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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

egr broke

  • Thread starter Thread starter wlink1
  • Start date Start date Apr 26, 2007

wlink1

Banned
Apr 12, 2007
69
0
0
Winston Salem
Apr 26, 2007
#1
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #1
I broke my egr trying to change the passenger side valve cover. All I did was barely move it an the tube that runs down between the headers broke?? What can I do to fix it?? Also do you have to take the metal coolant lines out to get the PS VC off?
 

parchisi

New Member
Apr 13, 2006
519
1
0
New Mexico
Apr 26, 2007
#2
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #2
Replace it with a new one I guess, or weld it if you can. Personally, I don't need to take off the metal coolant lines to take off the VC, but your motor could be different.
 

True 5.0

Member
Sep 22, 2006
237
0
17
Southeastern Wisconsin
Apr 26, 2007
#3
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #3
The type of rocker you have will determine if you need to remove the heater pipe to get the cover off. I have the Cobra 1.7 rockers and I do.

If you can save the flare nuts, you can make a new pipe using 1/2" soft copper pipe. The nuts are metric and are nearly impossible to find. I had to make a new one for my TFS intake combo and I made a new one from stainless steel tubing.
 
9

94comp

New Member
May 23, 2006
22
0
0
Macomb, Michigan
Apr 26, 2007
#4
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #4
Def.. Weld It shut. You got the opportunity. Go EGR Delete.
 

DarkProphet

Founding Member
Aug 19, 2002
391
0
0
Quakertown, PA
Apr 26, 2007
#5
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #5
I too run no EGR, but I do have a custom tune with egr turned off in the computer... If you don't get the computer re tuned, it will add in timing for the egr, which could potentally lead to detonation...
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Apr 27, 2007
#6
  • Apr 27, 2007
  • #6
I'd go with making a new one from the 1/2" flexible copper pipe like True 5.0 recommended. I did exactly that when I did my H/C/I, because the factory one wouldn't reach with the adapter, and trying to bend it slightly caused it to break. Just cut the flared ends off your factory one, so you can use them with the copper. Slip the factory nuts on, slide the flared ends on, slide a feril between the factory flared ends and the copper, and tighten away. You'll have a leak free tube that works every bit as good as the stock one.
 
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