Black Jack: Road trip! Home from the eclipse in Ohio. 24mpg!!

[AeroCoupe]

What you have ordered includes all five braided lines needed for the brakes and the 3-2 adapter kit is also included to adapt the newer two port MC to the stock lines which are for a three port MC.

What you may want to consider are pre-bent hard lines from the outlets of the rear center braided line to the inlets of the rear caliper braided soft lines.

MM Rear Disc Brake Hard Lines, 1986-93 with SN95 calipers

I just made my own out of the ones that I removed from a salvage yard V6 SN95 rear end. They were plentiful back when I did my conversion.

 

[Mustang5L5]

The 99-04 calipers are 40mm (or 40.5mm depending on source. The change was made in 1999. After that, nobody was making the 38mm versions really, you can find a used set most likely but for the most part tooling was changed to the 40mm and that’s all that’s been cast ever since. They exterior is physically different so you can ID them by the cooling fin ribbing.

94-98 on left, 99-04 on right.



I ran the 40mm versions with 93 cobra master cylinder and booster. I thought it was a great setup and TBH wish I stuck with it over the hydroboost.

If you are adamant about not swapping the booster, then I would run the 94-95 cobra MC. The 1/16” reduction will make pedal effort less, but your stroke will be longer. You are esssentially using hydraulic advantage to compensate for the lack of assist.

The 3-2 conversion setup is different between the 94-95 cobra and 93 cobra MC, so that needs to be factored into cost.

Personally I’m a buy once, cry once kinda guy, and the pain of the booster install is a sort of rite of passage for all 5-lug cobra swap brothers

I’d do the 93 cobra MC and booster if you do receive the 40mm units, which I would bet you will.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Called back to ask, and he said, "Do you see them on factory cars?" I thought that was a dumb question. I'm autocrossing and tracking, and I want the ability to adjust the rear brakes to the tires I'm running and track conditions (different when wet). Plus, I've appreciated them on my other cars. So, that's on order, too.

There is one on factory cars. It’s not adjustable but that little rod in the front adjusts knee-point.

Most pull it out and install the adjustable one. It adjusts knee-point. TBH, once folks start shifting weight and adding fat tires and such, the stock weight distribution is tossed out the window. Every car will adjust differently. Don’t go crazy chasing a perfect setting. Most folks go 3 turns in and adjust from there. I would go conservative and dial in a little less rear knee-point. The front brakes can stop the car easily on their own under most street conditions. You will discover that under normal driving conditions you are barely touching the pedal to stop.

 

[FastDriver]

Ordered the 94-95 Cobra MC with 93 Cobra booster. Will that be too touchy? I'll try to reach out to LMR to swap me back to the 93 Cobra MC.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I run the 1-1/16” 94/95 GT MC and cobra booster on the Coupe and it’s fine. Run the 93 Cobra MC and booster on the T-Bird and cannot tell a bit of difference.

Should have added that both cars have the same version of Cobra brakes front and back. T-Bird weighs about 300 lbs more than the Coupe.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I actually did the 94-95 GT MC with cobra booster when I originally set my car up and did not like it. Swapped to the 93 cobra MC and preferred that instead.


Brake feel is subjective. Everyone is going to have different preferences on feel. I actually like the feel over overboosted brakes. I’m not saying the 93 cobra MC feels that way, but I wouldn’t mind if they were more grabby.

 

[FastDriver]

Well, if I can't swap the MC from the 94/95 Cobra to the 93 before LMR ships, would you order the 93 Cobra and send back the other one, or let it ride? The ratio comes in at just less than 17.

 

[Mustang5L5]

oh man. Too much pressure.

Put it this way. If you were to initially install a 93 cobra MC and 3-2 kit, and later decide you wants to go down to the 94-95 cobra MC and 3-2, you will have an easier time (in my opinion) selling the used 93 cobra MC and 3-2 kit vs selling a 94/95 cobra MC and 3-2 kit.

 

[bird_dog0347]

I'm concerned about the MM lines you just mentioned. If you don't see them above, I didn't order them. The master above has what looks like 3 lines (3-2 kit?) that it comes with. The Front kit mentions 2 MM line kits. The rear kit includes a bullet point about lines and another MM center line. If you're saying there's another I need to have, a link would be much appreciated.

Here you go...

https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMBAK8/87-93-Mustang-Brake-Lines-For-94-95-Cobra-Master-Cylinder

 

[FastDriver]

oh man. Too much pressure.

Put it this way. If you were to initially install a 93 cobra MC and 3-2 kit, and later decide you wants to go down to the 94-95 cobra MC and 3-2, you will have an easier time (in my opinion) selling the used 93 cobra MC and 3-2 kit vs selling a 94/95 cobra MC and 3-2 kit.

Rgr. I'll get the 93 MC on order. And either cancel the 94-95, send it back, sell it on BookFace, or keep it on the shelf if it matches an MC in one of my other cars.

 

[FastDriver]

I'd like to point out, prior to any judgement, that I bought this car back for $3,800 just under 1 year ago. Many hours went into this interior, and it's a really nice place to be, now. Especially for a daily driver.

About a month ago, I was going back and forth on whether to go with Corbeau GTS II seats or a pair of Recaros, similar to the Recaro SE ones in Grover. The Corbeaus were about 1/2 the price of the Recaros. A couple weeks ago, I came across a listing in the other forum that shall not be named for the Corbeaus with Brackets & rear seat covers BNIB. Paid $851 to my door! From Summit, they'd cost $959 for the seats, $139*2 for the brackets. Didn't care too much for covers, but that would've been another $200. Would have been $1,437 + tax + shipping (if any). So, that made my decision a cinch.

Oops, just realized I forgot to pull the belt buckles back through.

 

[RaggedGT]

Those Corbeau’s are sweet

 

[Mustang5L5]

I regret selling my OeM black seats….heavily.

If I still had them I’d run them.

 

[FastDriver]

Want em?

 

[FastDriver]

After a trip to the gym, I came to the conclusion that these seats weren't going to work as-is. They're taller than stock by an inch or two, and Corbeau's seat track extenders also puts you up another inch or so. I could not sit comfortably upright without my head touching the headliner. I've taken the extenders out and am lower in the car, but, of course, I don't have the legroom to fully extend with my 36" inseam.

Corbeau makes a low-profile seat bracket, but it's supposedly only 1/2" shorter. So, I don't think that'll do it. Beyond being comfortable, I need enough headroom for a helmet on autocross & track days.

I hope the Recaros for Snake Pit work out a little better.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I used my stock seat tracks with some 1/4” thick x 1-1/2” wide aluminum bar. Laid the flat bar perpendicular to the tracks, marked and drilled the stock mounting holes on the bar and attached it to the tracks. Installed the tracks, positioned the seats on them, and marked them. Drilled holes in the flat bar and used cap screws to attach the seats.

Not saying this will get you any lower but it may work.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Want em?

Are they the 90-91 style with pull out leg extensions?

I do, but the timing is . If you don’t offload them and still have them in a month or so let me know.

 

[rednotch]

I regret selling my OeM black seats….heavily.

If I still had them I’d run them.

I will never under stand the black kick people have on these cars... My 93 is oem black tweed I would rather have opal, the black shows every little thing and i hate that, especially old water spots on the plastics or vinyl. I even swapped the front seats out with a spare grey set I had just so they don't get worn. I know ppl will pay stupid money for it so I'll probably sell all the back interior off from that one.


As for the Black Corbeau's seats, in my experiance those will sun fade horribly if you don't keep it garaged or covered, that fabric bleaches out on them, other then that there not bad unless your on the taller side as you found out.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I will never under stand the black kick people have on these cars... My 93 is oem black tweed I would rather have opal, the black shows every little thing and i hate that, especially old water spots on the plastics or vinyl. I even swapped the front seats out with a spare grey set I had just so they don't get worn. I know ppl will pay stupid money for it so I'll probably sell all the back interior off from that one

I agree with you. I think I’ve vented the same thing a few times here. Black photographs well, but it shows every spec of dirt and dust and gets hot as hell in the sun. I actually love a clean grey interior, especially the 87-89 tweed.

When I was looking to ditch my red interior, I just happened to come across a parts car with black so that’s what I got my hands on. If that car had grey interior, that’s what I would have today. I have no desire to swap interior at this point so sticking with what I got.

 

[FastDriver]

My favorite color is probably the 87-89 grey that's darker than the grey in the later years, & black is a close 2nd. There's no way around a hot interior in the places I've lived, except getting window deflectors to keep the rain out and cracking the windows. Plus, I hated the discoloration in my other '91's grey over time. The way the handle is a different color that the rest of the glove box, for example.

Regarding sun fade, Black Jack is going to spend some time in the Sun when I'm at work, but will be garaged, otherwise. Further, the tint is reasonably dark. So, hopefully that helps the seats last a while. Couldn't pass up the deal, need something to keep me in place at the autocross, and I don't share everyone's love for the original seats. They're comfy/fine, but aesthetically, I don't have any attachment.

I used my stock seat tracks with some 1/4” thick x 1-1/2” wide aluminum bar. Laid the flat bar perpendicular to the tracks, marked and drilled the stock mounting holes on the bar and attached it to the tracks. Installed the tracks, positioned the seats on them, and marked them. Drilled holes in the flat bar and used cap screws to attach the seats.

Not saying this will get you any lower but it may work.

Now, without the extender, I'm low enough, again. Are you saying that you fabricated a seat extender using aluminum bar? i.e. you mounted the seats back a couple inches?