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Engine compartment wiring question (67)

  • Thread starter Thread starter mfp4073
  • Start date Start date Nov 11, 2004

mfp4073

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2001
387
0
38
Hells Ditch, FL
Nov 11, 2004
#1
  • Nov 11, 2004
  • #1
If i am looking at it correctly, if I want to replace the pigtail that plugs into the solinoid. But to do this, its the entire front end wiring harness correct?

Several of the connections are in bad shape and the wire is hard and cracking...if I am right that is an expensive chunk of wire.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Nov 12, 2004
#2
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #2
mfp4073 said:
If i am looking at it correctly, if I want to replace the pigtail that plugs into the solinoid. But to do this, its the entire front end wiring harness correct?

Several of the connections are in bad shape and the wire is hard and cracking...if I am right that is an expensive chunk of wire.
Click to expand...

what wire is bad? start or ignition?
 

mfp4073

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2001
387
0
38
Hells Ditch, FL
Nov 12, 2004
#3
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #3
WORTH said:
what wire is bad? start or ignition?
Click to expand...

There are several at the solinoid that I am not real fond of. One of the circular connectors on the positive side of the solinoid broke off (I can just put another one on if I have to) and both the push on ones are cracked and missing parts of thier boots.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Nov 12, 2004
#4
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #4
mfp4073 said:
There are several at the solinoid that I am not real fond of. One of the circular connectors on the positive side of the solinoid broke off (I can just put another one on if I have to) and both the push on ones are cracked and missing parts of thier boots.
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly that is the end of the underhood harness, So it wouldn't be to tough to cut it back a few inches inside the harness and splice in new ends. A little shrinkwrap works wonders. IF you can't find the plugin terminals, justuse a ring terminal and put a nut on the studs.
 

mfp4073

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2001
387
0
38
Hells Ditch, FL
Nov 12, 2004
#5
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #5
Yeah, can do that, but was hoping for an easier fix! Thanks!!!
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Nov 12, 2004
#6
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #6
Personal opinion...if the insulation is hard or cracked REPLACE it, do not splice it, wrap it, or otherwise band-aid-fix it. The cost of new wiring is really cheap compared with the cost of repairing fire damage.
 

mfp4073

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2001
387
0
38
Hells Ditch, FL
Nov 12, 2004
#7
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #7
Yeah, looking at options. I agree, I would much rather replace it with something fresh. New harnesses are expensive though.
 

65fsbkhipo

Founding Member
Jul 6, 2001
1,296
0
0
Tampa, FL
Nov 12, 2004
#8
  • Nov 12, 2004
  • #8
This is what you need but depends on w/tach and w/GT:

Product ID: C7ZZ-14290-A
1967, Headlamp Wiring Harness.

Connects to Firewall near master cylinder, runs along driver side inner fender, across radiator support. Connects headlamps, parking lamps, horns, voltage regulator, solenoid and plugs into alternator harness. NOTE: 67-70 does not include headlamp extension.

List Price: $164.95
FM Price: $149.95
 

mfp4073

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2001
387
0
38
Hells Ditch, FL
Nov 13, 2004
#9
  • Nov 13, 2004
  • #9
Problem is I have A LOT of other places to put $150 right now.....grrrr.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
1
56
North Carolina
Nov 13, 2004
#10
  • Nov 13, 2004
  • #10
Yup, $150-$200 depending on where you buy it. As someone else mentioned, the headlamp extensions are not included, but sold separately. Chances are that the wiring that runs in front of your radiator are just as bad, if not worse. This harness will fix all of that. Just be glad you don't need the underdash harness like me that is close to $500.00, not including the harness to the gauges!
 
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