Engine Engine Rebuild

Gr8Nate said:

Hey guys! I'm trying to rebuild my Ford v6 232 Small Block, but i'm having trouble locating the right parts. I don't want any stock parts. Any suggestions? Thanks!

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Hi,
I’m uncertain if you mean you’re seeking high performance parts (Steel rods, Forged Pistons, etc) to handle power adders , Turbo/Supercharger, Cam, etc, or you’re just seeking out better than stock parts for build longevity?
If the latter, you can get great OE equivalent or even upgraded internal components from RockAuto.com that will give you 100’s of thousands of solid running mileage- even with a mild build.
If you’re going for more HP/TQ, if you have targets, I can help you with what components you need to get there. Do you have a target HP/TQ plan and parts desired you’re seeking?
Best!
John

Gr8Nate said:

I'm looking to get the most out of that engine, so performance parts are desired. Somewhere close to 300HP if the engine allows. Looking for the best parts at a good price.

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Hi,
Looking for an NA app with Cam, Heads, Intake etc, or seeking FI? Stock year of the block, 300RWHP or 300 Gross (Crank HP)?
Parts required is best based on whether FI or an NA app, what year the block is.
Your motor bone stock won’t have to go to extremes regarding the Crank providing its sonic tested for cracks, the Rods are something it would be best to get away from OE’s powdered metal rods with 5/16”studs. Crank will be fine being stock for that HP level providing the assembly is balanced.
Seeking high RPM NA EFI (or Carbed) power, or FI?
There’s a few trusted spots to get parts from in a package so the guesswork is taken out of it, I’d suggest that route, does keep costs down.
Have a local machine shop to do the balancing and machinework?
Bottom end Studded with girdles & a windage will keep it in place and rigid, many years came this way stock. All weighted and balanced is absolutely preferenced.
I guess where would to buy what from would be from where is whether built as NA or FI , what year the engine is...Id take a look at Supercsix Motorsports, they make some good components and kits (including strokers).
Best!
-John
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/

08GT500 said:

Hi,
Looking for an NA app with Cam, Heads, Intake etc, or seeking FI? Stock year of the block, 300RWHP or 300 Gross (Crank HP)?
Parts required is best based on whether FI or an NA app, what year the block is.
Your motor bone stock won’t have to go to extremes regarding the Crank providing its sonic tested for cracks, the Rods are something it would be best to get away from OE’s powdered metal rods with 5/16”studs. Crank will be fine being stock for that HP level providing the assembly is balanced.
Seeking high RPM NA EFI (or Carbed) power, or FI?
There’s a few trusted spots to get parts from in a package so the guesswork is taken out of it, I’d suggest that route, does keep costs down.
Have a local machine shop to do the balancing and machinework?
Bottom end Studded with girdles & a windage will keep it in place and rigid, many years came this way stock. All weighted and balanced is absolutely preferenced.
I guess where would to buy what from would be from where is whether built as NA or FI , what year the engine is...Id take a look at Supercsix Motorsports, they make some good components and kits (including strokers).
Best!
-John
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/

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Hi,
No problem! Are you thinking NA or FI? That is really what the Crank hinges on. Great motors!
Any work (time) that you do will keep the costs down in the shop, they’ll need the Heads, the main Caps w/Bolts, Heads if you’re planning on running them, and the Crank if you’re seeking to use it. Have the boil the block and tank the crank, then magnafluxed or sonic checked- great insurance.
Also your balancer and Flywheel/Flexplate for balancing.(5 speed?).
Order parts once they let you know what’s salvageable, and any boring or crank cutting for proper bearing sizes.
Bag and label your parts and fasteners.
All disassembled. The more they need to do, the more it costs. They know how to build it. Sending them it with your pistons, bearings, rods, pump, and all the extra’s will cost you unnecessary $$. Are You planning on self reassembly? If you want them to boil some other parts, keep it separate from the rest.
You can always have them finish the Shortblock, and do the Cam degreeing and all other front & topend yourself, to keep costs down, if you’re comfortable with that.
John

Hi,
The best way to get that HP/TQ is by far, FI. It’s going to be much more street friendly, and will have strong power throughout the RPM range. Torque is best traded for top end HP if it’s going to hit the street. Good Dyno tune. Stroker kit. withstroker, things will come easier. Just stuff to think about. A stock Crank will handle 350HP MAX (100% perfect).
iSo I’d aim for the 300 Crank HP, 10-15% drivetrain loss will be 350HP to get 300RWHP and you’ll need a Nodular Iron or forges Crank, Good SIR’s w/3/8” ARP fasteners, lighter, stronger (Forged) Pistons. Either way, you’ll want a main stud girdle,Windage tray, and ARP Main studs installed.
So, no Turbo or Supercharger, yes-you can make 300WHP/Tq with the right combo. It’s going to need a heck of a stall converter, & It’s going to be a little lopey and power will be unstable/lacking during street (City) driving-won’t peg you to the seat below 3,500RPM’s, will have little vacuum at an idle & may need a booster for accessories. Power will be hard to find at low RPM’s Need to get a big Radiator with Fan(s), Tranny Cooler- may wish to go larger, independent.
Will come on like a freight train when power does, more like a 2 stroke dirt bike than a Car. Cam grinder will tell you where it’ll make its power, you want the widest power curve you can get, so get good- high flowing heads, but not too big or your vacuum signal will worsen at low RPM’s,if internal balancing is within the budget- then I would absolutely seek it out.
While the motor is out, have your
Trans rebuilt with some solid parts, balance the driveshaft, put a loop around it- it’s a cheap but effective safety measure. Don’t overlook Brakes, Tires, sway bars, steering components,.
I’d run some 3.73’s or better- 4.10’svin the rear. You’ll rev 400RPM’s higher at 80mph, but the car, with NA deep breathing capabilities, will run better overall at lower rpms- best mod you can make.
But, if you go for 300 Crank HP (Gross), you’ll make that quite easily, and you can snap a 50HP NOS shot that’ll really get you moving. 300Crank HP & a NOS shot while you’re moving, 4.10’s, car will be very quick, and you don’t have to do 1/2 of the below.
Little story below to remember when buying remotely, So, off the top of my head- basics you need to think about with a 300WHP build.
1) Custom Cam grind
2) 10.0-10.5:1 CR, 93 Octane Min. (or perhaps an E85 conversion).any higher and it’ll knock without good 93 in (Minimally). It’ll also not like power adding timinhb
3) 30lb injectors
4) 70mm TB
5) High flowing TrickFlow Heads, 2.02/1.60’s
6) Lower stud girdle, windage.
7) Studded Mains
8) Steel H Beams, 3/8” ARP fasteners.Shot premed for stress release.
9) Good Crank & Block Magnafluxed. Sonic tested.
10) 0.030 over, Bored, Honed with torque plates.Forged Pistons are a good idea with a 300WHP target.
11) HV/Adj Pressure Oil Pump. 40-45lbs at idle, hot. Max 75lbs.
12) If you choose to go with a Crank, you can save some money with a Nodular Iron Crank, vs Forged (about 100K Lbs), Forged is around 130K, Cast is about 70K.
13) Best approach for a higher winding motor is Internally balanced vs external. Balanced reciprocating assembly.
Some good reads...

Below references have top notch internal assemblies and parts, 2 of 2 places I “trust”. I had a recent “issue” with a Crank I’d bought at another I still trust. I had them balance to save time & checking it out, it as...well..take a look..not quite right appearing.
They stood behind it as I found the error on my grandfathers machine, took pics, Crank snout was not stamped 28 or 50oz as it should have been. Glad I went in and set it up on the balancer, was out 44OZ & 57OZ(!), Piston weights also varied quite a bit.
Had this been a father & son project it may have had a very different outcome, it would have- without a doubt- wiped & spun 2 bearings on the Front & Rear Journals. Not everyone has free reign over a machine shop to check a Crank that was balanced online for being true.
They stood behind it because I found it when I’d opened the box....you can see they pulled a boatload of material out of the front and rear weights, then plugged in Mallorymetal.
Didn’t expect a new Crank out of it, but I raised holy hel^ over it guessing it would tear itself apart with one mid rpm spin.
Then, they misplaced the Balance sheet.(!)
I was confused, they denied the metal being in it, I sent them the pics, and I received an untouched , steel Scat stroker Crank which I’d internally balanced myself.
I sent this “Swiss Crank” back after I’d already plugged it full of Mallory to pull it back into a 0 balance. So- I received an 800$ Crank for 575$ (less, as they also reversed the 275$ balance charge.
Like I’d said, doesn’t mean they are bad, have received parts before with no issues. A fluke? You decide.
I saw on SN from 04’ a few talked about losing #1 Piston, same Biz (two people did). High rpm- mangled, one wrecked a Brodix head when the piston slammed into it.
I Machine, check, document, take pic’s, mock assemble, plastigage one last time, it gets QC’d by another builder, I then finish assemble, I always did and will balance my own parts, This incident reminded me of why I was taught to, if that motor Grenades, so would...My reputation. It’s My responsibility it’s together correctly.

Moral of the story is not to bash a name, it’s to remind that if you have work done close to home, you can go and see them face to face, otherwise- its a phone call (and I see both sides of this)- who knows what a customer did to it, and vise versa. So, get guarantees in writing, not “You receive and accept it, you own it- period”. So, you buy your parts when you have your clearances, then you give it to the machine shop to re-check the parts tolerances-
Online, it’s the ONLY way to be sure it’s right, an unbiased point of view.
Bought a Ford Perf adjustable Balancer/Damper 50/28/0, and a McLeod 50/28/0 Flywheel & they were both dead on.
https://www.coasthigh.com/

PS, Last picture you can see where the Mallorymetal was correctly installed-horizontally. The holes drilled into the Crank’s
offset weight were 1” in diameter, and 1” deep, except for the holes in the center of the throws, as the Mallorymetal is pressed in below those holes. “Mallory metal” is basically just “Tungsten”, small piece weighs much more than the metal the crank is made of. Got a free Crank out of it,
Talk later, good luck!
-John