Below Is An Email I Received From An Engine Reman Guy, I Scoff

I used to see guys waaay back in the late 80s running high 11s with worked over e7s,cams,ported intake. 300 fwhp isn't out of the question. Maybe a little optimistic but not by much

90lxwhite said:

Hm y'all think its bout right? I was thinkin it'd be a little over rated seeing reports of the fellas getting the ford racing crate w the gt40 crates and being disappointed with them and such. I just have time believing that atk making 300 hp w stock heads

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Well they are probably over rated like you think. I was just agreeing with revhead that with a little work e7s can flow a lot better than stock. They still suck lol. That engine probably only makes 260-275 fwhp with a carb setup

you talking wheel hp versus flywheel hp. a lot of the gt40p guys are in that 270-290rwhp range, which after driveline loss is (roughly) around 300-320 flywheel. with the right cam/intake and some porting, i wouldnt doubt that an e7 motor could get close to that.

The Ford Racing engines are rated using decades old "gross HP" ratings, if you can believe it. The factories haven't rated their production engines that way since the early 70's. Lop at least 15% off the stated HP of those engines for a more accurate, real-world, flywheel HP figure.

Ford Racing M-6007-X302

Naturally Aspirated. Built with forged pistons this Ford Racing 306ci crate engine makes 340 hp at 5500 RPM with a 9.0:1 compression ratio making it perfect for Naturally Aspirated applications. This Crate Engine includes Ford Racing Embossed Stamped Steel Chrome Plated Valve Covers for great under hood styling

Built Ford Tough. This Ford Racing crate engine is built with a 50in/oz imbalance rotating assembly and features forged Mahle pistons 4.030", aluminum Ford Racing "X" cylinder heads, and a E303 hydraulic roller camshaft with roller rocker arms. Additional features include remanufactured production steel connecting rods, 4-bolt crankshaft damper, double roller timing chain set, rear sump oil pan and oil pump.

2 Year/24,000 Mile Warranty. This crate engine carries Ford Racing's 2 year - 24,000 mile Warranty from the date of purchase for replacement or repair only.

Application. This 306 Cubic Inch Crate Engine is the prefect upgrade for any 1982 to 1995 V8 Mustangs. Can also be used in kit cars, street rods, Resto-Mods, and Fox-bodied cars.

This is Ford Racing offering
See below for the cylinder head specs

More Power. Increase the horsepower and torque output of your push rod 5.0L engine with the Ford Racing Turbo-Swirl GT40X Aluminum Head. These GT-40X heads feature a 64CC Combustion Chamber to greatly improve the airflow over the original GT-40 design allowing you to bolt on 65 more horsepower.

Improved Air Flow. These Ford Racing GT-40X heads have an intake port volume of 178cc allowing for an intake flow of approximately 240 cfm at .550" lift (at 28" of H20) and an exhaust port volume of 62cc allowing for an exhaust flow of approximately 170 cfm at .500" lift (at 28" of H20). Machined for 1.94" Intake and 1.54" exhaust valve diameters.

With the 24/24000 warranty, this is a good consideration.

I actually purchased this engine about 3 months ago. I've liked it so far. They claim to have made the 300hp with a Weiand Stealth Dual Plane Intake along with a 650cfm carb and a set of 1 5/8 dyno headers, the (basically) E303 cam and the bowl porting like you say. I have an AOD with the still stock 2.73 (i'll be upgrading soon) so the car launches like crap, but once it gets going it pulls strong.

Comes with a 3 yr unlimited mile warranty.. I doubt the 300 HP number in the real world application, but it seems to be stronger then the original engine - from what I can recall of it.

IMO,,, stick a $300 JY explorer motor in there with upgraded valve springs and a decent cam and you will be around 280hp for a whole lot less money. Those motors go 150-200k miles like clockwork,

90lxwhite said:

Yeah man? You think it's faster than the stock ho 302? I guess it'd be apples and oranges comparing a fresh motor to old 302 but what do ya think, is it kinda quick or is it a 15 sec 1/4 mi motor? What intake do you have on it? I too have an aod

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My current Mustang has not been to the track.. Either before or after the swap.. so I can't say for certain.

I have a convertible AOD.. obviously not the best combo for power..

If I had to guess, it's probably low 15's in my car... But it really is just a guess. I've heard of stock convertible/AOD's doing 16 second quarters... So it does feel quicker to me. Here is what I have in the car.

1989 Convertible LX w/AOD:
ATK - HP06 Engine, K&N Panel Filter, PRO-M Mass Air meter, 65 MM BBK Throttle Body, stock ported and polished intake, MAC H-Pipe w/cats, Flow Masters, Flex-A-Lite fan, and Under-Drive Pulleys.

mikestang63 said:

IMO,,, stick a $300 JY explorer motor in there with upgraded valve springs and a decent cam and you will be around 280hp for a whole lot less money. Those motors go 150-200k miles like clockwork,

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That was another option I looked at, I could have gotten the engine for $700, but the non-roller motor didn't make nearly as much HP and I wanted something I could enjoy and not have to worry about constantly replacing stuff/downtime.

BuckSatan said:

That was another option I looked at, I could have gotten the engine for $700, but the non-roller motor didn't make nearly as much HP and I wanted something I could enjoy and not have to worry about constantly replacing stuff/downtime.

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Uh... the 5.0 explorer motors are a roller, unless you were looking at a pre 1986 block. The non HO cam is still a roller cam, just a milder grind. $700 is still a bit high for that motor. You can get them all day long for under $500 at most JY. The pre 97 have the same EGR steup as your Mustang motor.

As far as ET, you're lucky if you can get mid 15's with that setup. I have a 90 LX vert with an AOD and the following mods

Explorer intake, heads, 70mm tb, 70mm MAF, headers, H pipe, flowpath mufflers, 3.73's, E fan, U/D pulleys, and some other bolt ons. I bet my car is a mid to low 14 second car and Im probably around 260hp. Next is either a shift kit or a silverfox valve body.

First thing you need is 3.73's and a shift kit to wake up that AOD.

mikestang63 said:

Uh... the 5.0 explorer motors are a roller, unless you were looking at a pre 1986 block. The non HO cam is still a roller cam, just a milder grind. $700 is still a bit high for that motor. You can get them all day long for under $500 at most JY. The pre 97 have the same EGR steup as your Mustang motor.

As far as ET, you're lucky if you can get mid 15's with that setup. I have a 90 LX vert with an AOD and the following mods

Explorer intake, heads, 70mm tb, 70mm MAF, headers, H pipe, flowpath mufflers, 3.73's, E fan, U/D pulleys, and some other bolt ons. I bet my car is a mid to low 14 second car and Im probably around 260hp. Next is either a shift kit or a silverfox valve body.

First thing you need is 3.73's and a shift kit to wake up that AOD.

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Yes, gears are definitely the next thing I'll do. Actually was getting ready to order them once I get my summit bucks for ordering the K&N filter through them (my old one was all dry rotted)..

You recommend 3.73s over 4.11? I was going back and forth between the two? What's your RPM at like 80MPH? With the 2.73's I'm at 2k. are the 3.73's still under 3,000?

90lxwhite said:

With my kind of $ I don't have expectations of being super fast I just don't want to be comically slow either. 14-16 sec 1/4

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my old 89 T5 GT, with mods similar to this one and 3.73 used to run 14.2... With a 90LX AOD, I suspect you would be high 14 low 15s with this motor.. Again, just my best guess.

Some guy posted a youtube video after he had the ATK engine installed. You can hear the lope when he gets near the exhaust
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK8U3iGZ76w

The guy doesn't seem to know what he's really talking about, but he claims he had it at the dyno, where it did 224 at the wheels. That seems like it's more then the car would have done with the original engine - even taking into account his mods that were already done - someone else can chime in for certain, though.