Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

I am concerned he hit the battery side of the fuse. That could have pulled a lot of power from the battery, and strange stuff can happen with a short.

In a 65 A body, the lighter socket center contact came un riveted and shorted out when I unplugged a phone charger. Not only did it take out the fuse for the lighter, it took out 5 other fuses, and the aftermarket tach still has periodic tremors. I added a fuse in the line to the lighter socket, but am still wondering how it pulled that much power from the radio etc.

There may be some investigative procedures needed on this Mustang.
I agree this could be bigger than just a blown fuse , I hope not for the op's sake.
 
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I am concerned he hit the battery side of the fuse. That could have pulled a lot of power from the battery, and strange stuff can happen with a short.

In a 65 A body, the lighter socket center contact came un riveted and shorted out when I unplugged a phone charger. Not only did it take out the fuse for the lighter, it took out 5 other fuses, and the aftermarket tach still has periodic tremors. I added a fuse in the line to the lighter socket, but am still wondering how it pulled that much power from the radio etc.

There may be some investigative procedures needed on this Mustang.
Ok good and bad, I was passing an advance and said screw it bought a 200a fuse for the alternator Mega fuse and bought the 175 for the mega fuse on the back of my battery box. Changed up some of the grounds, and moved the ecu ground solo and on a clean spot. Connect the terminals..... nothing! :poo:! Ok well let me try the 175, reconnect.... we have power!! Try and start the car again to see if it runs better than yesterday. Car won’t start now. Turn key on, everything is sounding like normal, try and crank it over and silence.. no nothing. I can’t remember all the fuse box fuse uses but maybe its something in there?
 
Ok so found a ground from the msd box not grounded. Tried to crank the car and realized the mat was pushed up pretty good behind the peddles. Pulled it back, cranked and car turned over.
 
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Alright turned the car on and let it run, was running a little rough but started smoothing out. So I don’t have the air intake on, and I added this baffled valve cover grommet and placed my breather into it after I trimmed it a little. This was to see if it would help with the oil shooting up into the breather, soaking it, then dripping all over my header etc. Are these good? Never used one before, but I go to the back of the car after i turned it off, and I see this smoke. The car had never smoked!! Could it be due to the grommet?
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That baffled breather grommet won't cause that smoke. Several things can though. Condensation can do that but the smoke is usually thinner in mass. Could be something burning off from inside the pipes.
 
Is your pcv working properly?
If you pull the plug out of the valve cover when the engine is running is there smoke coming out?
That’s a good question, I’ll have to try that today. I’ll crank it, and let it run and see what happens smoke wise, if it does I’ll pull that grommet out and see if it clears. As for the pcv valve I would say yes, but how do I know for sure if it’s functioning properly?
 
cranked the car up and it ran, but it ran like crap. It’s a pain to try start it up with no seats in it, but hopped out, it was idling bad, checked out the tail pipes and it had some spurting misty spray smoke coming out. Ran to the front and tried to pull the baffled grommet out and it was hard as heck to pull out. Turned the car off, pull out the grommet, and restarted it. Turned on for a few seconds, idling rough then shut off. Nothing has changed besides the current wire tuck, and movement of some of the grounds. Haven’t changed the ecu or wire harness yet. It was running great before all this wire tuck and battery swap. I figured it was gonna crank right back up like normal. All the vacuum lines were slightly changed to were I hid the Vac tree over in the spot behind the tower and brake booster area. Could that incident I had when the ground touched the alt mega fuse and blew it out as well as the battery box one possibly done anything to the original ecu and sct chip??
 
That's the reason I advise against gathering ground wires together in one spot.
I have them separated now, but this is after that spark fuse blow out incident, which was my fault and thought the battery was disconnected but wasn’t. If per say it some how did screw up the ECU or the SCT chip how would I even know? Besides the fact that car starts up but runs rough almost like it’s not tuned anymore :thinking:
 
This vacuum line relocating has me thinking. Where did you put the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line ? Also, where did you run the vacuum line from the egr valve ?

There is a trace in the computer that can be burned if 12v is shorted to ground. Easiest check is to remove the computer and pull the cover off to look at the circuit board. The capacitors are also delicate after 30 years of life. Look for any burn marks or fluid coming from the bottom of the capacitors.

There's also a known issue with the 10 pin connectors that connect at the back of the intake. Start the car and wiggle those connectors and see if it cleared up. That would be the simplest fix.

Check and make sure all the spark plug wires are connected and that the distributor is tightened down. If you can turn it by hand it ain't tight.

Another thing is to smell the smoke. If it smells sweet it's coolant, like heavy fuel- it's gas, like thick oil- oil. It looks heavy to be condensation but it's still possible. Straight fuel going through a cylinder with no spark will make a heavy white smoke that lays on the ground ( burning fuel like a rich condition burns black ). Coolant will make a white cloud also but will smell sweet. Water ( condensation ) will usually rise right out of the pipe and look lighter.

That video looked like unburned fuel. If you pull the spark plugs they will tell you if anything is going on. The cylinder with the wet plug would be your issue. You want to start the car for a few seconds and then pull the spark plugs.
 
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@90sickfox To be clear, you did just tell @Reddevil91 to go suck exhaust, right? ;-)
When the caps were bad in my A9L, the car ran. It was eye burning rich and it spit out a gazillion codes that did not have a lot to do with reality.

1. Will an EEC IV run with the computer’s ground trace burned?
2. Besides checking codes and a process of elimination, is there a computer diagnostic procedure mere mortals can perform? The ECU Exchange has a testing procedure and equipment.
 
@90sickfox @7991LXnSHO So as for the Vac lines really wasn’t much of a change besides the extra length maybe 1-2 inches from normal. I have no EGR any more, and I think the little spout elbow that use to connect on to the valve is just there, it wasn’t capped off or anything. The fuel pressure reg vac line is still connect behind the intake.
The computer was already sent to ecu exchange and repaired maybe 6 months to a year ago, but I opened it anyways and from what I can tell it looks fine as well as the chip. I also had checked the wires bc I started the car previously and forgot to replug #4 on the first restart and I thought that was why the car was running bad, replugged it and still ran rough. So those are good, distributor feels solid not loose. I’ll have to pull and check the plugs.
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