90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Had a wonderful day at work today. Decided to come home and do this.

20201103_193105.jpg


It was a super sketchy operation getting the car this high. I'm using 6 jack stands. Trying to make the turbo car hall of fame without being crushed.

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I managed to get the t5 fluid drained. Slowed down when I saw the several scars on the old driveshaft. Just a bunch of old stuff I forgot about. It didn't vibrate and has held up over the years but the groove is about 1/16ths deep...thats a lot to put over 500hp through. No one has a replacement except CJ Pony...that I'll never deal with again...and JEGs. Their driveshaft has a hybred 1310 to 1330 u joint at the rear flange. I've been searching for a 1330 flange so I can swap it out for the proper bigger u joint.

Also, I realized that I had the driveshaft shortened so the transmission seal would ride in the same exact spot that it did with the solid axle. Don't know why I didn't just change the yoke. It was a little surface corrosion on it so I didn't want it to tear up the seal. Smh. It worked though...never any leaks from there. I seem to remember only having a very little amount of room between the end of the yoke and the seal. We'll find out when I get the new shaft.

Sometimes I just can't remember things the right way. Frustrates the hell out of me. I feel like I remember but my details are all jacked up. Then I look at something and realize what actually happened....like I wasn't there in the first place. I've been getting better though.

Like just now....why would I buy a 1330 flange when I already have one on the trashed one thats coming out of the car.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Atleast someone enjoyed that.

So....aluminum driveshaft will be coming ASAP. Going with the Strange coil over kit ( two collars per side vs. UPRs one...and I like the collar design better ). MM still will get my order for the IRS coil over system...guess I'll go ahead and order the grooved shocks now.

Gotta get a low profile transmission jack from HF. It should be good for a few different things.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Atleast someone enjoyed that.

So....aluminum driveshaft will be coming ASAP. Going with the Strange coil over kit ( two collars per side vs. UPRs one...and I like the collar design better ). MM still will get my order for the IRS coil over system...guess I'll go ahead and order the grooved shocks now.

Gotta get a low profile transmission jack from HF. It should be good for a few different things.
meh...call me, ill tell you how to make your HF jack work.

If i can lift the 4r70 in/out 4 times, and the 4l80e in/out 3 times w/o peril...it has to be a sound solution. :nice:
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Pics of the driveshaft in question.

20201104_183936.jpg


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This is where I had it shortened. Factory length is 65.5 inches. I need to measure it so I can tell exactly how much shorter it really is.

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This is the other end with the nice weld.

20201104_184009.jpg


Gotta figure out something to do with this....its the only rust on my car and needs to go. I'm thinking electronic cut out.

20201104_190942.jpg
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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So, where did the groove in the driveshaft come from?

When my 89gt convertible got swapped to 5 lug I used a sn95 brake handle. The bolt I used was too long. I launched it at the track and heard the driveshaft bump the tunnel. That was done on that run. Its been good for a very long time....but this engine is making more power than all of my previous ones.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Almost there. Tomorrow I'll get the exhaust dropped and the t5 pulled out.

20201104_205749.jpg


Anyone else remember these old Hurst shifters ? I've had this one maybe 20 years....jeeeesh where did the time go ?

20201104_212541.jpg
 

Noobz347

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When my 89gt convertible got swapped to 5 lug I used a sn95 brake handle. The bolt I used was too long. I launched it at the track and heard the driveshaft bump the tunnel. That was done on that run. Its been good for a very long time....but this engine is making more power than all of my previous ones.
Your machining skills are exceptional. :nice:
 
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BlakeusMaximus

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Almost there. Tomorrow I'll get the exhaust dropped and the t5 pulled out.

20201104_205749.jpg


Anyone else remember these old Hurst shifters ? I've had this one maybe 20 years....jeeeesh where did the time go ?

20201104_212541.jpg
Yeah man, it seems like these days time flies after than ever.

20 years ago I was 20, in another 20 years, I’ll be 60! Yikes
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Another wonderful day...

20201105_204033.jpg


The ole'lady was clearing her ears out when I told her how much more money I needed to spend. The reasons are legit though.

The flywheel has hot spots all over...

20201105_202920.jpg


Never gave me an indication....never chattered or anything.

Found a bad oil leak from my passenger valve cover. After running I did smell burning oil but only saw a couple drips in the garage. Thought it was the drain plug seal. The leak runs down the side of the block, past the starter, around the oil pan gasket, and down the front of the separator plate.

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I just can't tell if this is mixing with a rear main seal leak or not.

20201105_203033.jpg


So....I need to order a driveshaft, billet steel flywheel, spark plugs, oil + filter, and clean everything. Who said this car hobby thing was a good idea ?

Oh...and the 4 cylinder t5 started to leak between the bearing retainer and the case. That also found its way down to the bellowing and front of the separator plate. No evidence of it getting on the clutch though. Was definitely going to be a problem.

Glad I decided to jump into this now.

I'm going to have to get a couple painters suits so I can clean the bottom of the car. Guess they'll be no more driving before the salt hits....but next spring will be amazing.
 

7991LXnSHO

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I would think @Noobz347 would have a working model by now, he's wanted one setup on a car since he was a pup.
A four eye with a fake outer lense that swings open would not require as much fender cutting for a paintball or other gun.

If the other end of the driveshaft can be welded together, why not fill in the groove with a good weld? I have a FMS aluminum driveshaft from before they jacked up the prices, but both u-joints had some siezed caps and I was hunting a drivetrain vibration. After the price of the other parts, your SO might appreciate a show of frugality.
My spouse has not asked once how much I am spending on a project car. I think she might be internally go “LALALALALALA I’m not listening” when I bring up what I am thinking about doing. As long as we are not broke, she trusts my thrifty traits.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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A four eye with a fake outer lense that swings open would not require as much fender cutting for a paintball or other gun.

If the other end of the driveshaft can be welded together, why not fill in the groove with a good weld? I have a FMS aluminum driveshaft from before they jacked up the prices, but both u-joints had some siezed caps and I was hunting a drivetrain vibration. After the price of the other parts, your SO might appreciate a show of frugality.
My spouse has not asked once how much I am spending on a project car. I think she might be internally go “LALALALALALA I’m not listening” when I bring up what I am thinking about doing. As long as we are not broke, she trusts my thrifty traits.

I've thought about it... I was an engineering major in college. Something just doesn't sit right with welding a line on and empty tube like that. The proper way would be to sleeve the inside of the shaft in that area. Driveshafts twist a small amount when torque is applied. A weld like that is asking to crack. I may fix it up and paint it. It wouldn't bother me in something less than 350hp. Its shortened and I have no idea if it will ever work in a normal mustang again.

I wish I could go the inexpensive way ( like turning my flywheel on the brake lathe here at work ). I still may turn the flywheel in order to have a complete set up of spare parts. The right way is to spend the money and get good parts....that have a lower margin of catastrophic failure.

The woman of my house just wants me to get this car done so she can get a car for me to work on. Spending money is the faster way to get it done....she doesn't want excuses and could care less what I spend my money on....as long as I spend the same money or more on her project car.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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I did a whole step by step process of how to remove a pilot bearing, how to apply loctite, and how to properly torque flywheel bolts to 85ft.lbs. and clutch pressure plates to 24ft.lbs.

Do you see anything wrong with this picture ?...

20201106_194310.jpg


How about now ?....

20201106_205038.jpg


That dang separator plate got my arse good tonite. Screwed the whole post up. I even had a story about how I used my pilot bearing removal kit...

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Its late for me so here's the quick story...

20201106_190952.jpg


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Here's a picture of my improperly installed but properly torqued flywheel...

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You would've thought I would've noticed my mistake when I inserted that screw driver to hold the flywheel still...but nope...

20201106_194130.jpg


This thing just sat there laughing at me all the way until I wrote my first ( now deleted ) post.

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It's all redone now and waiting for the oil leak from the valve cover to be fixed.

Picked up some new spark plugs too. Good ole 3923 Autolites.

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I've got to run down to my farm in the AM tomorrow. Lots of work to do and an afternoon hunt.

I'll be back with more pics Sunday....smh
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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The separator plate is not required. There are two bolt rings that locate the starter that bolt to the bellhousing.

I know about the shims but without the spacer the input shaft rides a little further into the pilot bearing. Not by much though. It also helps with debris and water getting in the clutch.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Got done early at the farm so decided to prep stuff for the big day tomorrow.

There were no issues with this clutch other than pushing through it occasionally. Figured I could atleast use the clutch fork...nope... I was wrong.

20201107_185324.jpg


I never pulled it off and checked it when I took the t5 out of my 89 gt. Never had an issue at all with shifting or noise.

It was riding at an angle...

20201107_185708.jpg


Guess I found the problem. I hope we get more stuff made in the good ole USA. This is BS....

20201107_185330.jpg


So much for my big day tomorrow.
 

RaggedGT

check back later..
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Got done early at the farm so decided to prep stuff for the big day tomorrow.

There were no issues with this clutch other than pushing through it occasionally. Figured I could atleast use the clutch fork...nope... I was wrong.

20201107_185324.jpg


I never pulled it off and checked it when I took the t5 out of my 89 gt. Never had an issue at all with shifting or noise.

It was riding at an angle...

20201107_185708.jpg


Guess I found the problem. I hope we get more stuff made in the good ole USA. This is BS....

20201107_185330.jpg


So much for my big day tomorrow.
You have a welder right? Fill it in and grind it back down?
 
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