cylinder deglaze

You might consider a few passes of a glaze-breaker like this:

View attachment 183046

along with a boatload of lube instead of the 3-stone unit. I've personally found the latter to be pretty aggressive unless you're definite about what you're doing.

The ring gap is one indication of the state of the bore. Are you comparing the reading before breaking the glaze to afterwards as an indication of how much material has been removed? If the ring-gap is your only method of checking the bore you should at least measure the bore at 3 locations (top, middle, bottom) to try to sniff out taper.

Ideally a bore gauge and inside mic would be used to measure the bore for taper and roundness as well as the piston to get an idea of the clearance.

Using the rings isn't a good way to measure the bore diameter since it doesn't directly relate back to the piston diameter. The fit of the pistons in the bore is the critical fit and there is an exact specification. If the cylinders are too sloppy, you will get pistons slap and blow by. Trinity described the correct way to have the bore measured. I always just asked my machinist to measure the bore (and pistons). He did it for free, knowing I would have the block tanked, decked flat, and bored as necessary. Having said that, the hone doesn't take material out very quickly. If you were fine before honing, you likely will be fine afterwards too.

Some rings are file to fit, meaning they are designed large so you can set the ring gap for your application.

I prefer the three stone hone and then a touch up with the berry hone, IMO the three stone keeps the bore straighter, where the berry will try to follow any irregularities in the bore. Of course if it's too far off it's re-bore time. You will also have to move that hone like a madman to get the 60 degree crosshatch.