Car dies after a few seconds of idle, I think it's related to the O2 sensors

[StreetDreamsGT]

Ok first off, the 302 i'm speaking of is the one in my sig, i've replaced all of the sensors except the tp, ect, act and iac....but I cleaned the iac, and the TP sensor seems to be getting proper voltage. The car runs very rich and dies out unless I keep hitting the throttle.

I've only checked the codes for KOEO because it wont stay running long enough to check them ER, but i'm not getting any.
I've checked the vacuum and I don't seem to have any leaks.
Timing is about where it should be.

First question, is there a ground down by the O2 sensors? Because I have a wire hanging loose down by the driver's side O2 sensor. The only thing I know I need to do is change the plugs because they are fouled.

Second, does anyone know the part number for a maf meter calibrated to 24 lb injectors? I want to make sure I didn't mix up the stock maf meter and my 24lb calibrated one.

Other than that any thoughts are welcome......and yea I looked through the surging idle checklist, up to page 7....I intend to get back on reading it now.

Thanks for any help guys

 

[vristang]

What brand is the MAF meter?

Yes, there is a ground for the O2's. It should be Orange, but may have faded to a tan color. It should be attached to the firewall near the back of the drivers side head.

The first post in the checklist is updated with all the info from that thread.
JRichker has done an awesome job with that thread.

jason

 

[93 LX]

vacuum leak? PCV hose that runs under the upper intake.

That was my problem..

Allen

 

[HISSIN50]

On a purely info basis, if it stalls right after starting it up, the O2's (in most cases) will not have not even lit off yet. Now if an O2 issue has caused the adaptive control to totally get skewed, that'd be a different story.

Good luck.

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

It's a C&L meter. The guy I'd bought it off of gave me the stock injectors and meter also, they both say ford on them. I guess I should've asked for the numbers that are on a stock ford meter and if they're all the same.....

Yea that was what I had thought too Hissin....but I figured it'd be worth it to ask bout the ground anyway because after I rev it a lil bit i'll let it drop down and idle....it'll sit there for a lil while then die out, and I figured at that point the O2 sensors have got to be kicking in.

I believe a great deal of my problem with keeping it running was because of the fouled plugs, but I want to make sure it wont run rich anymore so I foul up another set of plugs....

I checked my vacuum and at first it'll jump to 15 and sit there but then it'd drop down to about 13 hop back up to 18 then back to 13, then 10, then it'll rev itself up to 15 before going back down to 10 then dying out.

All of my vacuum lines are brand new and tight and none of the hoses are cracked...I could've sworn the pcv valve was new, but if it wasn't could that really cause so much trouble?

 

[jrichker]

See "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle problems. The first two posts contains all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

So I just peeked at my computer...it says A9P (it's a 90 automatic so that is right)
below that it says E9ZF, the meter I have in there right now says F1ZF......could it be I have found my problem?!!!

 

[BK_CAULEY]

could it be your idle air motor went out on you? try setting the idle screw on the throttle body. i believe you are supposed to turn it till it touches then 1/2 turn from that.

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

I actually just went out n set the idle, it was round .5 or so, jrichker has said tween .7 n .99 is the best setting for it n I just set it to .92.

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

I pulled the meter n injectors n put the stock stuff back in, it runs but it wont go through the engine run test and i noticed the timing is set at 14 degrees but every once and a while it advances like crazy then goes back to normal....at least that was me judging by the timing light

 

[jrichker]

I pulled the meter n injectors n put the stock stuff back in, it runs but it wont go through the engine run test and i noticed the timing is set at 14 degrees but every once and a while it advances like crazy then goes back to normal....at least that was me judging by the timing light

Be sure to remove the SPOUT plug just below the TFI module when setting the timing. If you don't you will get it set wrong.

 

[68stang351]

vacuum leak? PCV hose that runs under the upper intake.

That was my problem..

Allen

I also agree. You should carefully check the vacuum lines. My 90 did the same thing when we first got it, so I replaced maf sensor, IAC valve, Tps, turns out it was a vacuum line.

 

[vristang]

So I just peeked at my computer...it says A9P (it's a 90 automatic so that is right)
below that it says E9ZF, the meter I have in there right now says F1ZF......could it be I have found my problem?!!!

All those numbers look right...



jason

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

Jrichker, I did, odd thing is when the it seemed to be going crazy I pulled the spout to reset the timing and when I did that it stayed at 14 degrees, but the moment I reconnected it, it started to jump around again.

Jason, are you telling me I could use either one?

 

[vristang]

Jason, are you telling me I could use either one?

either one what?

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

either maf sensor....like I have two, should I use the E9ZF or the F1ZF, and what seems to be up with my timing?

 

[vristang]

either maf sensor....like I have two, should I use the E9ZF or the F1ZF, and what seems to be up with my timing?

Oh,

I have been theorizing for a while that these 2 are actually the same sensor, just built during different years. I haven't taken the time to research that though...

I know the F1ZF is correct for your ecu, so stick with that.


jason

 

[vristang]

Jrichker, I did, odd thing is when the it seemed to be going crazy I pulled the spout to reset the timing and when I did that it stayed at 14 degrees, but the moment I reconnected it, it started to jump around again.

Jason, are you telling me I could use either one?

With the spout connector removed the ecu does not adjust the timing. The motor is running strictly on 'Base' timing, which would be 10* stock.
With the spout connector back in place, the ecu takes control of the timing again.
It is normal for the timing to move around a little with the spout connector in place.

jason

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

As far as the maf sensor that's what it seemed like after reading a few other posts from ppl with the same question, and since mine is a 90 I figured the F1ZF was the one for me.

Ohhhh, well actually I have it advanced to bout 14 degrees, it just seemed like the timing jumped around alot, i'll have to check it again today....why do you think I wasn't able to run the engine run test? And it was definitely something with my injectors and meter....because after I put the stock one back in it ran much better.