Progress Thread Daily Driver.... 89 GT - They lost my radiator???

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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What specs we talking about? How many gasses? Ours in Utah was 3.0 and 300 for 1980 CO and HC
The older ones were more lax like 6.0 and 600 for 1976
You want your car to run around 3 percent on the CO with a carb anyway
Then with a decent ignition system you should be good?
 

TIGGER

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2.3 with a 4spd in the wagon. My dad ordered it new. His first new car. That is an old picture of the engine from when the car was in a calendar. It’s pretty dirty now from sitting.I don’t remember the DEQ specs although the failure sheet is on the passenger seat still. But the car is at my moms house. The wagon has been sitting since 09. It failed deq so I parked it at my moms house. I just bought my saleen and had my youngest son so I had no time to dink with it. The next year, in January, I got laid off and was unemployed for 18 months. Last year I started working on it again because my dad was coming to visit. I wanted to let him drive it around while he was here. I had not seen him since before COVID. Once again I got busy and that did not happen. Now I am going to get it going in his memory. Maybe take it to a few car shows. It’s really clean inside too for its age. I think it just needs a good carburetor. The one I have on it is junk now. I had the one I have had on it since the early 90’s rebuilt by the pony carburetor guy but it never ran right. I sent it back and he looked at it and sent it back but never put it back on. I kept it in the box till last year. I put it back on along with a new fuel pump and it still has the same issue as before. Now the Pony carb guy has passed. I have an NOS one in a box that is still shrink wrapped that I will put on before I drive it. Hopefully that one is good. It should be…..
 

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TIGGER

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This came today so I’m going to put a Momo veloce on this car. After driving my Saleen for the last 13 years I absolutely love that steering wheel. I had everything already but this piece. I will round everything up and probably install it later this week. Nothing else to report other than I cleaned another turbine today. I cleaned the easier one of the two.
 

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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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This came today so I’m going to put a Momo veloce on this car. After driving my Saleen for the last 13 years I absolutely love that steering wheel. I had everything already but this piece. I will round everything up and probably install it later this week. Nothing else to report other than I cleaned another turbine today. I cleaned the easier one of the two.


Is that the LMR one, or the Engineered Velocity version?
 

TIGGER

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Is that the LMR one, or the Engineered Velocity version?
I am not sure. It supposedly it came off a real Saleen? I thought the original ones were plastic. At least I thought remembered reading that. This one is anodized aluminum. Looks similar to the velocity one to me. What do you know about these? CC and the Momo wheel were not an option on the 86 cars so my car does not have one.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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I am not sure. It supposedly it came off a real Saleen? I thought the original ones were plastic. At least I thought remembered reading that. This one is anodized aluminum. Looks similar to the velocity one to me. What do you know about these? CC and the Momo wheel were not an option on the 86 cars so my car does not have one.

Looks like the engineered velocity one. The little cutout on the top looks similar. The SVE ones stick out a bit further and will say SVE. I haven’t seen an authentic Saleen one in a while


Vs



I run this on my car. I actually added cruise to my car (my car didn’t have it) just to make these buttons functional.

Does the backside look like this?
65D0DA12-B27B-44E1-8075-643C406FAD7C.jpeg



I think it’s a great look.
D5831C0A-BBF6-4E02-9806-59F0BD992130.jpeg
 
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TIGGER

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The back of the bracket looks like that but the holder cup things are different. Mine are not so flat on the bottom.

I pulled my steering wheel, horn button and hub adapter off the shelf and tried to mock everything up. How did you assembly yours? Did you use the horn button retaining ring? I didn’t play with it a whole lot but I could get everything to sit flat together.
 

TIGGER

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Both my foxes are missing the air bags:nice:

This is what I have going on. I sandwiched everything together without the horn button installed. The rubber boot is bunching up because the cruise bracket is not clearanced for it. It’s not bad but it bugs me.
 

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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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Trimmed the boot. I took about 1/4” out of it all around for the switch plate.

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You cut the cruise control button wires and they run in behind the boot. You can kinda see the wires in the 2nd pic above on the backside of the LH switch.



I changed the botton to the flush style. I know the correct Saleen style is the other type, but I like this better.

1CD9DDF7-93BC-4CC5-8F31-315E426951F7.jpeg



Here’s the other button. All I did was swap the button inserts between the two.
B038A14A-6FD2-485C-8ED0-725AA939EE5E.jpeg


Pretty simple install. I bolted the hub to my 87-89 column. Wired in the horn and cruise, and just bolted it all together. The flush horn goes in first and you bolt the wheel over it. The other style goes in last.

I’ll take some pics of the wiring as I think I’m gonna pull the wheel off to make putting my interior back easier. It’s 6 screws so quick work.

Horn and cruise are functional. I don’t have an airbag in this car as it’s an ‘88
 
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TIGGER

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Thank you. I was hoping to not have to trim the boot but probably the lesser of the two being I would not like it bunched up. Hope your kiddo feels better soon.
 
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Mustang5L5

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Pulled the whee off.

This should give you a rough idea on how it assembles.

ACEF0007-4F5E-4CA0-8740-A83B3D28E973.jpeg


Basically hub on first, and then the silver peice goes inside the cruise plate.


Didn’t think to write down the wiring. I’ll see if I can do it tomorrow. I actually forgot I used wirenuts here. Meant to go back and do this correctly after testing. Looks like I forgot


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In my case my button goes in first and then input the wheel on last and bolt it down. For you you will need to poke the two horn buttons through and then connect the horn and snap it in after the wheel.

C7341D22-8CE4-4C56-B0E1-A0EAA9A1C915.jpeg
 

TIGGER

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Thank you for your help. I got the steering wheel in. Only issue is that the wheel is not straight. It is slightly cocked to the right now. I wired everything in. Horn works but I am not sure about the cruise control as it didn’t work before the wheel swap. I was looking at your cruise control thread this morning. I think my cable needs adjusted. Going to look at that first. It was dark when I finished so the picture is no so great. Going to drive the car to work tomorrow.

In addition to the wheel I finally fixed the passenger door lock. No more binding with the key now. The other thing I did was fix the starter. The bendix was on its way out. I took parts off another starter. That starter should be good for a while now.
 

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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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You can test the buttons but unhooking the cruise wiring underneath the column shroud. It's three wires, purple, blue and black so should be easy to find. You can just test resistances between the colors and compare it to the values (on the wiring diagrams) i posted in the cruise thread. That should at least tell you if the buttons are hooked correctly.



Good shot of the wiring here. This is also the horn so you can test it all easily
FA28995D-0D1D-413A-B41F-D144FFD69818.jpeg
 
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Mustang5L5

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I just realized that the wiring diagrams show the wiring as black, blue and yellow. I beleive purple is the substitute for yellow. In that case you can test like this.

COAST: 120ohm blue to black
SET/ACCEL: 680 ohms blue to black
RESUME: 2200 ohms blue to black
OFF: Direct continuity blue to black
ON: Direct continuity purple to blue
HORN: direct continuity purple to black.
 

limp

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74 and older are exempt from DEQ. 75 and newer have to go thru for the rest of their lives. There are some county’s that are exempt but I do not live in one since I am in the “big”city. Oregon used to be 20 years or older but they changed that around 1990. They do have a special interest plate which is basically antique you pay a one time fee and your registration never expires however you are not supposed to drive it daily. Just for shows and parades. Supposedly some people get away with it some do not.

I am going to get my dads Pinto out this year and was thinking going that route since it is a 79 and difficult to get to pass but I work across from a police station in Canby and always have cops following me out when I go to lunch or home. Being orange I would stick out.
Kate Brown, what a keeper governor..... LOL ... And who in Oregon RE elected her????? But I digress.......
Don't let the Nazi's at the DMV scare you... I had the Special interest plates on my 67 dodge.... Is your car club having an Ice cream social after work.. Who is to say what route you are taking to a small show at the " coffee " shop.... Or maybe the mechanic needs to look at your car?? And when you are driving to a " show" you do NOT have to drive the most direct route to get there.... Maybe take the coast road on your way there? LOL
Side benefit with the special interest tags is you only are required to have a rear plate, NO front plate anymore......
The " hispanic " inter;preter at DMV tried to talk be out of the special interest plates when I got mine.... I had some " no speeka da englees " comments for that dumb beetch..... I never had a problem....
Heck, I drove with them for 10 years after moving to Florida..... LOL..... Can't fix it if its not broken......
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