battery relocation question and opinions needed

rio95 · Apr 24, 2011

So I relocated my battery a few years ago and get crap for not having a shut off switch eveytime I go to the track. I was thinking about adding a switch this winter but when I started looking into it I found that I may have not done the relocation properly in the first place.

I ran a wire and fuse from my alternator to the fuse box and the ran the positive battery lead from the trunk to the starter and retained the stock wire from the fuse box to the starter. I have read that I should have the alternator wire running all the way to the trunk to the positive battery lead rather than the fuse box. If this is true I would have to run another long wire the entire length of my car along side the 1/0 wire I have from the battery to the starter. I'm starting to think now that the entire concept of relocating the battery is kind of dumb and really not worth it. I like simple setups and running wires the entire length of the car and having to have a box and switch and the heavy wire actually adds total weight to the car. I've had some electrical issues with my current setup, which is another reason I'm tempted to just put the battery back in the stock location. It would be so much simpler and technically better from an electrical standpont and more robust.

I'm looking for some imput or suggestions. Thanks

Adam95GT · Apr 24, 2011

rio95 said:
So I relocated my battery a few years ago and get crap for not having a shut off switch eveytime I go to the track. I was thinking about adding a switch this winter but when I started looking into it I found that I may have not done the relocation properly in the first place.

I ran a wire and fuse from my alternator to the fuse box and the ran the positive battery lead from the trunk to the starter and retained the stock wire from the fuse box to the starter. I have read that I should have the alternator wire running all the way to the trunk to the positive battery lead rather than the fuse box. If this is true I would have to run another long wire the entire length of my car along side the 1/0 wire I have from the battery to the starter. I'm starting to think now that the entire concept of relocating the battery is kind of dumb and really not worth it. I like simple setups and running wires the entire length of the car and having to have a box and switch and the heavy wire actually adds total weight to the car. I've had some electrical issues with my current setup, which is another reason I'm tempted to just put the battery back in the stock location. It would be so much simpler and technically better from an electrical standpont and more robust.

I'm looking for some imput or suggestions. Thanks

No you need 2 positive cables from the rear. One for the normal battery functions and another for the alt (im using high quality audio 4 gauge with no problems). I split mine at the firewall for the starter. Look in to the flaming river push pull cut off. Its not about extra weight all the time... its about putting the weight where its needed. Putting it to the pass rear side offsets drivers weight.

robo · Apr 24, 2011

moving the battery to the trunk works well when setting up a car for competition.

it's not placed on the passenger side to offset the drivers weight. it is placed there because when the engine "winds up" the chassis, the passenger side "unloads". (watch a car leave the starting line at the drags and you will clearly see this effect) the extra weight of the battery placed on the passenger side helps to offset this.

if you are not racing or you do not need the extra room under the hood for other stuff, i would recommend returning the battery to its stock location.

if you do decide to leave it in the trunk you really need to properly wire it and provide the nhra mandated safety cutoff switch.

do a search as there are several threads here and on other sites that detail your wiring and switch mounting options.

good luck!

rio95 · May 3, 2011

I'm thinking ill just finish with remote mount since I'm half done anyways. Although I really don't like the idea of having to run yet 2 more large cable the entire length if the car. This is what I'm thinking though. From the hundreds of threads I've read this is a summary or average of all the information and different opinions I came across. Any thoughts on this setup? Id like to run the alt cable right to the battery post and eliminate the second inline fuse but I cannot find a nice post that would accept a 2 gauge and 1/0 cable. It'd b nice to run the alt wire to the other side of the switch so it would be dead when the switch is thrown but sounds like the ideal way to route the alt is right to the battery as it acts like a sink ir something. Not sure there us truth to that as most people don't seem too sure.

rio95 · May 3, 2011

I just talked to someone else about this and I'm really thinking that the alt wire needs to go right to the battery in order for the battery to absorb possible voltage spikes. I haven't seen a picture of one this way tho. I looked for some type of dual terminal but couldn't find one.

Adam95GT · May 3, 2011

Just a heads up... Jegs has a nice deal on a push pull right now... Just picked one up myself.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Unisteer/668/8070040/10002/-1

Either will work it just needs to kill the car.

You can get a terminal like your describing on eBay for lik3 $13

Search xscorpion part number BT0288G

rio95 · May 3, 2011

I'm sure that's equivalent to the summit so ill get one if the two. Have u started your install yet? I'm thinking bout running the rod between the tail light and bumper. Either that ir next to the license plate depending on which would be nicer to mount the switch.

As for the terminal that's almost perfect. In thinking ill try to run it right to the battery.

Adam95GT · May 3, 2011

rio95 said:
I'm sure that's equivalent to the summit so ill get one if the two. Have u started your install yet? I'm thinking bout running the rod between the tail light and bumper. Either that ir next to the license plate depending on which would be nicer to mount the switch.

As for the terminal that's almost perfect. In thinking ill try to run it right to the battery.

I got this far...

We did this on chris' car.. im just doing the same

rio95 · May 3, 2011

Yeah that looks great. I like the switch setup but doubt I'd fit it in my box (sounds horrible). I might test a sealed one though but still not sure it'd fit with an optima

Adam95GT · May 3, 2011

rio95 said:
Yeah that looks great. I like the switch setup but doubt I'd fit it in my box (sounds horrible). I might test a sealed one though but still not sure it'd fit with an optima

Im mounting mine outside. Ill take better pics.

rio95 · May 4, 2011

I just realized that if I ran the alt like I showed above, the alt fuse wouldn't really be necessary. If I ran it to the battery post then id prolly want that inline fuse. I said the opposite in my previous post.

Adam95GT · May 4, 2011

Jegs screwed up.... didnt send the right switch at all

rio95 · May 4, 2011

Damn that's sucks. I'm going to get that summit one. Prolly order it tonight then go spend a million dollars on more welding cable

rio95 · May 4, 2011

Man I hate undoing things that I sent time doing like this 4ga cable and fuse upgrade that was running from my alt to fuse box. Did u just run the other two small wires to the stick plug by the fuse block? I saw a thread where someone was saying they need to become part of the switch wiring. I don't see why though unless it just better discounts the voltage regulator when the switch is thrown.

cjones · May 5, 2011

i think 5.0 magazine has a pretty good article on it

Battery Relocation & Wiring - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine

and the electrical kit Catalog

that way the only time there is unfused power is at start-up.

rio95 · May 6, 2011

The article mostly refers to fox body which has a different starter setup as well as alternator, but there was some useful info in it.

That other website is interesting. I like the solenoid setup they have to make the starter wire not live the entire length of the car. The alt wire will still be live all the time though if I run it right to the battery like I'm expecting I'll do.

This is funny though and contradicts what some people are so adamant about in regards to the ground wires.

"The battery ground (NEG) is connected to the car body at the rear. And up front, another short length 1/0 cable connects from body to the engine. This system uses the car body for the long intermediate length of the NEG side of the system all the way to the engine. (It’s actually more efficient than routing a heavy gauge cable all the way forward to the engine.) And this system insures that the car body is well grounded–which is very important. Lights, fans, gauges, and many electrical system parts are connected to ground at the body metal. The accessory systems work very well with this system."

Also, I realized in my diagram above that I cannot have the fuse in the cable from the battery to the switch can I? Doesn't the starter pull way more than 150-175A meaning it would blow the fuse or is the fact that it is a "slow burn" mean that the few seconds of starting time won't blow the fuse? Either way, putting one fuse in just the alt wire seems sufficient to me.

cjones · May 7, 2011

the diff on the starter is the fox solenoid is on the fender and ours is on the starter. just jumper from where the positive cable connects to the starter to the starter solenoid terminal of the starter. take the wire that was on the starter solenoid and run it to the solenoid in the trunk.

for the alt wire. run fusible links at the battery. that way if the line shorts the links will blow and the line will be dead.

Also, I realized in my diagram above that I cannot have the fuse in the cable from the battery to the switch can I? Doesn't the starter pull way more than 150-175A meaning it would blow the fuse or is the fact that it is a "slow burn" mean that the few seconds of starting time won't blow the fuse?

correct, a good starter could draw up to and beyond 200A.

once i get the money i'll do a bat relocate.

64post · May 7, 2011

If you go back in the archives of this site you'll see some different examples of rear mounted batteries. I did mine with #2? or #4? single cable to the starter B+ pole, there, is where I also have the ALT. and power supply wire for the fuse box attached. The neg. cable goes through the trunk floor and bolts down to the right quad shock mount then ran a ground wire from the block to left engine bay/strut mount bolt to be sure engine has a good ground.

rio95 · May 8, 2011

cjones said:
the diff on the starter is the fox solenoid is on the fender and ours is on the starter. just jumper from where the positive cable connects to the starter to the starter solenoid terminal of the starter. take the wire that was on the starter solenoid and run it to the solenoid in the trunk.

for the alt wire. run fusible links at the battery. that way if the line shorts the links will blow and the line will be dead.

correct, a good starter could draw up to and beyond 200A.

once i get the money i'll do a bat relocate.

I guess moving the solenoid would be nice in a way but my fuse box wouldn't be getting any power at all times.

I'll just fuse the alt and leave the starter cable live like I've had it for years already

rio95 · May 14, 2011

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