Build Thread Enola-Black Fox - Begin the heart transplant

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hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
Mod Dude
Dec 14, 2010
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thanks, I would like some more info on where you mounted the coils down low if you could or if you have a picture....?? I want them unseen
I dont know if I have any pics still. They were mounted on an aluminum plate with a couple of legs. The legs were clamped to the K member where the A-arms attach. Really rigged and not at all proud of what I did, haha. It was supposed to be a temp solution
 

CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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I dont know if I have any pics still. They were mounted on an aluminum plate with a couple of legs. The legs were clamped to the K member where the A-arms attach. Really rigged and not at all proud of what I did, haha. It was supposed to be a temp solution
I personally don’t see the benefit to any of you guys using Coil on plug unless the coil is actually “on the plug”. the factory locates the coil as close as possible to the plug for a reason, and it’s certainly not a packaging issue.
Why anybody would second guess the purpose of the intent, and force a 2’ or longer primary wire into the equation baffles me.

You can bet when I do the COP in the 2j those coil packs will be sitting directly over the respective plugs with as short a interconnect lead as possible.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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Engine looks great.
Pushrod length sounds about right, I ended up needing 7.65" after replacing some defective rockers:mad:
My Victor efi lower needed to be milled about 1/8" on each side to fit correctly also no pcv provisions
so I have both valve covers vented to a catch can mounted on passengers strut tower (n/a build).
 

stanglx2002

CT Material here
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Jul 7, 2005
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I personally don’t see the benefit to any of you guys using Coil on plug unless the coil is actually “on the plug”. the factory locates the coil as close as possible to the plug for a reason, and it’s certainly not a packaging issue.
Why anybody would second guess the purpose of the intent, and force a 2’ or longer primary wire into the equation baffles me.

You can bet when I do the COP in the 2j those coil packs will be sitting directly over the respective plugs with as short a interconnect lead as possible.
Mike, I like the technical side of you. You are correct many use the terms loosely, but there are (2) acronyms PNP (Coil Near Plug) and COP (Coil On Plug). I do agree that its best to do COP, but they are both trying to serve the purpose of giving the spark plug the best voltage/spark possible. This is the down fall of the single coil of it charging/discharging of a 8:1 ratio over a more efficient 1:1 ratio.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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Nov 29, 1999
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Mike, I like the technical side of you. You are correct many use the terms loosely, but there are (2) acronyms PNP (Coil Near Plug) and COP (Coil On Plug). I do agree that its best to do COP, but they are both trying to serve the purpose of giving the spark plug the best voltage/spark possible. This is the down fall of the single coil of it charging/discharging of a 8:1 ratio over a more efficient 1:1 ratio.
I understand the difference. I also understand that if you go through the extra hassle of getting 8 coils and configuring the MS to run them why cheat yourself out of the full benefit over how the coils look on a valve cover?
To me, the coils are a way to clean up the clutter instead of having 8 straggly looking plug wires draped all over the place.
 

a91what

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Apr 6, 2011
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I agree, however mounting them down low may not increase the plug wire length very much.. if it looks to be too much hassle I will just valve cover mount them and be done.
 

a91what

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The engine is almost completely assembled... It still needs the oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold and we are done...

that leads us to the transmission... I still need to pull the pan check it over and replace the filter in it.
-trans cooler, i have one now... best place to mount it i assume is up front, it has its own fan so i could mount it almost anywhere... should i use hardline or will rubber lines be ok?
-need a shifter for this thing...

-roll the rear fenders
-install the31 spline posi and axles
-c-clip eliminators

Install the MS3pro and harness
-repin the harness for a SBF
-put the interior back together
 
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droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
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You can always go to the cheap parts store and buy some metal brake line. It's cheap and pretty easy to bend.
Use short pieces of rubber hose to make the connections.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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The metal line will absorb heat, likely not an issue since the factory uses them but I would go bigger than brake lines.
if using rubber lines from the trans I would shield it where it gets near the exhaust pipes.
also on the GT I would mount it low but not below the radiator, this likely will not be a issue since you have a cooler with a fan, is the fan temperature controlled?
really don't need the fan unless it is not going to be in the front airflow area.
you know me, just thinking out loud.
also are you looking for a stock shifter? Remember I have that parts car that was auto.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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Dec 14, 2010
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I personally don’t see the benefit to any of you guys using Coil on plug unless the coil is actually “on the plug”. the factory locates the coil as close as possible to the plug for a reason, and it’s certainly not a packaging issue.
Why anybody would second guess the purpose of the intent, and force a 2’ or longer primary wire into the equation baffles me.

You can bet when I do the COP in the 2j those coil packs will be sitting directly over the respective plugs with as short a interconnect lead as possible.
I did mine strictly because I didn’t want to see any plug wires
 
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a91what

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well I was poking around on the stifflers page today and when i got home i looked under the car to see if my subframes will work with the cross braces... what do i find when i look under there, the subframes are incorrectly installed and have been since i bought the car... they did not notch the factory braces that come on the convertibles before welding them in.. they will have to be removed and completely reworked.

looks like some serious chassis stiffening will be happening soon as well, I am not sure if i want to just buy the fit system and install it or make my own.. I could save money by making it myself or I can save time by using a kit...
 
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Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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In the spring I welded in a set of Stifflers jacking rails to go along with the sub-frames I already have.
The rails are extremely useful and make putting the car in the air much easier also provide some additional stiffness.
I believe they are part of the fit system.
I understand your point the components are just square/round tubing cut to length and powder coated, nothing fancy.
The benefit of buying the complete kit is time and convenience.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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I have the instructions for the " how to make your own" set. It's as easy as:
1.
8a2e_zpsdljr6j8o.jpg

2.
shf6_zpsak1axpy3.jpg

3.
d6n5_zpsrvywtsmy.jpg

I have a much more detailed version of this from early on in the build. ( page 5 of my build) I will say ( and @Davedacarpainter can testify to it) that the biggest pain of the whole process was trying to weld the " jacking rail" to the pinch weld. You simply could not get that galvanized/seam filled area to stop splattering molten metal all over the place ( and you as well) you can see where I removed the paint on all of the areas where I intended to rosette weld..and, if you'll zoom in on the weld pics above, you can see what a freakin disaster that was.

So,..since this is the third car that I have done this to here is my " been there/dine that" advice....regardless of whether or not you intend to build or buy these things..

Weld the things at the top of the floor from inside the car where the JR will be when butted up against the pinch rail,....and use big assed 1/4" steel rivets all along and through the pinch rail to secure it instead of spot welding. It'll require one hell of a rivet gun to set the steel rivets, but it'll be a lot better than setting your legs on fire. I did the red car this way, and only because I broke my freakin rivet gun did I not do it on the monster.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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That piece on verts that run along the rockers I believe is aluminum, with the matrix type jacking rails you can scrap that factory piece, but you likely already knew that.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
13,874
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polk county florida
Welllll, I don't know about stifflers, this is from memory on a build I saw that was owner built. Some kits may incorporate this piece, it's either aluminum or pop metal of some sort.