90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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This was before I turned my steering wheel lock to lock....squirting PS fluid all the way to my tool box. It came out of the breather hole in the cap. Did find a small leak at the power steering pressure line at the rack. I'll investigate further when I get home.

I've been trying to find an explorer oil filter 90° adapter for a few days. Guess I'll have to hit up the local junk yard and attempt to score.


20201119_190824.jpg
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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This was before I turned my steering wheel lock to lock....squirting PS fluid all the way to my tool box. It came out of the breather hole in the cap. Did find a small leak at the power steering pressure line at the rack. I'll investigate further when I get home.

I've been trying to find an explorer oil filter 90° adapter for a few days. Guess I'll have to hit up the local junk yard and attempt to score.


20201119_190824.jpg
Your brake rotors are on the wrong sides.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Your brake rotors are on the wrong sides.
These are the sides the paperwork from the manufacturer said to put them on. Seemed weird to me at the time...but they said to do it this way so...
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Put Dusty on an IV last night. This is how I fill manual transmissions in the easiest cleanest way possible.

20201120_194613.jpg


I have a ball valve in the hose by the transmission to cut the line off when it gets close to full. No drips and no mess. All the extra fluid goes back in a bottle.

20201120_200834.jpg


This has worked for me for years. No mess and no fuss. My TKO600 took 2.5 quarts and ended up right below the fill hole

Edit ; after hanging the bottle, with bungee chords or string, I poke a hole in it at its highest point to allow the fluid to flow out. After it gets low enough I cut a bigger section off to make a funnel for the rest of the fluid. Any left over fluid can be drained back into a good bottle. The clear hose, valve and fittings are cheap at hardware stores. Just wanted to give a little more info for those that want to try this method.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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The coilovers ride beautifully so far. Ended up raising them up to 5.5 inches. That actually raised the front about 3/4 inch at the bumper. No more scraping in and out the driveway.

The exhaust sounds a lot better. It's got a deeper tone now and not irritatingly loud.

This was to show the little joy I found today.

20201121_154150.jpg


If you look real close you can see a very light burnout mark. Just a little light throttle fun.

....that was because.......

The damn flywheel vibrates its arse off. As soon as rpms rise the vibration kicks in like its trying to shake your teeth out. I took a gamble on a Carquest branded one for a 87 to 93 mustang. Its supposed to be 50 ounce balanced. In actuality I have no idea what the balance is on the old billet steel one. I should've just taken it to the machine shop and got it surfaced. Now I have the fine joy of having to remove the transmission again.

This thing will be resurfaced if they can save it. I'd hate to order another one.

20201121_154718.jpg


20201121_154730.jpg


...and the saga continues....
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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These are the sides the paperwork from the manufacturer said to put them on. Seemed weird to me at the time...but they said to do it this way so...
Everything you read will tell you the opposite.
As the rotors turn forward the grooved slots act like wind vanes, to direct air into and under the pads..the way you have them serve no purpose.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Everything you read will tell you the opposite.
As the rotors turn forward the grooved slots act like wind vanes, to direct air into and under the pads..the way you have them serve no purpose.

can’t tell you the number of times I post pics of my brakes and someone tells me they are backwards


however some vendors do make the rotors to “spin” in that direction.
97018C15-AF19-44A4-B8B4-195C673EFF51.jpeg
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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I know.

but some vendors do cast/drill them with internal vanes going in the direction of the holes, so his could be right.

The drilled holes are in the direction of the vanes. According to road and autocross racers we are all wrong. Drilled and slotted rotors remove surface area. Good pads ( minimal degassing ) and solid rotors are the best for braking.

@CarMichael Angelo the look is more important than function....but I'll stick with the manufacturers recommendation....unlike my ecoboosts recommended 10k oil change.
 

7991LXnSHO

Now I want a 10 year badge
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FedEx and UPS both mixed up deliveries this week. UPS delivered to the wrong address and fixed it by 9 PM. FedEx dropped off someone else’s package. The truck arrived back to swap packages as I was FB messaging the intended recipient after not finding her in the phone book. And on Nov 1 of all days, USPS gave us one neighbor’s Dish network bill, and the neighbor to the other side was out trying to find out where someone else on the street lives to give him his mail. Ring cameras will help with porch pirates, but not overloaded and substitute delivery workers.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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?...them force and try to I am Who, ...drink wanna don’t they If...water to horses the lead just I ...Hey.

For the record....slotted disc brake are designed to remove the hot gas layer that builds under the pads...not air from outside. Also no real cooling from slotted or drilled rotors by themselves. Angled vanes are what pulls air from the center of the hub and out. With the direction my rotors are going the air is pulled from center due to vacuum caused by the angle of the vanes....they are also pulling gas and dust out from under the pads by centrifugal force..helped by the direction of the slots and the drilled holes.

Everything moves towards the outside of a moving circle. Brake dust builds on the inside of the rim first...then the face. So air must move from back to front...and...of course....from center out.

My rotors are the right way....yours are backwards.

Now drink up buttercup...
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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For the record....slotted disc brake are designed to remove the hot gas layer that builds under the pads...not air from outside. Also no real cooling from slotted or drilled rotors by themselves. Angled vanes are what pulls air from the center of the hub and out. With the direction my rotors are going the air is pulled from center due to vacuum caused by the angle of the vanes....they are also pulling gas and dust out from under the pads by centrifugal force..helped by the direction of the slots and the drilled holes.

Everything moves towards the outside of a moving circle. Brake dust builds on the inside of the rim first...then the face. So air must move from back to front...and...of course....from center out.

My rotors are the right way....yours are backwards.

Now drink up buttercup...
I guess it’s just like everything else nowadays...you can literally show somebody the path, but as long as there’s that one guy telling them that everything else is fake, they pick their path...and follow his orange ass off the cliff..

9 out of 10 videos out there are telling you your rotors are on backwards. But they are all wrong except for the one you choose to follow..this all seems all too familiar.
Run your stuff backwards if it makes you feel better.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Rather than make a thread about which way a rotor is installed, mostly because the players are here on this thread hopefully I can clear this up.
Maybe. After all, I do have an idiot light!
Now to the point, I compared several rotor types and this is what I found.
The direction of the slots and holes does not matter, what matters is the vain between the rotor surfaces, some are directional, some are not. If the cooling vains are straight up and down direction will not matter, curved or slanted are directional.
I have a set of drilled/slotted rotors that the cooling vain is straight.
So both of you could be correct.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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This flywheel thing has me scratching my head. Looking at it and comparing to other flywheels of the same type it appears to be 28oz weight on it. The rotating assembly was balanced by the builder and I have no idea if they removed material from the flywheel to help tighten the balance up. Build was too long ago for them to give me any info.

I've got one hope at a machine shop near me. Called today and he said 75 for Good Friday. Eubanks Automotive in Woodford, VA. They have an decent reputation. If everything works out they may be getting my 306 heads and block for a freshen up...hone and bearings. Then the plan for the Dart block can develop.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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.....I forgot to put the MM IRS tie rod ends on the car. Was really pushing to have it done Saturday for the last big meet up of my racing crew. Guess I have the winter to get it all together. Ordering the rear coilover shocks soon.
 
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stanglx2002

CT Material here
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I have learned that if I give myself a set timeline to try and have a project on the car done by.. I will never meet that schedule
Its good to have a schedule to add drive to the project, but the important part is to roll with the punches if it doesn't. The biggest thing is to reschedule for the next timeline, so you have something to work toward. If not, the project can linger on and on...
 
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