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Just got back from my farm...this is what I spent all day doing on my fathers 02 Dodge.

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Thats my Dad and one of my sons.

His bed is as collapsing and major rust around wheel wells. He's going to clean and por 15 the frame...and I'm going to go back and cut the rust out of the bed and do the body work.

We got angle iron to weld on the braces but the bottom rail needs 3x3 angle. He had a guy fix some rust on the sides years ago but the idiot put spray foam as a backer for the bondo. I'll fix it so he gets another 5 years out of it. Its too far gone for more than that. It'll get a stake body at that point.
 
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@davedathe transmission would've been 2586.00 by itself without the 480.00 upgrades and the clutch, yoke, and bell. Some people modify the t5 bell and just relocate the stock crossmember. A tko500 doesn't need a new clutch.

I could've done it the cheap way but I wanted it done the best and fastest way possible. That didn't come cheap.
 
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But when comparing the two of us, think of it this way: While you’re shiftin’, I’m not liftin’
From one old man to another, things have changed a little bit. He's not going to have to lift to shift that transmission. You don't need to lift on a stock TKO600, and you definitely don't need to lift on a Hanlon. You got to give it just a dab of clutch to unload the blocker ring. With a little practice that Hanlon will keep up with your 4L80 on at least 2 shifts. The 2-3 shift is always a little bit of a loss.

Kurt
 
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From one old man to another, things have changed a little bit. He's not going to have to lift to shift that transmission. You don't need to lift on a stock TKO600, and you definitely don't need to lift on a Hanlon. You got to give it just a dab of clutch to unload the blocker ring. With a little practice that Hanlon will keep up with your 4L80 on at least 2 shifts. The 2-3 shift is always a little bit of a loss.

Kurt
And most modern ECU have Flat shifting, so even if you have to use the clutch peddle, you never lift the throttle.

@90sickfox damn, that's a nice pile! :cheers:
 
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I wonder what I'm going to do with the other complete set up. All I need is a flywheel and a carburetor and I'll have a complete engine and transmission sitting in the corner with long tubes.

My old neighbor still has the rust free calypso 4 banger. Might have to make a call....
 
I wonder what I'm going to do with the other complete set up. All I need is a flywheel and a carburetor and I'll have a complete engine and transmission sitting in the corner with long tubes.

My old neighbor still has the rust free calypso 4 banger. Might have to make a call....
$1700.00 Value , but you might take a grand.
 
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Lol our car front ends would of been exact. Thats funny. Ultra clears, same red, 03 cobra unpainted. But mine aint that red since had to source frontend from crash.

Thats where similarity stop though. Ie: stroker,turbo,trans... but damn thats trans sick!
 
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I had a pile of parts that big...It took me a month of solid days during my “ Covid Furlough” from work to get them in the engine. and on the car. If not for that solid amount of time, I’d just now be getting mine running originally with a 4r70w in it.
Now,...that said...Get to work.
 
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I had a pile of parts that big...It took me a month of solid days during my “ Covid Furlough” from work to get them in the engine. and on the car. If not for that solid amount of time, I’d just now be getting mine running originally with a 4r70w in it.
Now,...that said...Get to work.

I wish I got some time off for Covid.

Kurt
 
I had a pile of parts that big...It took me a month of solid days during my “ Covid Furlough” from work to get them in the engine. and on the car. If not for that solid amount of time, I’d just now be getting mine running originally with a 4r70w in it.
Now,...that said...Get to work.

Yeah this stuff never goes in as quick as the boxes arrive. I wanted to get back out before the first salt drops but reality is setting in. Might end up being the through the winter project. Right now I can drive the car...just can't stab the peddle fast or the clutch will slip. Never smelled any clutch burn but I could feel the rpms flash a little.
 
Alrighty....I've been really thinking about coil overs and trying to fill a cart. So far, I like the Strange adjustable front struts with Strange front coil over kit...200lb springs...and Maximum Motorsports rear IRS coil over kit with MM shocks with precut rings for coil over kit. I'd have to call them for a spring rate that matches. ( no adjustable rear shock for cobra from MM ). Only other adjustable rear shock is QA1 and all of theirs are sold out except 1....at JEGS. ( I think MM recommended 225lb springs for the front a while ago ).

I've installed a bunch of UPR kits and have not had any serious issues other than removing caps on struts and wrapping struts with electrical tape to avoid noises. One customer had rubbing issues with 14 inch springs ( rubbed the strut ).

Anyone have real world experience with coilovers ?

I used to be against them because of the transfer of weight to the top of the strut tower instead of the frame rail....but....I haven't seen any major issues on street driven or track cars.
 
The last....... :chin fck...I don’t even know, have had a sleeveover strut up front. More often than not it’s been the cheapest Monroe-matic junker I could buy. Almost always, I’ve had to remove the spot welded.....” washer” on topof the strut to get the sleeve to slide over.....After that it’s just a matter of what rate spring.. ( Currently 14/175’s up front)

The rears have been single adjustable Strange, or QA-1’s with 12/125’s for the last three cars, including the current one.

Everything has always worked great.
 
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The last....... :chin fck...I don’t even know, have had a sleeveover strut up front. More often than not it’s been the cheapest Monroe-matic junker I could buy. Almost always, I’ve had to remove the spot welded.....” washer” on topof the strut to get the sleeve to slide over.....After that it’s just a matter of what rate spring.. ( Currently 14/175’s up front)

The rears have been single adjustable Strange, or QA-1’s with 12/125’s for the last three cars, including the current one.

Everything has always worked great.

Mine are the cheapy Monroe gas magics up front. Maybe I'll order the Strange coilover kit and try with the struts I have first. Sounds like a solid plan.
 
Had a wonderful day at work today. Decided to come home and do this.

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It was a super sketchy operation getting the car this high. I'm using 6 jack stands. Trying to make the turbo car hall of fame without being crushed.

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I managed to get the t5 fluid drained. Slowed down when I saw the several scars on the old driveshaft. Just a bunch of old stuff I forgot about. It didn't vibrate and has held up over the years but the groove is about 1/16ths deep...thats a lot to put over 500hp through. No one has a replacement except CJ Pony...that I'll never deal with again...and JEGs. Their driveshaft has a hybred 1310 to 1330 u joint at the rear flange. I've been searching for a 1330 flange so I can swap it out for the proper bigger u joint.

Also, I realized that I had the driveshaft shortened so the transmission seal would ride in the same exact spot that it did with the solid axle. Don't know why I didn't just change the yoke. It was a little surface corrosion on it so I didn't want it to tear up the seal. Smh. It worked though...never any leaks from there. I seem to remember only having a very little amount of room between the end of the yoke and the seal. We'll find out when I get the new shaft.

Sometimes I just can't remember things the right way. Frustrates the hell out of me. I feel like I remember but my details are all jacked up. Then I look at something and realize what actually happened....like I wasn't there in the first place. I've been getting better though.

Like just now....why would I buy a 1330 flange when I already have one on the trashed one thats coming out of the car.
 
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