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Can't Pull Codes!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hickfied
  • Start date Start date Apr 12, 2007

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
0
16
Morganton, NC
Apr 12, 2007
#1
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #1
I just got a 93 4 banger notch to DD. When I get on the gas, it has no power at all, but when I slowly roll into the throttle it wakes up! I was trying to pull the codes, putting the jumoer wire in, making sure the car was in neutral, AC off, and then turned the key on, but I don't get a CE light at all! Does anyone know what the cause of this could be?
 

Aryan15

Member
Sep 22, 2003
236
0
17
CA
Apr 13, 2007
#2
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #2
Light bulb is burned out. Use a voltmeter or scanner.
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Apr 13, 2007
#3
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #3
The Check Engine Light will come on briefly when your first turn the ignition switch to Run before you crank the car. If it does, then the bulb is OK.


Computer will not go into diagnostic mode

How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer
on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground.
It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with
the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe. What sometimes
happens is that it gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace
off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60. Only an
experienced electronics technician can open the computer up & repair the trace if it burns
up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering
it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test
simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.



If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the black/white wire and pin 46: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the
computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer
needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
0
16
Morganton, NC
Apr 13, 2007
#4
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #4
Alright.. The bulb was just burn't out!! lol

I got the codes 341:Octane adjust service pin in use, and 334: EGR closed voltage higher than expected.

What would those mean?
 
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