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dynoed the stang

  • Thread starter Thread starter jawsgt
  • Start date Start date Jan 15, 2006
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jawsgt

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Sep 27, 2004
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Jan 15, 2006
#1
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #1
im really upset with wut she layed down, 172 hp @ 3800 and 251 tq pretty much from 1700 rpms untill about 4k. of course it was at my buddies shop which is nothing but fbodies there so i heard it from them. but i am suprised it ran a 14.7 with that little of power. btw its bone stock with a 144k on the odemeter. it took forever to rev all the way up. over 20 seconds, damn 2.73's. once it hits about 4500 it just doesnt wanna pull at all. we were shuttin it down at 5500 where the speedo was readin a 149 mph lol.
 

2L8ULUZ2

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#2
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #2
jawsgt said:
im really upset with wut she layed down, 172 hp @ 3800 and 251 tq pretty much from 1700 rpms untill about 4k. of course it was at my buddies shop which is nothing but fbodies there so i heard it from them. but i am suprised it ran a 14.7 with that little of power. btw its bone stock with a 144k on the odemeter. it took forever to rev all the way up. over 20 seconds, damn 2.73's. once it hits about 4500 it just doesnt wanna pull at all. we were shuttin it down at 5500 where the speedo was readin a 149 mph lol.
Click to expand...


Those numbers are not all that bad since the car has over 100k on it and you have to remember that it is only rated at 215hp / 300tq from the factory.
 

Guero

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Oct 11, 2005
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#3
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #3
2L8ULUZ2 said:
Those numbers are not all that bad since the car has over 100k on it and you have to remember that it is only rated at 215hp / 300tq from the factory.
Click to expand...
So you loose power the more mileage it has?
 
9

95mustang_gt

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Mar 30, 2005
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#4
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #4
auto or 5speed?
 

Black95GTS

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Jan 8, 2004
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Jan 15, 2006
#5
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #5
jawsgt said:
im really upset with wut she layed down, 172 hp @ 3800 and 251 tq pretty much from 1700 rpms untill about 4k. of course it was at my buddies shop which is nothing but fbodies there so i heard it from them. but i am suprised it ran a 14.7 with that little of power. btw its bone stock with a 144k on the odemeter. it took forever to rev all the way up. over 20 seconds, damn 2.73's. once it hits about 4500 it just doesnt wanna pull at all. we were shuttin it down at 5500 where the speedo was readin a 149 mph lol.
Click to expand...

Don't be dissapointed, 14.7 on a bone stock stang is good driving! And who cares about the peaks??? It's all about area under the curves. And about that revving issue, thats the biggest difference I noticed when I swapped intakes, that the car had NO problems revving to redline.

Adam
 

HGFireHazard

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Jan 15, 2006
#6
  • Jan 15, 2006
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After I put a new exhaust on my car (as in the sig) it took it up to redline and wanted more... but I didn't give it any, lol. Bone stock just like the others said isn't absolutely horrible for that mileage, however I would think you should have a little more under there. Have you been on schedule with your tune ups and such?
 
I

igotyofire

Member
Feb 26, 2004
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Southern California
Jan 15, 2006
#7
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #7
Guero said:
So you loose power the more mileage it has?
Click to expand...

all piston based engines have piston rings, those piston rings seal the area between the piston and the cyclynder wall. After wear and tear the rings start failing and this causes blowby for one...but also causes lower compression due to it not being able to keep a seal on things. Less fuel mixture being compressed = less power, because air+fuel and compression is what hp is anyways. Now there is other things that affect power ofcourse but this is why a high mileage motor may seem tired
 

GRGT1994

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Sep 22, 2004
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#8
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Your HP indicates 20% down from the stock HP rating at the crank when new. With an automatic, that is right on. With a T5 you might expect something like 15% to 17% loss from the crank rating to the rear wheel rating.

So you are sitting, actually, very good for a stock car. Should be a great platform to mod, and quiet those F-body boys - at least a bit.
 

Guero

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whats the compresion on a stock 5.0. and how you check?
 

super302

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May 29, 2004
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Jan 15, 2006
#10
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #10
Guero said:
whats the compresion on a stock 5.0. and how you check?
Click to expand...
you need a special tool, somebody correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe you want around 160psi+/cylinder
 
L

lietuvis91

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Aug 4, 2004
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NO, LA
Jan 15, 2006
#11
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #11
i think your power is ok, cuz my stang is a 5-spd and w/ 50k miles on it it dynoed 180hp and 234 tq so i think you're just fine, especialy w/ all those miles.
 

69clark

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Sep 25, 2002
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Jan 15, 2006
#12
  • Jan 15, 2006
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Maybe I'm a little behind but I think/hope Guero is only kidding.
 
1

1SLO306

My 97 GTP owns you ALL!
Mar 31, 2005
904
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Muhlenberg, ky
Jan 16, 2006
#13
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #13
lietuvis91 said:
i think your power is ok, cuz my stang is a 5-spd and w/ 50k miles on it it dynoed 180hp and 234 tq so i think you're just fine, especialy w/ all those miles.
Click to expand...
Thats sucky. car must have been beat them 50k miles.

i thought it was 220bhp???
 

CManT1914

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Feb 5, 2004
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Killeen, Texas
Jan 16, 2006
#14
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #14
super302 said:
you need a special tool, somebody correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe you want around 160psi+/cylinder
Click to expand...

You need a compression guage. They're around $20 at parts stores. You thread one end into the spark plug hole, disconnect the coil, fuel pump, or anything to prevent the motor from starting. Then crank the motor over 5 or 6 times while holding the throttle wide open.

There is no set number, though most of our stangs are around 160psi or so. The more important thing is to have a relatively close relationship between all 8 cylinders. For instance, if cylinders 1, 2, and 4 are 160, while 3 is 120, cylinder 3 has a problem.
 
G

Green 94 5.0

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Jan 16, 2006
#15
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #15
your numbers are about right on for a stock car with mileage that high. you have to remember, an advertised horsepower rating for a vehicle is measured at the motor, not after you have experienced power loss through the drivetrain.
 

Cobra_Dusten

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Aug 7, 2005
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Marysville, Wa
Jan 16, 2006
#16
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #16
blake89stang said:
Thats sucky. car must have been beat them 50k miles.

i thought it was 220bhp???
Click to expand...

That 220Hp is flywheel hp, you have to subtract for drivetrain loss, or approx 17%. 220 x .83 = 182HP, which is right where he said he was.
 

Guero

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#17
  • Jan 16, 2006
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69clark said:
Maybe I'm a little behind but I think/hope Guero is only kidding.
Click to expand...
Kidding about what?
 
J

jawsgt

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Sep 27, 2004
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ohio
Jan 20, 2006
#18
  • Jan 20, 2006
  • #18
so wut should i expect with a systemax kit, long tubes, off road x-pipe and 4.10's. hp tq and et's
 

GRGT1994

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Sep 22, 2004
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#19
  • Jan 20, 2006
  • #19
jawsgt said:
so wut should i expect with a systemax kit, long tubes, off road x-pipe and 4.10's. hp tq and et's
Click to expand...
An empty wallet?
 

CManT1914

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Feb 5, 2004
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Jan 20, 2006
#20
  • Jan 20, 2006
  • #20
GRGT1994 said:
An empty wallet?
Click to expand...

LMAO!! That's the best answer anybody could give you!

Seriously though, most h/c/i kits will get you pretty close to the 300rwhp, especially with LT's. I bet you'd see 300 at the wheels. Torque, probably 320? The ET's all depend on your suspension and driving.
 
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