By far the easiest and cheapest solution would be to add a pressure switch to your brake line.
You could easily add it in between the master cylinder and dist. block without having to re-flair any lines. Most auto parts stores sell short sections of brake line with both ends pre-flaired.
Search www.summitracing.com for a brake light pressure switches. For example P/N: PRF-80171 is only $12.
*This is all based on yur brakes currently function acceptably with peddle setup you have.
You could easily add it in between the master cylinder and dist. block without having to re-flair any lines. Most auto parts stores sell short sections of brake line with both ends pre-flaired.
Search www.summitracing.com for a brake light pressure switches. For example P/N: PRF-80171 is only $12.
*This is all based on yur brakes currently function acceptably with peddle setup you have.
67coupe351w said:
If you can't find a factory-type switch that will work correctly, then you can do what I did on my brake pedal when I adapted an '87-'93 Mustang 5.0L Fox brake booster to my '68. --assuming IF you have a stamped bracket at the top of your pedal like the one shown in the lower part of this picture: http://www.ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/Sept2002/11t.jpg
I installed a Microswitch which activates the instant the brake pedal is stepped on. http://www.ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/April2003/02t.jpg
More on this in following link; http://www.ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=16
I know you probably already know this, but you do know that manual brake pedals and power (disc or drum) brake pedals are different, right? The power pedal pivot is much higher therefore taking away some of the mechanical advantage needed for manual brakes. Maybe this is what's causing your problem. Or maybe not...
We converted from all drums to power (after market booster) 4 wheel discs on our 65. When the brake light switch was installed on the standard brake lever (correctly installed with bushing) the brake lights would not come on at all. The company (ABS Power Brakes) removed the bushing that goes between the switch and the pedal. This left the pedal very loose. We are in the process of rebuilding the car and we are adding the SSBC combination adjustable proportioning valve and pressure brake switch. Then, we can fix the sleeve properly on the brake pedal for a nice fit. and still have brake lights and the proportioning valve
depends on the kit
Some aftermarket brake kits are designed to use the shorter manual brake pedal. I would find out what brand kit was used and go check their website or call them. If you don't have the right pedal, it still will work but will not realize the maximum performance of the brake system. I used SSBC kit and swapped in OEM booste to remsun compatible with my hydraulic clutch unit. This required a pedal swap. Hit the link in my sig and view the write up I did on my swap. All that said, the pressure switch is a nice solution to your problem as others pointed out. Hope this helps.
Some aftermarket brake kits are designed to use the shorter manual brake pedal. I would find out what brand kit was used and go check their website or call them. If you don't have the right pedal, it still will work but will not realize the maximum performance of the brake system. I used SSBC kit and swapped in OEM booste to remsun compatible with my hydraulic clutch unit. This required a pedal swap. Hit the link in my sig and view the write up I did on my swap. All that said, the pressure switch is a nice solution to your problem as others pointed out. Hope this helps.