Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

#3,741
This morning I got the transmission cooler mounted, I removed the fan to make enough space for the AC condenser... I dont think I will have any cooling issues without the fan in stop and go traffic, what do you guys think? With enough finagling I may be able to move the ac condenser toward the radiator but I think it may be more trouble than it's worth.
20190916_093738.jpg

The bottom half of it is directly in the airflow from the bumper, I could drill holes in the bumper cover but I think that would not serve a good enough purpose.
 
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#3,742
That will be plenty of airflow and good size for heat dissipation. Best place for it IMO as you dont have to rely on the fan to come on to make sure the transmission is cooled. I wouldn't go through the hassle of trying to move the A/C condenser towards the radiator as you do want some space between each item. Don't want the radiator heating up the condenser.
 
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#3,743
Talked with the machine shop today to figure out how much wall clearance they gave me... 35 to 40.... that's not that much it's been clearenced for NA for sure...

So I say how much boost do you think can be safely run? Uhh 6psi...

That's it 6psi?

:leghump:.
 
#3,746
I dont do facebook or any other form of social media, I come here to BS with most of you guys on a daily basis. Some of you I have even had the pleasure to meet in person.. I dont often talk about personal stuff and keep to myself about that as a rule but I consider many of you friends.

My wife Shannon and I lost her father today, the congestive heart failure finally took him sometime this morning while we were at work. My wife found him on her lunch break today, we knew it was coming but it's still very hard to deal with a loss of a parent.
He has lived with us for 10 years now and I considered him my father.

R.I.P. John.


I will likely be around through this as I need to keep my mind busy, if you read all this thank you.
 
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#3,750
So sorry for your loss Steve. As always if you need anything just let me know.

I know its a hard thing to go through but if you need some to just ramble on the phone give me a ring anytime.
 
#3,752
I appreciate you guys. truly.

now lets keep this thing on track.. car stuff.

I had a nice talk with Tom today [machinist] he looked on his notes and we figured out he honed the cylinders tighter than a nun on sunday... 3.7 is all i have for clearance, that is tight even for an NA build.... i guess he missed the part where i said it would see boost in a few months after it is broken in..

Now i am at a crossroad, do i continue and slap the thing in the car with the 114lsa cam with 3* of overlap or pull it all the way back apart and delay my build further.. to be honest i am out of money, unless by some grace of luck the umpteen cars i have waiting to be final tuned all pay me at the same time.
 
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#3,753
a91what said:
I appreciate you guys. truly.

now lets keep this thing on track.. car stuff.

I had a nice talk with Tom today [machinist] he looked on his notes and we figured out he honed the cylinders tighter than a nun on sunday... 3.7 is all i have for clearance, that is tight even for an NA build.... i guess he missed the part where i said it would see boost in a few months after it is broken in..

Now i am at a crossroad, do i continue and slap the thing in the car with the 114lsa cam with 3* of overlap or pull it all the way back apart and delay my build further.. to be honest i am out of money, unless by some grace of luck the umpteen cars i have waiting to be final tuned all pay me at the same time.
Click to expand...

You pull it back out. How is it that you discovered your minimal skirt clearance after the whole engine is assembled and in the car?

It's on the machine shop to fix the cylinder wall clearances. If you run that engine as is, you will come to regret it later. If my existing engine only needed a head gasket to be back in running order, I'd probably have it back together right now running, but a couple of the cylinders looked like hell. All dating back to the original mistake made by the machine shop when they improperly bored the engine with too much taper at the bottom of the bores.

Hindsight being what it is, the taper probably collapsed the skirts slightly (I didn't check). The collapsed skirts probably allowed for too much piston movement in the bores,.....the movement created a lot of noise and poor ring seal....and the rocking piston created the lousy looking cylinder walls I have now.

Fix the clearance thing now.
 
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#3,754
It's out and on the stand... I would pull it apart and have the bores opened up to meet your needs. It's much easier now and it will prevent you from saying F it and not doing it at all. I also agree that if you told them about boosting it then they should at a minimum work with you on fixing it and expediting the process.
 
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#3,755
yeah i am not going to rely on them to do anything quickly... I mean it did take 5 months to get me the engine back... and he did not have to do any work on the rotating assembly. So I would have to rely on a shop that is local, to just open the bores up a smidge..

I do agree with all of you, however I just dont have the drive to pull the engine i just assembled back apart.. I will have to sit on this one.
 
#3,756
I'd run it like it is for now. There are so many other things you need to tackle on that car...like the 4 lug brakes. The car will be plenty fast and reliable.

Once the car is built to handle north of 500hp I'd go back in the engine....or build a boost specific engine and sell the one you have for good money to someone here. You could recoupe a bunch of money to go toward the boosted project.

You've got a badd a$$ engine built...now let's get it in there so you can drive and work on the other stuff. Would love to see you make some brembos work....
 
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#3,757
I'm sorry about your Father (in Law). As you said he was like a father, not an in law. I've been divorced from my first wife 13 years now, but I still send her mom a Christmas card. She is such a nice woman. I was truly sad I had a business trip and couldn't go to Michigan for my ex-father in law's funeral several years ago. Just remember the good times you all shared, that's your tribute.

Pull the engine, get the bore specs from the piston company, and get the cylinders honed or bored out. It's easier to do now and shouldn't cost you much money. Just time.
 
#3,759
This Saturday I am going to try and get the engine back into the car, I still have a lot of things to get done before i can even attempt to start it however... mostly re-pinning of the harness and wiring all the extra sensors in, finding and installing the required shifter and cable.. modification of the transmission cross-member and so much more..
 
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#3,760
20190928_153239.jpg


The engine is in! Few issues however, I needed offset rack bushings so I am waiting for those to come in.. the rack was hitting the bottom of the oil pan.

The hood closes, but barely touches the intake manifold, Kyle and I used a grinder on the bottom side to clearance it (fiberglass) and that worked very well. The hood is just barely touching the intake, I may trim the hood in that area and reshape it.

I am currently working on the transmission mount and crossmember I had to cut the tack welds so it could slide easily. I will post pictures once I'm done with that part.

The headers did not fit... so I was forced to buy a set of 1¾ long tube headers Doug's headers ceramic coated the ones that come with adapter plates. Got a smoking deal on them for 400.
 
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