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Body panel alignment

  • Thread starter Thread starter 65fastbackresto
  • Start date Start date Sep 16, 2011

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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39
AR
Sep 16, 2011
#1
  • Sep 16, 2011
  • #1
Car is back from body shop with pretty straight quarters and rockers. I bought new (repop) fenders and doors. I`m on my first polyester primer coat and need to align my doors and fenders so I can sand it correctly. Anyone know a good source or have any information on how to align the doors and fenders?

So far I have nothing but a headache figuring it out.
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 16, 2011
#2
  • Sep 16, 2011
  • #2
The first thing you need is a transmission jack like they sell at Harbor Freight that uses a 1/2" drive ratchet. It is the easiest way to start lining up your doors. You have to play with the doors until you get the gaps as close as you can to match both sides than line up your fenders. You will also have to install the hood and front valance to get the fender gaps right.

Good luck it is time consuming lining up sheet metal.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Sep 16, 2011
#3
  • Sep 16, 2011
  • #3
Luckily...

The only thing free on this project is my time...
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Sep 16, 2011
#4
  • Sep 16, 2011
  • #4
If I can offer some advice, here it is: starting with all the sheetmetal removed, install the doors on the bare body. Align the rear edge and the lower edge as close as you can and as even as you can. I use a paint stirring stick as a guage to set my gaps, it should drag on both edges when you stick it in the gap. Open and close it several times, making sure to look all around for signs of hitting, scraping or binding. Once you're satisfied that it's as good as it can be, move on to the hood. Install the hood (no fenders yet) and align it to the cowl. Get it even side-to-side and across the back. I set the hood rearward as far as possible so it will open and not hit the cowl. Put two layers of masking tape on to simulate the thickness of paint and make sure it won't scrape. Next do the fenders. Align the fenders to fit the doors and the hood. I use a straight edge on the doors as well as run a couple feet of masking tape along the peaks of the body lines to help you see that they are as good as possible. Nearly every stock Mustang I have ever seen has the top of the fender too high where it meets the door. I typically grind the top rear fender bracket down a bit to line it up better. It takes lots of patience and a good eye, and it never hurts to have a buddy with some patience to help out. Good luck!
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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Sep 17, 2011
#5
  • Sep 17, 2011
  • #5
All I can say at this point is WOW this is frustrating.

This is about one of the most frustrating thing I`ve ever done. I did one door today, it looks great until I install the post the door hangs onto with the latch, it raises the tail end of the door when i shut it, and I cant get the post any lower, even after round filing the door post pocket. I even tried leaving the post kinda loose, closing the door on it, holding it from the back while I reopen the door, and tighten it down, still no good. Yes I know it moves but it cant seem to find a happy spot with the latch. I can even close it with one finger and no binding like a new car.

I ground down the top rear brackett of the fender a little bit and started on it, and have it hanging, but its getting pretty late so I`m calling it a day.

Anyone with more advice I would hghly appreciate it, and I want to thank zookeeper and rusty 428cj for their advice, as its already been helpfull.
 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Sep 17, 2011
#6
  • Sep 17, 2011
  • #6
this site helped me....he has a video on how to align the door....which is what you need to align first, the fenders are pretty easy once you get that door right.

Mustang How To : Average Joe Restoration
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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Sep 18, 2011
#7
  • Sep 18, 2011
  • #7
Popsicle sticks...

Now I`m gonna have to eat a bunch of popsicles before I install this door...oh well, it`ll be worth it in the end if I can still fit in the car.LOL

Good link Robbz28, thanks, I thought I had it bookmarked from the last time you gave it to me, but I couldn`t find it.
 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Sep 18, 2011
#8
  • Sep 18, 2011
  • #8
And the problem with eating a bunch of popsicles is?? i used a paint stirrer, its about the right gap.
 
6

66restobuild

New Member
Aug 6, 2011
2
0
0
Langley, BC
Sep 27, 2011
#9
  • Sep 27, 2011
  • #9
zookeeper,

Do you line up your doors with/without the door weather seals on? If do you without, do you find they alter the fitment once installed? Just curious because I'm having trouble lining up the bottom of the door by 1/4 panel with the weather seals on. They stick out quite a bit, even with the door having a big gap at the bottom.

Thanks.
Nate
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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Sep 28, 2011
#10
  • Sep 28, 2011
  • #10
I`m still stuck on this one

I got the weatherstriping in a few days ago, looks like I`ll install those now....hehehe Anyway its like the door catchs on both sides of my car are too far out, I can`t get them far back enough into the car for them to pull the door in when it catches. I`m starting to wonder if there may be a slight difference in the door latchs between 65 and 66 cars. These repop doors say from 64 to 66 on them, but its funny my door hinge bolts from my old doors will not fit in these new doors, so there are at least some differences.
 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Sep 28, 2011
#11
  • Sep 28, 2011
  • #11
Have you tried loosening the striker and bumping it with a block of wood or rubber hammer?
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
7
39
AR
Sep 28, 2011
#12
  • Sep 28, 2011
  • #12
I hate the striker

I have beat on it, I have enlarged the hole that it sits in to get more room to move it around, and nothing I do to it will make it right.

Get this, I can remove the striker, get the door to fit perfect, put the striker in, and not matter where I put it it pulls the door away from where it needs to be. I even tried closing the door on the striker while it was lose, and tightning it down from inside....same result. Makes me think the parts are a little off or something.

I just looked up the part on CJ Pony parts though, and I don`t have the shim that goes with this part, could that be part of the problem?
 
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