propellerhead said:Street radials only need a quick 1 or 2 second spin to clean them off.
If I'm hooking that day, I flash stall it. Meaning, I stomp on the pedal from an idle. I got my best ETs that way. If I'm not hooking, then I brake stall it. Meaning, I hold the brake, bring the RPM to about 1500-1800, then release the brake and either floor it or ease into it depending on how many ricers drug water onto the track.
Agree 100% Anyone who does long smoky burn outs exceeding that, is just going to end up replacing their tires earlier.......and hurting their 60ft in the process.propellerhead said:Street radials only need a quick 1 or 2 second spin to clean them off.
I've got a larger crank pulley to be installed, then that's about it. Just drive and race the car and enjoy it.Toms_2003_Stang said:Since you are now in the 9 second club Jim, whats next?
I've got a special order 8.0 inch SFI certified pulley from Innovators West. Moving up from a 7.5 inch Innovators West. They are both 8-rib. I could have gone with a KB 8.5 inch, but it is not SFI certified. I already have an electric water pump and 3 bolt tensioner.Gearbanger 101 said:How large were you planning to go with your crank pulley Jim? I was going in the same direction a while back and figured out that about 8 1/2" was the max diameter without having to worry about it interfering with the water pump pulley. In the end, I decided to just convert to the 8-rib pulleys instead (which I'm sure you already have, if not a cogged system) but had I gone with a more aggressive blower and belt traction was becoming a problem, the larger pulley would have been in the cards.
If you haven't found a place to buy (or to build) your pulley yet, I've got a few friends that have had them made here and am told they're an A1 design and great company to deal with.
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