Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

What is your idle rpm at ? Might need to tweak it up a little. The tps will need to be set again after that. You'd be surprised what a couple hundred rpm can do. Definitely check for vacuum leaks though.
 
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With the engine idling and warm spray brake cleaner around the base of the intake gasket and where the upper and lower intake meet. Also any vacuum lines including the vacuum tree and the plastic lines that run along the firewall. Around the brake booster and the throttle body and egr plate. Test the egr to see if it holds vacuum.
Oh, have you checked for codes?
 
With the engine idling and warm spray brake cleaner around the base of the intake gasket and where the upper and lower intake meet. Also any vacuum lines including the vacuum tree and the plastic lines that run along the firewall. Around the brake booster and the throttle body and egr plate. Test the egr to see if it holds vacuum.
Oh, have you checked for codes?
Haven’t checked codes but I can surely do that. So with brake fluid I just spray it on there and I’m guessing look for bubbles?
 
Picked up a brand new eibach rear sway bar off FB market for 120 so couldn’t pass. Slapped that sucker in last night and started to snoop around the engine bay to see if I could find anything out of the ordinary. I think @General karthief asked about the egr valve then remembered last night I deleted and blocked it off as well as all the smog stuff. I found this vacuum line to which I’m not sure what it’s for but maybe it was hooked to the egr? You can see the line and it runs back behind the brake booster. I also noticed this plug on the back of the lower intake, I am not sure if I knocked it out or if it was already out but i plugged it back in and it’s not very secure it just easily flops out with out any effort. @90sickfox asked about my idle and since I’ve gotten it back from the tune it’s always idled right at 1k, will hold at that and doesn’t fluctuate. My next step will be to try and spray the brake cleaner around the intake etc and see what happens. I checked the codes and what I got was 15, 67 o, 85 o, 10, 29c, 66c, 96c. From what I gather the first 3 are the key on codes found, then 10 is meaning the end of what it found and last 3 are constant memory codes found. Like I said car starts and runs fine, I can run out and cruise for awhile then I’ll get to a random light, sit in neutral idling and I can just tell it’s gonna happen. It will idle funny, kinda fluctuate, I’ll here this loud whistle sound and it will turn off, unless I rev it and get moving again then it runs and drives and at this point I try and time lights so I make it through them and get back home. Could it be a heat soak issue with the tfi? I’ve seen more ppl doing these tfi relocation kits.
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Guess that could be idk I don’t run my wipers and only reason the motor is back in it’s place is bc I was gonna reconnect it for inspection.
And the connector went to the EGR valve that’s no longer there, from what I can see.... or is it the other end of your TPS harness. Hard to tell if the other half of TPS is there in the pic.
 
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That thing in the last few pics is the pcv valve and should be stuck into the lower intake it goes down in the center between the firewall and the upper intake. That being out can cause issues. The replacement grommets don't fit well at all.
 
That thing in the last few pics is the pcv valve and should be stuck into the lower intake it goes down in the center between the firewall and the upper intake. That being out can cause issues. The replacement grommets don't fit well at all.
Yeah it’s not the original, I ordered a new one when I swapped intakes and like I said it’s not tight. It easily just comes out, not snug at all.
 
Did you say you had it 'tuned'?
Does it have cruise control?
The rubber grommet for the pcv looks kinda oily, clean it and use some rtv to seal it back into its hole, also check the screen under it.
Yup it was tuned and has a SCT chip in it. I took it to a shop and they then took it for me out to McKinney tx at True street motorsports. I do have cruise control but since I swapped to a momo wheel that is gone now but I didn’t do anything but take the old airbag wheel off and put this one on after the tune was done. So rtv the grommet ok bc that think literally isn’t snug at all which I would guess it’s suppose to be. I noticed it seemed oily as well, is that bad?
 
Reddevil91 said:
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Picked up a brand new eibach rear sway bar off FB market for 120 so couldn’t pass. Slapped that sucker in last night and started to snoop around the engine bay to see if I could find anything out of the ordinary. I think @General karthief asked about the egr valve then remembered last night I deleted and blocked it off as well as all the smog stuff. I found this vacuum line to which I’m not sure what it’s for but maybe it was hooked to the egr? You can see the line and it runs back behind the brake booster. I also noticed this plug on the back of the lower intake, I am not sure if I knocked it out or if it was already out but i plugged it back in and it’s not very secure it just easily flops out with out any effort. @90sickfox asked about my idle and since I’ve gotten it back from the tune it’s always idled right at 1k, will hold at that and doesn’t fluctuate. My next step will be to try and spray the brake cleaner around the intake etc and see what happens. I checked the codes and what I got was 15, 67 o, 85 o, 10, 29c, 66c, 96c. From what I gather the first 3 are the key on codes found, then 10 is meaning the end of what it found and last 3 are constant memory codes found. Like I said car starts and runs fine, I can run out and cruise for awhile then I’ll get to a random light, sit in neutral idling and I can just tell it’s gonna happen. It will idle funny, kinda fluctuate, I’ll here this loud whistle sound and it will turn off, unless I rev it and get moving again then it runs and drives and at this point I try and time lights so I make it through them and get back home. Could it be a heat soak issue with the tfi? I’ve seen more ppl doing these tfi relocation kits.
99AD615D-C3A9-4762-8732-C9A7DD2BFAFE.jpeg
685775FC-4FF3-4E97-9024-3BE7845ABDBE.jpeg
37CB72BF-2E15-43A8-A26A-2E25C7284AFE.jpeg

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The hose is for your windshield washer bottle that is inside the drivers fender. The yellowish connector connects to a second hose which runs up to the squirter that squirts the fluid to your windshield.

The electrical plug in the last picture is for the EGR which you've removed and blocked off so tuck that away out of sight.

And like others have said that black vacuum line to the plastic pvc valve has to be in the lower intake... so I would use a little rtv to keep it in place.

I'm not sold on the issue being a vacuum leak though.. If it were a vacuum leak it wouldn't just pop up once in a while it would be constant.

If you had a tune done I wonder why your car has to idle at 1000 rpms... it should be a few hundred less