Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

stanglx2002 said:

I wouldn't put bondo on those, but a couple coats of primer filler would be better solution IMO

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I saw a show where the fab guy used body filler to smooth some stuff similar to these. Does seem a little overkill now to think about it. I've got some spot glaze putty and some primer laying around somewhere. To be honest they probably wouldn't look bad just hit with some primer and semi gloss black.

....I could be over thinking again....

Got this far tonight....

The bolt treatment went well. Used old engine oil and a torch. People say Wesson oil can be used in a metal container in the oven until bolts change color. It will be more of a brown instead of black. Oven temp at 450°. I've never done this...and the wife was dead set against me using the oven.

Today was a good day...after fighting the metal return line at the rack for 5 hours. Smh The line was locked up and stupid hard to get to. After I finally removed it I had to heat it with the torch, soak it repeatedly with wd40, and smack it 1000 times with a hammer. That b#t*h finally gave in to its master. I'll post pics tomorrow about that.

The lines are ran for the EPS and only bleeding the system is left. The new line worked out great. The AC compressor is back in its place and everything looks much better.

No more rusty water pump bolts.



Now, what to do with all this new found space ?



The 90° oil filter adapter I got was for a vehicle with an oil cooler. These are the most popular at the JY. Everyone says you can't use them...but I have proven that to be a lie. The threads got ground out of one part down to .902 of an inch...then that long arse adapter got cut down to where .146 protruded out of the end of the center bolt thingy. Three holes got drilled in that with a small drill bit down into the bushing and counter sunk with a larger one ( can't remember sizes )...the last bit was 1/4 inch ( maybe ) . The trusty welder was brought out and welded those three holes up locking that bushing in place. I'll give some pics of the carnage tomorrow. After doing all that cleaning, grinding, welding, filing, and cussing this is all I took a pic of.



I'm here to tell you a 90° oil filter adapter for an oil cooler can fit on a fox if you're willing to do some work. Fabricating that adapter was quicker that fixing the PS return line. All you need is a digital micrometer and a Dremel with a sanding barrel.

The spacers for the PS delete should be 3.5 and 4 inches. I ended up using a couple washers on mine. The new belt should be a 405k6 routed on the right side of the water pump or a 365k6 or 370k6 routed on the left side of the WP. Local store has 405k6 in stock for about 16 buckaroos. So glad I didn't spend 70 bucks on spacers...or 130 bucks for a 90° adapter. I'm in both things for less than 40 bucks...way less.

Taking the kid shooting in the AM. He got a crossbow for Christmas and I think I'll let him squeeze some rounds through the AR. They're only kids once.

Dayco belts go by inches...my old belt was 790k6 and 79 inches long so new belt has to be 14 or 14.5 inches shorter...that would be around a 650k6...not 390. I was tired.

Welp... another day almost gone.

Grinding the threads our if the adapter bolt is pretty easy. The valleys of the threads are almost exactly where you need to stop. Use a bunch of caution taking the threads out and grinding down the welds on the outside. The fit is like a bearing and has tight clearance in the housing. Pressurized oil runs in and out of it. I took my time with the mic and the dremel sander checking as I went for low or high spots. Tested today with water and mine looks good to go.

This is the Chopped up extension for the cooler..



This is my new bolt with flash rust included from rinsing



The welds aren't the best but it's all I could do with Flux core. Didn't want to cause a distortion or jack up the threads inside



The reason it's so hard to find an adapter is because they are a mix of metric and standard thread. The part that screws on the oil filter standard...inner threads of the bolt are metric.

I checked clearance with the mic, water, and light. Everything looks good to go.





The o ring for the bolt is unabtanium. Discontinued by Ford. Found a new one for the base to the block in a universal kit at Advance...but no listing on a new one for the bolt. The old one looks OK though so I put a little " right stuff " in the groove and rolled with it. There's a tab on the adapter that is supposed to catch a rib on the block buy positioning that way interferes with our long arse oil pressure tube thing. Rotated it down just a hair ahead of the rib and it's all good. I'll get a FL1A filter as soon as I know there are no leaks or issues. Haven't started the car yet. I must admit that with almost 100psi cold I'm a little nervous. Might have to add an oil pressure cut off switch.

The 650k6 belt was perfect...



This was fun for him...



This was scary....



...Ya see why I didn't bake those bolts in her oven...

Flushed the system and the EPS works with no leaks. All my modifications and fixes worked. Still need to get to the JY to dissect one. Gotta grab a couple more of these things and some more 90° adapters.

eighty5fox said:

What ps fluid did you use?

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I flushed it with prestone " safe for ALL models " and then added European prestone ...chf fluid.

The clear prestone that works is in a bottle that says " All Models " on the front of the bottle. I had the CHF already so used it. The Volvo spec is CHF 11. The electric pump seals act badly to the Mercon.....but Mercon seals should be fine with HCF.

Here's another project I want to get done. Installing lights in the foot wells and trunk. These lights came from Dodge tag lights. Looks easy to modify brackets for them due to the locking tap design and that they sit on top of the surface instead of in a recess. These things are LED but have smooth faces. Thinking about adding some yellow turn signal repair tape to them to bring them closer to the dome light color. I'm no big fan of bright white LED light. I like the warmer hue of incandescent bulbs.



They are all exactly the same. Grooves on the inside of the lens direct and spread out the light. It causes you to only be able to see the chips from one direction. I need another fuse box for the interior stuff. It's in the works.

Maybe I'll leave them white...I don't know...I don't want them really yellow either.

In 12 years we've never had an argument. I know when to shut the hell up. She knows how much I'm worth dead and I don't wanna press my luck. Her family is even scarier...they're from Italy.

Monkeybutt2000 said:

That looks like an M&P 15-22. If so,I have one and I love that thing

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Exactly, it's the ole ladies for her and the kiddo. It's a bunch of fun. Mine are a bit louder and rounds are way more expensive. No toying around with those.