Electrical Drained battery and check engine light.

FirstOnRaceDay2

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Jul 4, 2022
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Hello, this is my first post on here. I went to start my car today and I got nothing. Not even clicking just a completely drained battery as far as I could tell. I decided to replace mine since it has never done this before and it is around the 3-4 year mark. Once the battery was replaced and I started it for the first time since it had drained I’m assuming.. it runs horribly. I gave it some gas and it shutters, followed by a pop noise from the engine bay and can’t really accelerate much and couldn’t idle at all until it was warm. This is incredibly out of the ordinary for me. I drove it around and it jolts forward violently and eventually came up with a check engine light. I ordered an OBD-1 reader to see what it is. Any help at all would be appreciated and sorry if it’s something incredibly obvious. Also happy 4th everyone!
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
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Same thing happened to me with a GM car..... My mechanic said it sometimes takes 3 or 4 days for the computer to relearn itself after a total loss of battery power.......
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Hello, this is my first post on here. I went to start my car today and I got nothing. Not even clicking just a completely drained battery as far as I could tell. I decided to replace mine since it has never done this before and it is around the 3-4 year mark. Once the battery was replaced and I started it for the first time since it had drained I’m assuming.. it runs horribly. I gave it some gas and it shutters, followed by a pop noise from the engine bay and can’t really accelerate much and couldn’t idle at all until it was warm. This is incredibly out of the ordinary for me. I drove it around and it jolts forward violently and eventually came up with a check engine light. I ordered an OBD-1 reader to see what it is. Any help at all would be appreciated and sorry if it’s something incredibly obvious. Also happy 4th everyone!

The computer will relearn the adaptive settings after 15-20 minutes of normal driving. Be sure to include at least 7 minutes of highway driving for best results.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Foxbody Diagnostic connector

foxbody-mustang-diagnostic-connector-jpg.586766


Foxbody Diagnostic connector close up view


foxbody-diagnostic-connetor-closeup-view-jpg.586765


If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

583777


The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

583778


The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and drivability problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
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Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.

Order it at Walmart for a better price and free shipping

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