Progress Thread Beating HeHateMe into shape

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Now I got to use 1 of my 2 favorite new tools. The hydraulic terminal crimper. I got my Pullapart freebie...about 20 ft of 4g cable, and ran it from the battery to the power post of the fuse block and crimped ends on. Happy Happy Joy Joy. (the other new favorite is the riv nut installer. I'm riv nutting this beotch up7
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And I can't help myself. I saw this and had to have itl. Holley Dual Sync. @Davedacarpainter I really have it!
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droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
1,002
842
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Cordova, TN
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It's like $50 on Amazon. It's bad a$$. If you don't pay me the money you owe me, I'll crush your thumb in this bad boy!

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I took the drop from my bracket cut and made a plate to mount my megafuse holders on. Which gets mounted under the solenoid with yep, you guessed it, RIV NUTS!
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You can see where this is going, hopefully. Megafuse on left goes to fuse box by way of fender and core support and other fender. The right Megafuse is for the alt.
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And the business end.
 
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droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Next I realized I needed a place to mount an MSD box. I checked around and Summit has this very cool and very sturdy universal mount for about $30. Wham Bam, Paypal and it's at my door.

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This is great. Except I want to mount it UNDER the fuse box partially. And I didn't take that in account mounting the fuse box and it's like 3/8" too low. No problem. Ditch those skyscraper MSD rubber mounts and use some nice O-rings.

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Look at me...stainless button head screws and stainless riv nuts. Damn am I good or what.

:nono: NO says the middle finger. If you look at the pic above, you see the cut out for the 4 gauge power cable. Equally spaced past that in the side are 2 mounting holes. There's maybe 3/8" between the MSD and the side of the bracket. Hmm, how does one get a screw in here? Even if I take the box back off and stick the screws in their holes, I still have to put the MSD back on, before mounting the bracket, because it only sits about 1/8" of the fender apron. SO I have 2 options. Take a 3mm allen wrench and cut the end off until it's about 3/16" long and take the box off, put the screws in, put the box back and try to get the screws started with the allen wrench. Or run bolts thru from the outside of the rivnut and put a nut on the inside of the inside of the bracket. I am thinking option 2 will be the path of least resistance.

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This turned out pretty fly for a white guy! It's a little out of square, but between the Harbor Freight grinder, and the Harbor Freigh cut off discs, that shred like they are made of paper, I felt good to get it this way without putting an eye out or losing a finger.
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Cordova, TN
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Oh yeah, MORE RIVUTS for the coil!

I mocked that MSD :poo: up! I realize now looking at the pics, I just mocked up the placement to mark the position of the rivnuts in the fender apron. I never mocked it up MOUNTED to the apron obviously!!!

:thinking::bang:

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I mocked up AND MOUNTED the fuse holder. And I had to redo both of those short cables. I didn't take into account the terminal length past the end of the wire. Used up all of those copper terminals....but Shazzam, a quick click on Amazon and more were here 2 days later without me breathing hard!!!



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So my next trick the past few days has been to start cleaning up the fender liners. I can't believe this came out this clean. With just some scrapers, lacquer thinner and when I ran out of that, some reducer that must have been in my garage 20 years. It cuts right thru that greasy crusty gunk. And I get high.
 
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droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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A little primer.
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A little paint....and this is where my Amazon train derailed. I ordered a 6 pack of semi gloss black. When, I started shaking, I saw gloss black. Oh I was pissed. I was like damn, they sent me the wrong stuff. So I ran in and looked at my order. I ordered 6 cans of GLOSS BLACK and the return window closed 2 days before. So I did what I do. I ordered semi flat clear.
:nice::nice:

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I've got a bit more to clean on the passenger side, but I got it mostly there and got rid of the rust. Again, I can't believe it came so clean!

I'll paint and clear this part and then maybe, just maybe, I'll fire up the solder station I bought off of AMAZON!!
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Rovos-Pretoria-Black-3.jpg



They make them...but evidently only in a 20. So I can quit looking or thinking about the wheels until this hooptie runs and drives again!
 

droopie85gt

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Dec 26, 2016
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@karthief Not done by a long shot. All the soldering and heat shrinking lies before me. When that's done and everything works, AND I have a diagram of it all, I'll pat myself on the back!!:cookie:
 
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Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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Wow.. you're thrashing on that thing nice work!
Now...would be a shame to not bore and stroked that 351w since it's goin in that nice clean and tucked engine bay...lol
Not that my bored and stroked 351w is..but I can live vicariously through others.
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Thanks! I have seriously thought about a stroker kit. It's already .060 over so it's already GROWN some. I am thinking this is the cheap down and dirty build. Get it running and cruising. Throw some quick paint, plastidip or even vinyl wrap on it and enjoy it. We want to either move or build a house in 2 or 3 years. Maybe once that is out of the way and I get my shop, I'll build a Dart 427 backed by a T56.
Who knows?
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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Ok, so it's a little difficult for you to see, but at TDC these cast slugs are about .034 down in the hole. I've got ideas on improving that, from free to $$$$.
First, take the pistons out and swap them side to side. That will move them up in the bore since piston pins are offset. It's an old school trick, but probably only worth about .010 to .015. This might result in some cold startup piston slap, but it's not a BMW It shakes, rattles and rolls as it is.
2nd, replace the pistons. I've seen a set on Ebay, Hyper with moly rings for about $200 that will move the piston up about .014 iirc.
3rd I could put those pistons in backwards...that should get it up in the .025 neighborhood.
4th have the block decked, with new pistons. I am not decking it for cast pistons.
5th Get a 393 or 408 stroker. Probably 393 (or whatever .060 over makes it) and reuse my rods, IF they are truck rods.

Really option 1 or 2 is pretty much my limit, especially if I want AFR heads. Maybe just 1 and some moly rings and a dingle ball hone job.

It's also amazing that ANYTHING in my garage becomes a shelf. I used that Romex last year about this time to put a 4 ft flourescent fixture in my attic. I bought the toolbox line at least 18 months ago and had that leftover. I was wondering where those gloves went!!
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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842
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Cordova, TN
Where is all of this going? I figure if I give you all of the plan, if I put it in writing, so to speak, I can follow thru.
351W swap with Comp XE282HR, RPM Air Gap, Holley HP TBI EFI, BBK long tubes, BBK catted x pipe, T5Z, 3.55 gears. I pretty much have everything for the engine minus balancer and flywheel if I were to reuse the Procomp heads. I am thinking of selling the 302 in it complete from intake to headers (PM if you want details) to fund the heads.

At some point I want to get rid of the digital gauges and go with either Holley analog efi gauges (daisy chain to the canbus) or something like the Dakota Digital HDX series.
I had a big box sub in the hatch that took a ton of room, but it was free. I put one of these rockville powered subs in my Avalanche and I am very impressed with it. Probably the same 8" one and mount in the spare tire well. Maybe get rid of the spare...maybe not.

Amazon productView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWM1JQI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


At some point I'd love to get the seats recovered in perforated leather similar to stock...gray with red piping.

Maximum motorsports torque arm and K Member.

Get body work done and get it repainted. My color choices are something like Gotta Have it Green or something in the dark metallic gray.
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
1,002
842
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Cordova, TN
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This Maverick! My older brother had a 70 Maverick that he swapped out the 6 for a 289 when he was about 16 or 17. My dad had a :poo: fit, but ended up helping him get it sorted. That's my first love. I'd swap my 85 and my Avalanche for this Maverick! I think I like that shade of green a lot better than the Gotta Have It.
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I like Charcoals, Silvers, and Grays too. Look, Cobra wheels!!
 
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Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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Why are you thinking of getting pistons up in the bore, trying to bump compression?
I can tell you that a basic 393w consist of a .030" 351w with 3.85" stroke crank , 302 pistons and
5.956" rods.
Not sure what you get with starting .060"...but I'm sure it will be fun.
 
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droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
1,002
842
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Cordova, TN
The general consensus seems to be once you get over .070 squish you increase likelihood of detonation. Since standard cheapie Felpro gaskets are only as thin as .039 that puts me at .074 or so sqush. I don't think the block is smooth enough to use a MLS gasket, and it's like $200 or something crazy to get some .024 gaskets. Plus a bump in compression. I think the heads I have are 62 or 64 cc. That puts me right at if barely 9:1. I'd like to be between 9.5 and 10:1. One of these days I'll take 2 pistons out and see what it actually gets swapping them. If it's not even worth it, I won't bother. I probably won't anyway. Just yank the heads off the 302 and slap this junk in and run it.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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OK got it. Yeah quench was a concern when building my 393W, my pistons were actually .008 out of the bore (decked block and heads) but with Felpro
9333pt1 and my combo iirc my quench was around .040.