e303 cam w/ stock heads?

I put the E-cam in my car, and I would have to say intake and/or heads should be first. I was supposed to have an intake, but I got screwed. So now my car just idles like trash and has no torque till about 2400 rpms. Yaaaaaaayyy

yeah im going with these guys, an e cam may not be the best on the market, but it is far from junk

the e cam is a great cam for a mild street buildup. i don't care what anybody says.
i'm ditching mine for a FTI real soon.

LOL u guys are crazy. Snoozer is going 12.9@105 with an e cam, stock heads, gt40 intake and 70mm tbody. I would say its worth it

I have the E-303 cam with mildly ported stock heads. The intake ports were opened up and gasket matched. The exhaust ports were "dressed up" slightly. I did not remove the EGR bump, but I cleaned up the casting junk with the mill. I had the heads shaved, new seats and an angle valve job. I used roller rockers also. I also ported the intake, upper (gasket matched and up appx 2in) and lower. I am amazed at the difference in the car. I have no idle problems (using IAC spacer to cure the problems) the power is so much more than I expected. I love the idle (950-1000 RPM in Park) and that claim of no power until 2500 is just not how mine is. I say if your on a budget it is a great cam.

yellow1995Cobra said:

LOL u guys are crazy. Snoozer is going 12.9@105 with an e cam, stock heads, gt40 intake and 70mm tbody. I would say its worth it

Click to expand...

He's also using a 302 block built by Bennett Racing. I don't recall what was done to it though.

With the mileage on your car and the valve springs being 10 years old I would hold off. Plus the front of the motor has to stripped down. Why not just do it all at once anyway.

article in MM&FF double turbo junk yard 5.0 E303 cam went high 10's must not be tooo bad of a cam to keep up with 30lbs of boost and put down 10's while doing it.

VibrantRedGT said:

He's also using a 302 block built by Bennett Racing. I don't recall what was done to it though.

With the mileage on your car and the valve springs being 10 years old I would hold off. Plus the front of the motor has to stripped down. Why not just do it all at once anyway.

Click to expand...

no sir

I have a D&D block. its just stock internals with fox body forged pistons. and they are fly cut so I lost compression over stock. so this is not a factor or excuse as to why my car is faster than others. I hate when peopel try to use that as a scape

I actually would suggest not going with the ecam and going with a split duration cam that favors the exhaust and has some RPM to it.

you would get waaaaaaaaay more out of buying a set of P heads for 400 bucks and using stock cam than you woudl buying the e cam and valve springs to jandle it and messing with tuninung it out. I tuned mine myself over a period of months until it idles rock hard. Most have not been so lucky.

you dont really pick up hp with the e cam.... it stays about the same because the E 7s just wont make more than a certain HP with their air flow. you can put a 347 under them and it will still make very close to the same crapy peak, just it will make tyhat power for a long time because the heads will reach its maximum efficiency at a low rpm and just stay flat. yeah it will have torque but thats about it.

what the E does do.....

yes you lose low end torque. Your peak really wont vary much at all. in fact you might gain a few or lose a couple... not that its a notable difference.
Your car will pull really well on the highway in 4th. gives you thats umph against mild ls1s and lt1s
The cam really kicks as you get close to 3k. if you have traction problems and are on street tires... this will take out some of the spinning and let you get out of the hole if you know how to play a bog in your favor.

It gives you more RPM to play with.
you get a lovely sound


note: this dyno was with 1100 on the motor. it has obviously loosened up in 22K miles. I would like to redyno it, but seems like no point until my next round of mods. I do know that my friends car is 100+ pounds lighter he has gt40s with an ecam and trick flow intake long tubes TB maf prochamber mac catback.4.10s etc etc.... my car is faster than his. pulles harderon the street and traps higher at the track. and its not driving difference. his dyno is after mine.
Me



Cliffnotes: Get P heads instead of a cam and springs. The torque you will love, and will move your car.

dont expect to run what I run. 1. i drive the crap out of the car 1. you wont be near my weight. or traps

hey go with the e-cam, get the p heads, and get a small stroker kit. I have that same setup. GT 40 upper and lower, lower ported and polished to the balls. GT40P's with 1.94/1.54 valves, double valve springs, and cobra bolt down 1.7 rr's. I'm running an e-303 cam in a 327 stroker with srp pistons,eagle 5.400 rods(h-beam),canton main support and windage tray, and canton 7qt oil pan. I have an AFM PMS, and I'm waiting for the fax. Bottom line is this.I haven't taken the car to the track yet.but when I do, it should be quick. You can make power with an e-303.........oh yeah...juice too!!!

95snoozer said:

no sir

I have a D&D block. its just stock internals with fox body forged pistons. and they are fly cut so I lost compression over stock. so this is not a factor or excuse as to why my car is faster than others. I hate when peopel try to use that as a scape

(

Click to expand...

Never read about anyone saying it was the reason. I just remember it being not 94-95 block stock so relax you've done well with E7's.

Anyways, the author of this post lives two doors down from me. His question was about putting an E cam on stock heads right now. Not a debate as to whether the E cam is the best cam. My reason is merely why take it apart twice (cam then heads) when it can be done in one shot. I think we can all agree that the car would pull harder up top with the cam change. Personally I would wait but it's not up to me.