best oil?

jcp123 · Jan 27, 2004

Gearbanger 101 said:
Whatevers on sale. Save what you're spending on synthetics on something that you're actually going to notice over time. Any horsepower you gain from useing synthetic oil is going to be in your head to try to justify what you just spent on that oil change.

also saves on gas and engine wear. i don't think one is necessarily better than the other, but i do think the costs even out in the end. and i definitely noticed some more torque, no doubt

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 27, 2004

jcp123 said:
also saves on gas and engine wear. i don't think one is necessarily better than the other, but i do think the costs even out in the end. and i definitely noticed some more torque, no doubt

I’m not calling you a liar by any means, but I seriously think than any performance advantage you felt after changing your oil was in your head.

As for the gas mileage and engine wear…..well….how much would you say it increased your fuel economy? A fraction of a mile to the gallon at best? How about wear? I’ve seen 350,000km engines that have run nothing but conventional mineral oil their entire life. That’s a pretty good life as far as I’m concerned. How much farther do you think the engine’s going to go if it’s run with synthetic? Another 35,000-50,000….maybe? Now, take the cost difference of roughly double the price of a regular oil change and add all that up over the life of the engine…..wow, that’s a lot of money that could have been used for a lot better things than snake oil. I’m not saying the synthetics are a bad idea (although it has be proven that synthetic oils will dry and deteriorate silicone and rubber seals over time), I’m just saying that it’s not the most cost effective “mod” one would do to their car and the cost definitely does NOT balance out in the end!

ECU5.0 · Jan 27, 2004

amsoil makes an oil that lasts 35k miles...dont know how much it is...and you can get their special bypass oil filter for 150 bucks that triples the oil life or something like that...our dealer runs 5/30 amsoil in his dodge diesel and hasnt changed the oil for like 50k and it still runs awesome and the oil is clean

nito88stang · Jan 28, 2004

Put it this way you're paying double the price for synthetic oil. Is it doubling the life of your car? If not then its not worth it, I'd feel ripped.

ECU5.0 · Jan 28, 2004

no youre not doubling the life of your care but you are doubling the life of the oil. unless you get amsoil which is the same price as mobil one and lasts 7500

jcp123 · Jan 28, 2004

well, i laid some rubber coming up the driveway when i blipped the throttle. i never used to do that, not with a c4 slushbox/2.73 posi's/245 tires. and overall it feels a little more responsive, mostly right from off-idle to 2000. so, it seems torquier to me, alright

i only changed my oil on sunday, so no report yet on the gas mileage, but i have heard ppl saying they're getting 10 or 20 miles extra on a tank?? i have no clue as to the validity of this, so don't take my word for it

i will say this, though: our engines, unless you've got a power adder or have had it seriously built, probably doesn't take FULL advantage of the synthetics...

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 28, 2004

ECU5.0 said:
...our dealer runs 5/30 amsoil in his dodge diesel and hasnt changed the oil for like 50k and it still runs awesome and the oil is clean

I know tons of people who run their oil changes thousands of kilometers over the limit. Sure a low mileage vehicle is still going to run well, why wouldn't it. Besides, diesels run forever regardless since half of their fuel is raw oil…LOL. But I don't care what I'm running; it's getting a change every 5000-8000km, regardless of their claim. It’s gonna get dirty and polluted with condensation and hydrocarbons just like any other oil.

ECU5.0 · Jan 28, 2004

Gearbanger 101 said:
I know tons of people who run their oil changes thousands of kilometers over the limit. Sure a low mileage vehicle is still going to run well, why wouldn't it. Besides, diesels run forever regardless since half of their fuel is raw oil…LOL. But I don't care what I'm running; it's getting a change every 5000-8000km, regardless of their claim. It’s gonna get dirty and polluted with condensation and hydrocarbons just like any other oil.

thats the god honest truth. i used to change my oil when i worked for jiffy lube about every 1500 miles...for free....hehe...kept the engine clean and it just made me happy to see clean oil in my car...oh well

wishihadastang125 · Jan 28, 2004

doesnt synthetic just have detergents in it

CPB00GT · Jan 28, 2004

Oil seems to be very subjective to personal tastes. I always used mobil 1 in my 2000 gt, and have no complaints. My new f-150 calls for motorcraft synthetic blend and thats what I use. I also just put it in my 5.0. The price is right and I think it is the way to go with my 5.0. You won't go wrong with the motorcraft synthetic blend and motorcraft filter, good compromise!

rx7speed · Jan 28, 2004

Gearbanger 101 said:
Whatevers on sale. Save what you're spending on synthetics on something that you're actually going to notice over time. Any horsepower you gain from useing synthetic oil is going to be in your head to try to justify what you just spent on that oil change.

I swear that there has been dyno's showing ginas between synthetic vs dino

although it has be proven that synthetic oils will dry and deteriorate silicone and rubber seals over time

thought it wasn't from drying out the seals but rather already old seals having all the sludge or other grime away from the seal and then going out through the leak

so if that was the case the seal is already gone just being plugged up by stuff
and synthetic is doing it's job by cleaning it all away

jcp

i will say this, though: our engines, unless you've got a power adder or have had it seriously built, probably doesn't take FULL advantage of the synthetics...

when you put just a set of gears in there or just a cam or just an exhuast or even just a set of heads
do you think you are taking full advantage of them either?

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 28, 2004

Well, I've seen a couple of dyno sheet's too that do back up your claim, but they were done by the same particular company that just happened to be selling that brand of synthetic oil....hmmmm. Either way, at best the only horsepower I think one would see is going to show up on a dyno print out. It's like switching to a set of performance spark plugs. Hardly worth turning the wrench for!

Synthetics actually do have chemical properties in their formula that will "dry out" seals and gaskets so to speak. It more or less hardens the material and makes them less pliable over time. Synthetics don't contain detergents like other oils (Castrol GTX is apparently bad for containing harsh detergents), so it's not like it's doing a make shift engine flush when you use it. It's just that it's viscosity properties are so much higher than standard oil, that it seems to work it's way into every nook and cranny. That’s one of the main reasons mechanics don’t recommend their usage during engine assembly, because of the problems with false torque readings. Like I said, I don't think synthetics are necessarily a bad idea, just not an extremely cost effective one.

stangman8825 · Jan 28, 2004

To each his own but I run valvoline maxlife 10w-30 because it's free at my work...but I won't run anything but a K&N Performance Gold Oil filter...I swear by them...oil comes out as clean as it went in

gearheadboy · Jan 28, 2004

A couple more things to add.
One is I was told that the "leaking nature" of synthetic is due to its ability to flow through smaller areas..kinda like it is thinner, despite the viscosity.
Also your "seat of the pants feel" may be a reality in my opinion, due to the ability of synthetic to act thinner. I gained .3 in the 1/4 merely by changing from SAE 30 Kendall GT1 "the green stuff" to running the "free" 10w30 quakersludge from work. It's all about viscosity and rotating friction. It also lost me 15-20 psi on the old autometer at idle.

jcp123 · Jan 28, 2004

rx7: i don't know...but...good point i guess. don't get me wrong, i like synthetic...i'm just saying that either way, i think it's just as smart to use dino as synthetic. i think i'll just use synthetic from now on.

and i think the general consensus here is that you can't really go wrong, short of using your old used stuff ...so go ahead and use whatever works for you

ECU5.0 · Jan 28, 2004

i usually use valvoline 10w40 and a motorcraft filter....but ive also got a filter magnet that cost me like 70 bucks. got it for my ranger which had the same diameter filter so i just swapped it over when i sold the ranger. it keeps the oil pretty clean of metal considering it traps anything metal that is in the oil down to like 2 microns....about the size of a red blood cell. its hard as crap to get off though

ECU5.0 · Jan 28, 2004

gearheadboy said:
A couple more things to add.
One is I was told that the "leaking nature" of synthetic is due to its ability to flow through smaller areas..kinda like it is thinner, despite the viscosity.
Also your "seat of the pants feel" may be a reality in my opinion, due to the ability of synthetic to act thinner. I gained .3 in the 1/4 merely by changing from SAE 30 Kendall GT1 "the green stuff" to running the "free" 10w30 quakersludge from work. It's all about viscosity and rotating friction. It also lost me 15-20 psi on the old autometer at idle.

a little off subject but what did that cobragt347 guy do to you....i just bought a cobra intake off some guy on here and am worrying that he wont ship it...but well see...it was supposed to ship today

gt50stang89 · Jan 28, 2004

I use Castrol part synthetic, still looks fresh after 2500 miles. Used to use a Fram filter but always heard a lot of noise when starting up, the K&N gold fixed that.

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