Block for a 393 (maybe a 408) stroker (roller cam)

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BrownPSU78

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Sep 9, 2004

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Dec 19, 2005

#1

• Dec 19, 2005

• #1

I will be using a roller cam..
I am looking at the block from an 89 f-350

Does anyone know if this one will do....
I want the roller cam to work...i do not want to modify...
Thank you in advance....
--Brown

 

dennis112

15 Year Member

May 15, 2005

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Amish Wonderland of Central PA.

Dec 19, 2005

#2

• Dec 19, 2005

• #2

BrownPSU78 said:

I will be using a roller cam..
I am looking at the block from an 89 f-350

Does anyone know if this one will do....
I want the roller cam to work...i do not want to modify...
Thank you in advance....
--Brown

Click to expand...

Will work if you buy "link-bar" type lifters from someplace like Crane. Expect to spend $400 or more for the lifters.

 

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D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000

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Dec 19, 2005

#3

• Dec 19, 2005

• #3

If you want a roller 351W block, look for casting # F4TE. These are found in 94-up pickups and vans. My95 E150 has this one.

 

rbohm

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tucson,az

Dec 20, 2005

#4

• Dec 20, 2005

• #4

D.Hearne said:

If you want a roller 351W block, look for casting # F4TE. These are found in 94-up pickups and vans. My95 E150 has this one.

Click to expand...

these are the blocks to use, otherwise you need a cam with a smaller base circle. comp cams, crane, crower, and iskendarian all make retrofit roller cams for the non roller blocks.

 

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steel1212

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Jun 24, 2004

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Frankfort, Ky

Dec 20, 2005

#5

• Dec 20, 2005

• #5

With the link bars you don't need a small base circle cam do you? Also I think crower has a set for under 300$ link bars that is.

 

dennis112

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May 15, 2005

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Amish Wonderland of Central PA.

Dec 20, 2005

#6

• Dec 20, 2005

• #6

steel1212 said:

With the link bars you don't need a small base circle cam do you? Also I think crower has a set for under 300$ link bars that is.

Click to expand...

Correct--you won't need the smaller base circle cam if you use link bars.

 

rbohm

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tucson,az

Dec 20, 2005

#7

• Dec 20, 2005

• #7

wrong, with a non roller block you need the smaller base circle cam or shorter lifters, and the link bar lifters are the same hieght as stock. the reason is that the lifter cutout will pop out of the lifter bore causeing a drop in oil pressure. the smaller base circle cam prevents this. you can also go to a solid roller lifter as well to prevent it as those lifters are shorter, but if you want the hydraulic roller lifters, you need a roller cam block or a smaller base circle cam.

 

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BrownPSU78

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Dec 20, 2005

#8

• Dec 20, 2005

• #8

thank you...so i am looking at 94 and up f4te casting

 

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BrownPSU78

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Dec 20, 2005

#9

• Dec 20, 2005

• #9

How much should i be looing to spend on the block..I have no idea what agood price is..
--Brown

 

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D.Hearne

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Dec 20, 2005

#10

• Dec 20, 2005

• #10

BrownPSU78 said:

How much should i be looing to spend on the block..I have no idea what agood price is..
--Brown

Click to expand...

Well, in figuring what to pay for one, add up the extra cost in going roller with a non roller block. I don't have the exact figure, but to do a roller in a non roller block will set you back around 5-600 bucks. You're need to compare the cost of the cam, lifters, retainer hardware ( if any) plus new pushrods ( if you already have the non roller ones, you'll definately need new ones. With a roller block, you can use the stock stuff plus have a bigger choice in cam grinds that are far cheaper. Look in the classifieds here on SN, you'll find quite a few used ones to choose from, that's the one thing about roller cams, they're reusable and don't wear like flat tappets do. Plus there's always a few new grinds from those guys who buy stuff, then change their minds. I bought a new Z303 there for $115 shipped for my 331.

 

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86bluecobra

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Dec 20, 2004

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Dec 20, 2005

#11

• Dec 20, 2005

• #11

i think a roller block should cost no more then 300 bucks. but then you should go get it cleaned up magna fluxed and all that jazz.

 

RajunCajun

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Nov 26, 2003

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Dec 20, 2005

#12

• Dec 20, 2005

• #12

payed 184.93 from junkyard but when I pulled it and discovered after taking the heads off in the junkyard thatit had just been rebuilt and wasnt even any carbon buildup yet. I didnt tell them that either. They only wanted 265 here for a runner so I can imagine there are quite a few f250s you could pull one out of.

 

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HHStang

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Dec 20, 2005

#13

• Dec 20, 2005

• #13

BrownPSU78 are you PSU grad? I'm class of 82.

 

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BrownPSU78

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Dec 20, 2005

#14

• Dec 20, 2005

• #14

I am a sophmore there.

 

dennis112

15 Year Member

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Dec 21, 2005

#15

• Dec 21, 2005

• #15

rbohm said:

wrong, with a non roller block you need the smaller base circle cam or shorter lifters, and the link bar lifters are the same hieght as stock. the reason is that the lifter cutout will pop out of the lifter bore causeing a drop in oil pressure. the smaller base circle cam prevents this. you can also go to a solid roller lifter as well to prevent it as those lifters are shorter, but if you want the hydraulic roller lifters, you need a roller cam block or a smaller base circle cam.

Click to expand...

I maintain my original statement is correct in that the Crane (and the rebadged FMS) HR Tie-Bar lifters work fine in an early block with a normal base cam. No modifications are needed, except for maybe a little lifter bore honing and the normal pushrod length issues. Check out this link were people much smarter than me discuss it:

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30333

 

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HHStang

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Coastal SC

Dec 22, 2005

#16

• Dec 22, 2005

• #16

man I'm old.

BrownPSU78 said:

I am a sophmore there.

Click to expand...

Why the 78?

 

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mtbdoc

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Nov 2, 2003

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Dec 22, 2005

#17

• Dec 22, 2005

• #17

Two thoughts: as far as the block, I really wonder if it doesn't work better to just buy a pre-machined and built short block from a reputable builder. All of the time, effort, machine work, etc... I am contemplating doing this for my 2+2. What I would REALLY like to do is suck it up and buy the World Man-o-War 460 small block. That would ROCK in a classic Mustang!

Second: graduating in '82 is not old. Graduating in '78 is OLD!

 

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BrownPSU78

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Dec 22, 2005

#18

• Dec 22, 2005

• #18

the 78 was my highschool football number

 

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HHStang

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Coastal SC

Dec 23, 2005

#19

• Dec 23, 2005

• #19

gotcha.

 

B

BrownPSU78

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Dec 23, 2005

#20

• Dec 23, 2005

• #20

I am heading out the door...to buy the 351 out of from a 96 250 i think...just lettin yall know..il post more info when i get back...
--Brown