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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangman16
  • Start date Start date Aug 16, 2007

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Aug 16, 2007
#1
  • Aug 16, 2007
  • #1
Has anyone used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on your classic stang? The instructions say you don't have to topcoat this, but I'm curious to know if you did or not. If you did not - how is it holding up? And if you did, what did you topcoat it with? (and does that require priming as well?)

Thanks!
 

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Aug 16, 2007
#2
  • Aug 16, 2007
  • #2
I am using eastwoods three step process of converter Encapsulator and “chassis black on the bottom/frame” or rattle can on the inside. The Encapsulator is a primer and is compatible with most paints if used per the instructions. I for one like it better than the POR15 for ease of use and performance.
 
B

Blu-Steel

Member
Dec 29, 2006
92
0
7
Waynesville, MO
Aug 16, 2007
#3
  • Aug 16, 2007
  • #3
I used it to spay hidden areas that were never covered in paint or primer, like under the dash, package tray etc... For those areas I used the gray encapsulator because it looks like bare steel. When I look under my dask it looks factory new. I also used it on other areas that I couldn't get completely stripped, like floor pans, inside doors. Some of those areas I sprayed over with enamel or Extreme Chassis Black, because rust encapsulator doesn't like lacquer, it tends to crack under lacquer. Overall I have been very impressed with their rust encapsulator. I even did my own test and took an old rusty piece of metal with some samll rust through holes and wire brushed one side and left the other as is, sprayed both sides with encapsulator and the topcoated with white (so I can see if it rusts better) and leaft it outside all fall, winter and summer. After all that time the only signs of rust were where the holes were and they were very small and light. Given all of the outdoor exposure, rain, snow and sun I was very impressed with the performance. All of the places I sprayed on my car look just like th eday I sprayed them, about 8 months ago.
 

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Aug 16, 2007
#4
  • Aug 16, 2007
  • #4
I'm using this for my cowl vent areas, so I want to be sure I only do this once After applying the rust encapsulator to bare metal and also to the sanded down metal, I should then apply a topcoat onto it? No primer is needed ontop of the encapsulator before topcoating?

I only have access to an aerosol can for topcoating, but does it matter which aerosol I use for that? Krylon?

I appreciate the replies! thanks!
 

Taranis

New Member
Nov 12, 2004
92
1
0
Austin, Texas
Aug 16, 2007
#5
  • Aug 16, 2007
  • #5
I put some RE on my fender aprons after I finished together the front end of my 69 and there's some rust creep happening there now. I don't know what's going on.

Of course, I'm in the middle of a move and can't really focus on that right now.
 
B

Blu-Steel

Member
Dec 29, 2006
92
0
7
Waynesville, MO
Aug 17, 2007
#6
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #6
I did my cowl vent caps with rust encapsulator and I also installed plastic cowl caps. My old vent caps were completely rusted hrough so I used a cut off wheel and cut them down but left about 1/3" lip, then scraped off and blew out what rust I could get to (I had my fenders off so I was also able to reach through there). Then instead of the spray on encapsulator I used the brush on one with a rag and smeared it all around the top side vent area. Once that dried I used a lot of silicon around the vent caps and slid them in there. On the pasanger side I drilled some holes and used short sheet metal screws to hold the cap permamently in place and on the driver side I used the existing studs and nuts to hold the cap in while the silicon dried. I didn't top coat the rust encapsulator because it is a pretty durable top coat in its own right and the only reason to top coat it would be if it was a visible part that needed to be a certain color.
 

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Aug 17, 2007
#7
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #7
Excellent, so the conclusion is that there is no top coat needed (since this is not a visible area)

Thanks!
 
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