Build Thread Dusty ain't gettin' worked on...

#1,321
Pics of the driveshaft in question.





This is where I had it shortened. Factory length is 65.5 inches. I need to measure it so I can tell exactly how much shorter it really is.



This is the other end with the nice weld.



Gotta figure out something to do with this....its the only rust on my car and needs to go. I'm thinking electronic cut out.

 
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#1,323
Noobz347 said:
So, where did the groove in the driveshaft come from?
Click to expand...

When my 89gt convertible got swapped to 5 lug I used a sn95 brake handle. The bolt I used was too long. I launched it at the track and heard the driveshaft bump the tunnel. That was done on that run. Its been good for a very long time....but this engine is making more power than all of my previous ones.
 
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#1,324
Almost there. Tomorrow I'll get the exhaust dropped and the t5 pulled out.



Anyone else remember these old Hurst shifters ? I've had this one maybe 20 years....jeeeesh where did the time go ?

 
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#1,326
90sickfox said:
Almost there. Tomorrow I'll get the exhaust dropped and the t5 pulled out.



Anyone else remember these old Hurst shifters ? I've had this one maybe 20 years....jeeeesh where did the time go ?

Click to expand...
Yeah man, it seems like these days time flies after than ever.

20 years ago I was 20, in another 20 years, I’ll be 60! Yikes
 
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#1,327
Another wonderful day...



The ole'lady was clearing her ears out when I told her how much more money I needed to spend. The reasons are legit though.

The flywheel has hot spots all over...



Never gave me an indication....never chattered or anything.

Found a bad oil leak from my passenger valve cover. After running I did smell burning oil but only saw a couple drips in the garage. Thought it was the drain plug seal. The leak runs down the side of the block, past the starter, around the oil pan gasket, and down the front of the separator plate.



I just can't tell if this is mixing with a rear main seal leak or not.



So....I need to order a driveshaft, billet steel flywheel, spark plugs, oil + filter, and clean everything. Who said this car hobby thing was a good idea ?

Oh...and the 4 cylinder t5 started to leak between the bearing retainer and the case. That also found its way down to the bellowing and front of the separator plate. No evidence of it getting on the clutch though. Was definitely going to be a problem.

Glad I decided to jump into this now.

I'm going to have to get a couple painters suits so I can clean the bottom of the car. Guess they'll be no more driving before the salt hits....but next spring will be amazing.
 
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#1,328

I've thought about it... I was an engineering major in college. Something just doesn't sit right with welding a line on and empty tube like that. The proper way would be to sleeve the inside of the shaft in that area. Driveshafts twist a small amount when torque is applied. A weld like that is asking to crack. I may fix it up and paint it. It wouldn't bother me in something less than 350hp. Its shortened and I have no idea if it will ever work in a normal mustang again.

I wish I could go the inexpensive way ( like turning my flywheel on the brake lathe here at work ). I still may turn the flywheel in order to have a complete set up of spare parts. The right way is to spend the money and get good parts....that have a lower margin of catastrophic failure.

The woman of my house just wants me to get this car done so she can get a car for me to work on. Spending money is the faster way to get it done....she doesn't want excuses and could care less what I spend my money on....as long as I spend the same money or more on her project car.
 
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#1,329
I did a whole step by step process of how to remove a pilot bearing, how to apply loctite, and how to properly torque flywheel bolts to 85ft.lbs. and clutch pressure plates to 24ft.lbs.

Do you see anything wrong with this picture ?...



How about now ?....



That dang separator plate got my arse good tonite. Screwed the whole post up. I even had a story about how I used my pilot bearing removal kit...



Its late for me so here's the quick story...





Here's a picture of my improperly installed but properly torqued flywheel...



You would've thought I would've noticed my mistake when I inserted that screw driver to hold the flywheel still...but nope...



This thing just sat there laughing at me all the way until I wrote my first ( now deleted ) post.



It's all redone now and waiting for the oil leak from the valve cover to be fixed.

Picked up some new spark plugs too. Good ole 3923 Autolites.



I've got to run down to my farm in the AM tomorrow. Lots of work to do and an afternoon hunt.

I'll be back with more pics Sunday....smh
 
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#1,331
CarMichael Angelo said:
The separator plate is not required. There are two bolt rings that locate the starter that bolt to the bellhousing.
Click to expand...

I know about the shims but without the spacer the input shaft rides a little further into the pilot bearing. Not by much though. It also helps with debris and water getting in the clutch.
 
#1,332
Got done early at the farm so decided to prep stuff for the big day tomorrow.

There were no issues with this clutch other than pushing through it occasionally. Figured I could atleast use the clutch fork...nope... I was wrong.



I never pulled it off and checked it when I took the t5 out of my 89 gt. Never had an issue at all with shifting or noise.

It was riding at an angle...



Guess I found the problem. I hope we get more stuff made in the good ole USA. This is BS....



So much for my big day tomorrow.
 
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#1,333
You have a welder right? Fill it in and grind it back down?
 
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#1,335
You should really get the longer fork for the TKO anyway. My cable goes into the fork at an angle and it drives me crazy.
 
#1,336
The reason the fork got ground into is because the opening for the bearing itself is too big. It allowed the collar for the bearing to twist.

Its also a softer type of steel. I'm ordering a Ford one. I think welding it and filing it into shape would just cause other issues. Its a cheap China fork that happens to be nicely galvanized. Good looking POS.
 
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#1,337
Went to Tractor supply to try and find new bolts since the old ones are going on the old engine. No dice at all. Ended up ordering front coilovers, spanner wrench, Ford fork, and all new bolts.

Next go around should be the driveshaft, rear shocks, and rear coilovers. After that I should be done under the car. Might actually get to drive it again by December.
 
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#1,339
Stuff was supposed to show up today....but no bueno. FedEx sucks right now. They are really overwhelmed with all the stuff being shipped. I guess this will be the new norm. I really got spoiled by real delivery dates.
 
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