look at a used truck these days and the all got a fresh coat of blacked out under coating sprayed right over the rust. Looks nice at first glance, won't look good done the road lol. Same reason rock guard is a textured product, it has some flexibility in it to avoid chips down to primer but its pretty pointless on the undercarriage of a street car, you can tint sealer or just do a dust coating like the factory would with the color, there not high impact areas, most rust and rot is from bad drainage and crap build up holding moisture or brine, why adding a textured surface to those areas is a bad idea it just helps collect more build up in neglected areas
How else would you explain getting charged $11k (receipt provided) for LMR replica cobra wheels? I custom ordered forged wheels and was well under half that price.I don't think the owner of the car listed got taken. I don't know if the number of hours used to build it are excessive - those that have done a complete build on your own car, how many hours have you put in? If I think about how much time I put into my car (2.5 years of every other weekend), it is probably 1300-1500 hours plus - including original build and since. As well as the $8-10k out of pocket for the car, parts and materials.
I think the underlying issue being brought to light is if you are getting a shop to do this kind of build (full disassembly and full rebuild), it will be a money losing proposition.
I remember an episode of Chasing Classic Cars with Wayne Carini where he went to the house of a widow whose deceased husband had a mid '60s Jaguar E-type 100% disassembled, anally documented and logged. It just needed someone to follow the road map and put it back together. He did not purchase the very solid car car as he said the cost to reassemble would exceed the finished car value by 2 or 3 times, so it was not worth it.
The same goes for a complete shop built .... (insert your favorite car here), as unless there is some over the top customization that makes it extremely unique and unusual, the cost to build will always exceed the value. You may find a buyer that will recognize that by spending 6 figures (100-150k) they can still get a great deal over being the bank roll and spending 200-250k for a shop to build just for them. In either case, most of the time the car itself is still only worth 50-60k. If not, my home built car would be worth $150-200k instead of the likely $15-20k that I would get if I sold it and what it should be.
those that have done a complete build on your own car, how many hours have you put in? If I think about how much time I put into my car (2.5 years of every other weekend), it is probably 1300-1500 hours plus - including original build and since. As well as the $8-10k out of pocket for the car, parts and materials.
Totally agree with this comment, but in the big picture it is a minor cost. Definitely overpriced though.I still scratch my head over the $11K Cobra wheels.
The shop rate is low especially for Fab work but there's multiple double charges in the work descriptions. Why you don't pay a Fab shop to build a street car unless you got a open check book, you can build a crazy chassis car for that amount.. its a fox body, making one off parts is dumb when there's a market to cut cost with some sales.. I still think there's some odd things in the body work of the car from the pics either rust repair or fab work when you look at jam areas where they didnt spend a ton of time on finish work and so called 15\yr old paint job, there's definitely been some blend work in it, and not a single vin sticker on it.. its pretty much a one off build with a limited market and the groit guys are pushing the sale.Very good point. I tried to add up the number of hours I have into my car and it's just excessive. Definitely in the thousands of hours range as it took me 3 years or so to do my latest refresh (not working every day) If i threw their $95 hourly rate at 1000 hours that's 6-figures right there just in my labor cost not including parts
That doesn't even include time I spent researching, which I saw that shop did bill for when they had to research items to use.
Maybe their hourly rate is high (i have no idea never looked into shop build rate) but it still is a lot of time put into making a car like the photos you see. I still scratch my head over the $11K Cobra wheels.
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