Cold Start Issue... ACT Sensor? '89 LX 2.3L (Update: Actually Fuel Pump Fun)

Yeah I’ve read up on it and certainly will look around for a full swap. If it’s not available and I get serious about it then I’ll be putting forged pistons in and tap an oil return... and get the right computer and all that fun. Definitely not worth it for just 5 psi. Haha.

I sprayed a good bit of starting fluid in the intake to try and get it to fire quicker... I still hear the fuel pump prime, but it’s 35-40 degrees outside max now and I’m getting no start or kick now. I am not enthusiastic about the ACT sensor which is under the upper intake manifold so I may try and heat that up with a heat gun... simulate a warmer day maybe. My thought process is that the ACT is working partially, perhaps the resistance is just out of range when cold and it’s dumping extra fuel in when it is within range enough as the block warms. Otherwise I’ll still be hunting and/or actually dig it out to test and rule it out. I don’t have the equipment to test fuel pressure yet so I’m trying the other things... hence the starting fluid.
 
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We will see, it’s still on my list because I have not checked it. I guess weak compression could present itself like this... I replaced coil, wires and plugs so everything short of cap and rotor and it runs fine once it is started... eventually will work this out. Just no time in the foreseeable future. Fall is kicking our butts up here.
 
So it’s been 6 months and I’ve been just getting to chip away at this thing little by little and was a little short on funds at the beginning of the year. Just thought it was worthy of an update. I’ve come to terms that I was being a moron back in November and hadn’t even thought of opening the butterfly valve on the TB when I sprayed the starter fluid... don’t ask. lol The smarter side of my brain kicked in and I did this and it starts up with a quick hit of the starter and runs great for 10 seconds and dies. So it’s pretty much all down to fuel. I did end up pulling the upper intake to get at the ACT and replaced it. Didn’t help. Got the thing all back together and on another 80 degree day only a last week I managed to get it running in order to move it to the main driveway.

So long story short I bought a fuel pressure gauge on Amazon and it should be here tomorrow. I spent yesterday replacing the calipers, rotors, bearings and pads... to show the wife that I could actually use the pile of parts that had been sitting there peacefully for too long holding the garage floor down... next weekend is the master cylinder and then probably the fuel pump the weekend after once we find out that that was the problem all along. lol

Also, I just added a chapter to the book called previous owner lied. That 2 years it was supposedly sitting. It was probably more like 10. Some old paperwork shows it back in ‘06 with only a couple k miles less than it currently has... and some stuff just ain’t right for sitting 2 years... but it is what it is. Gotta remember I paid $500 for this heap. lol
 
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might as well figure on replacing the pump, hose, tank, sock, filter, filler neck grommet, vent valve grommet, and sending unit if it's been sitting that long. Old gas does wonders. Also once it's all replaced and you have fuel pressure, if it runs out of fuel/falls on it's face, pull the injectors and replace the screens & o-rings. They plug too.
 
Yeah I got that list of crap to replace if/when I drop the tank. I did change the filter of course as a first effort on this renewed quest, and it didn't look as bad as one would think... It was murky on the tank side but I've seen far worse on cars that ran ok. I have no idea how old the gas was but I put in a bunch of dry gas when I got it and put in half a tank of new gas... it was nearly empty when I got it.

It seems to run fine once the block is warmed up so the one thing I'm really not concerned about is injectors.
 
Not that anyone probably cares but I figured I’d bring this thread to full conclusion. I found some time and bit the bullet this weekend and dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump I bought a couple months ago... put it all back together and fueled her up... sprayed a touch of starter fluid down her throat and she fired up and kept on running. Temp outside was 64 degrees. Now that I’ve installed a 340 lph pump I suppose I’ll just have to figure out a way to use a bit more of it. lol

Honestly this isn’t even in the top 5 worst jobs I’ve had to do on a car... straight forward and easily done with hand tools... and everything is right there out in the open. If anyone is intimidated by this job, don’t be, it’s not rocket science and it can easily be a one man or woman job.
 
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Thought it was about time to post an update on this adventure... and the thread was not to full conclusion, not one bit. LMAO.

My objectives have changed since I bought this car... the overall plan is still make it reliable before I add power, but after putting 300 miles on it, power is actually not that big of a deal... another 50 hp might be nice, but really don't care it's not a V8 or Turbo. I now have a fat set of swaybars and a set of SFC's waiting for the day I get up the motivation to install it. With the hurst shifter and the big swaybars it's already quite fun on slow switchbacks which I am blessed to have a ready source of locally.

But that's not the point of this post. So I changed out the fuel pump and put a gigantic 340 lph pump in the car and it ran great for several months, was just hampered by a summer that rained every other day last year. Now it's not raining much this summer but I've got the gas tank out of the car for a 4th time. I can replace a pump in 2 hrs now by the way... without cutting any sheet metal.

First thing I have learned is that any suspension work is FAR worse than replacing a fuel pump. So many people complain about the fuel pump job and so many people have cut their original sheet metal just to get straight to it, but this is not a bad job. You drive it til empty if you have that luxury, or you support the tank with jacks, unbolt the straps, lower the driver side so that you can get to the fuel sender... pop that off and throw a line in to drain the tank... I pump it out, you can siphon... whatever you got. Then you can pull it off of the neck grommet which has surely ripped by now. When you do this job you need to get a fuel sender, fuel pump, fuel pump Hanger, filler neck grommet... probably two new clips for the fuel lines. Replace everything! And save yourself from my trouble.

So I did the first fuel pump swap as above and the car ran great for a few months. Then it started to not start sometimes... fuel pump would not prime, car would not run that day. A couple days later it would run fine and wouldn't strand me... but it was less than reassuring. The old pump was definitely bad so that was not a problem. But I also never liked the butt splice connections I made on the pump, so I half dropped the tank just so I could look at the connection to the pump... still no problem there, so I bolted it back up and tried to run the pump directly... no go. An hour on the internet suggested I might be stressing out that pump by sending 300 lph straight back to the tank on the return line, so I went and bought a 155 lph pump thinking I might have killed the big one... but motivated to change it regardless... so a couple weeks later I dropped the tank a second time to swap that out... bolted it all up... didn't run... got pissed off and just reattached the tank and let it sit another two weeks. I might add that I confirmed that the fuel pump relay was fine, and it was sending 12v to the fuel tank harness at all the right times.

Then the neighbor comes over to help me because I'm sick of doing this job myself (he's also a mechanic) and so we drop it, we check all the continuity, start reconnecting everything, double checking everything as we go, and the pump starts running again we high five each other and bolt it all up, hit the starter, and the car is running again... we chalk it up to corrosion somewhere, maybe a loose connection... now I am starting to trust this car. I drive it 120 miles the next week like it's a cheap alternative to commute (daily driver gets 23 mpg), and then I go out one morning to go to work.... no prime. :eek: No start. AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGG (Picture Charlton Heston on the beach by the half submerged statue of liberty on his knees cursing the heavens)

Fast forward to today, three weeks later. I pulled the tank out a 4th time, I tore it all apart. Pulled out the fuel pump and tested continuity on everything. There is nothing from the positive pin to the fuel pump... wiggled it a little, got a faint beep... poked around a bit more... right in the pin there is an insulator to shield it from the metal plate, and there is a joint there, and it is busted. I hit the pump with 12 volts directly... runs beautifully... So I have now ordered a new fuel pump hanger and a third fuel tank filler neck grommet... those things are single use apparently. Hopefully by end of next weekend I'll have finally got this thing reliable. It never leaks oil and it never overheats... the engine is otherwise bulletproof.

So...
2 Fuel Pumps
2 Fuel Pump Relays
1 Fuel Sender
2 Fuel Pump connectors
3 Filler Neck Grommets
1 Fuel Pump Hanger
1 Partial fuel tank drop
4 Complete Fuel tank drops
Several Beers

And... I'm still pretty sure I beat taking it to a shop by a good $400. :D

Never give up on your dreams! lol
 
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The sending unit or pump module with the pump wires going through, is where they fail real often
Ford only sells the pumps as module assemblies or with the sender for that reason
Usually you can replace a couple of pumps and be okay
Occasionally you get screwed and the sender wiring fails on the first shot
 
Yeah that's pretty much what happened here... just the intermittent contact thing had me going through everything and thoroughly scratching my head, and of course I replaced the other stuff outside of the tank not desiring to drop it again... for the extra parts I bought I could have gotten a whole new shiny gas tank.
 
I hate that
Used to get Expeditions and Lincolns in flat on their aass with the air ride dead
Plug in the NGS to test, system wakes up finds no trouble, a real head scratcher
Used to throw a few new parts at them once in a while just for giggles
 
After the fuel tank overstayed its welcome in the garage, I finally put it all back in the car with the new parts... Fired right up. With a little luck it won't rain through all of August and September now. :rolleyes:
 
I'm a little late to the party but, if you ever need to pull your tank again spend 20 minutes and build a fuel tank cradle. I've used mine 4-5 times and it works flawlessly! You can pull it by yourself, it doesn't rock side to side and no need to drain the fuel. I've pulled and installed a couple of 3/4 full tanks. Most importantly you'll need a floor jack that has a removeable saddle. Other than that, some scrap lumber, a 1" pipe nipple and nut/bolt/washer assembly. It's like having a couple extra hands!

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I'm a little late to the party but, if you ever need to pull your tank again spend 20 minutes and build a fuel tank cradle. I've used mine 4-5 times and it works flawlessly! You can pull it by yourself, it doesn't rock side to side and no need to drain the fuel. I've pulled and installed a couple of 3/4 full tanks. Most importantly you'll need a floor jack that has a removeable saddle. Other than that, some scrap lumber, a 1" pipe nipple and nut/bolt/washer assembly. It's like having a couple extra hands!

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Yeah I was contemplating how to do something like this while doing it myself this time. I ended up putting a 2x10 edgewise up under one half and it helped a lot to stabilize but with two floor jacks it’s still rocking back and forth all over the place as I raise it into position and then you have to shove it onto the filler neck grommet. It does feel like an accomplishment getting it back in though. :D