No Fault codes. Just dies. Throttle body is new and the Stang was doing it before the change. Brenspeed tune didn't make any difference neither.Any ECU fault codes?
No High pitched whistling, No bucking with the exemption of the Mutha Thumpers, Gauges are fine, Have gotten Bren speed to rewrite program to see if that was the issue. As far as parts, changed the throttle body and had the control box under the hood replaced and reprogrammed by Ford. The problem was there before any of that. Changed fuel filters, changing fuel pump this weekend.@WildFire07 Any high pitched whistling noise coming from under the hood? Does it buck at all under throttle. When did the issue start? How long has it been doing it for. Interior dash have any issues like RPMS bouncing, speedometer not working, odometer not displaying, ect ect. Did you load a tune on there? replace any parts recently. I need to know all of this to better assist.
It was stalling before I put the new throttle body onDid you adjust your throttle body and go through the procedure of calibrating it. Less air means it will stall under load. More load you need more air. If the throttle plate is completely closed your IAC is probably struggling to give your motor enough air to combust.
It would make sense if the car was acting different before i put another Ford Throttle body on and get procedures from Ford performace on what to do.You cant buy a throttle body slap it on there and expect it to run like the factory installed one. A tune wont fix it either. It take air, fuel and spark to properly make a car run. The PCM makes necessary adjustments to hold idle under load but if the car is not right mechanically, like a throttle body being completely closed the pcm might not be able to have enough adjustment to compensate for it. Make sense!
I have checked these things with a meter and gauges, as well as obd reader. Grounds are a pain, but i learned my lesson when one worked loose and blew the battery up on my wife's car. The stuttering is happening without AC on as well. Also at very high speed, fuel pressure has a serious drop during these moments according to OBD reader. I am going to try a fuel pump that I lucked up on for $50 with a one year warranty.When turning on your ac it draws current which would pull power and put load on your car potentially stalling it. Could be a bad battery or even a failing alternator. Check your ground connections on your battery terminals. I had one of my ground terminals crack and didn't realize it until I put a wrench on the nut lossened it up and noticed it was half broke under inspection. My car would randomly stall. Sometimes it would just dim the headlights because the connection wasn't good.
Before everyone goes the Junkyard keeps saying something about a booster pump. What are they talking about?It does sound like a failing fuel pump. I've had the same thing happen on a ford ranger of mine years ago. When I would hit the gas peddle it would stutter, hesitate then continue to go. Replacing the fuel pump will probably fix it. Make sure to replace the fuel filter at the same time.
No just a little more than stock. Dino in around 345 at rear wheel. just enough to give a stock 5.0 a fit. Changed fuel pump and car responds a whole lot better, got one from junk yard. the guys are hardcore performance and tested 4 pumps until they found one they would guarantee.You can technically increase your current fuel pumps output by using a booster pump. Its like a turbo for a car. Increases the pressure. No need for you to get one unless your pushing crazy numbers and needing that extra fuel pressure. Like 800 horses and your current fuel pump isn't cutting it. So people buy a booster pump to increase the pressure to the fuel injectors. Make sense!
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