Build Thread Enola-Black Fox - Begin the heart transplant

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a91what

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Here i am at 11:30 at night typing this out.... thinking why the hell am I looking at turbo's for this 393.... I dont need boost i dont need boost i dont need boost.... who am i kidding... I need boost...

I did some searching and a set of twin .56 trim turbos would fit nicely and make the boost level i want with a stable map... well in the efficiency range of the turbos.

Or i just buy some tubing and connect these headers to my existing exhaust under the car and let it eat for a while NA....

I think i may have some kind of disease... Like Mike i lay in bed at night and cant sleep, I have never really slept that well to begin with... but car related stuff makes it much worse.

I slipped the Driveshaft into place today and after some slight modification it fits, with the car resting on the suspension I have roughly 1/4 of play between the transmission and the rear end.. It is a tight fit but i think this is about at close as the two will be together, if I am not mistaken the rearend moves away from the transmission at full sag. I may try and video the DS moving with my phone as I fully load the suspension in the back, I do not want to send the DS away and have it modified but i may have to...
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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Here i am at 11:30 at night typing this out.... thinking why the hell am I looking at turbo's for this 393.... I dont need boost i dont need boost i dont need boost.... who am i kidding... I need boost...

I did some searching and a set of twin .56 trim turbos would fit nicely and make the boost level i want with a stable map... well in the efficiency range of the turbos.

Or i just buy some tubing and connect these headers to my existing exhaust under the car and let it eat for a while NA....

I think i may have some kind of disease... Like Mike i lay in bed at night and cant sleep, I have never really slept that well to begin with... but car related stuff makes it much worse.

I slipped the Driveshaft into place today and after some slight modification it fits, with the car resting on the suspension I have roughly 1/4 of play between the transmission and the rear end.. It is a tight fit but i think this is about at close as the two will be together, if I am not mistaken the rearend moves away from the transmission at full sag. I may try and video the DS moving with my phone as I fully load the suspension in the back, I do not want to send the DS away and have it modified but i may have to...
You're such a weiner.
If you decide to go down this path, I got nothing to say, except..
You'll have more power than the car will be able to use, and you'll be the guy that has to keep the 5 pound Wastegate springs installed, so you can get it to actually stop blazing tires...
In high gear.
Just look back at the builds here..every guy that was making 700-900 has sold, or has detuned the car to actually be able to enjoy it..
And for the record,..I had twin 56's on the 363 before I went with a single 95mm while it was still in the blue Conquest.
Car made 638 RWHP at 15 psi, but those little wheezers were maxed out..if you do this, your probably better off with a single bigger unit.
And you won't have to buy two Wastegates then.
Now I'm going to bed,..I have plenty to discuss with the 3AMD, and he'll definitely be wanting to talk, so I need my sleep.
 
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a91what

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For the record 6-9psi is the goal... and I want no more than 700hp.. the injectors will max out.
I will run a 3psi spring and use a 4 port wastegate so I can quadruple the boost if needed, with my traction control and boost control settings I should not have an issue..
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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For the record 6-9psi is the goal... and I want no more than 700hp.. the injectors will max out.
I will run a 3psi spring and use a 4 port wastegate so I can quadruple the boost if needed, with my traction control and boost control settings I should not have an issue..
" I want no more than 700" he says..
I said to myself last night, "550-600" is the ultimate target.

The alcoholic says: " just one more, maybe just a little one"
The drug addict says: " How much will you give me for my wedding ring."
The fat girl says: " Just one more bite"

How many of us are kidding themselves?
 
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a91what

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I am concerned the driveshaft is too long.... with the suspension loaded I only have a 1/4" of movement, I was barely able to get the driveshaft into place.. I think I will be ok but am looking for assurance, if not I will have to find a place to modify the DS.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I am concerned the driveshaft is too long.... with the suspension loaded I only have a 1/4" of movement, I was barely able to get the driveshaft into place.. I think I will be ok but am looking for assurance, if not I will have to find a place to modify the DS.
I'm in the same place. In the old config, the drive shaft hung out about 1/2" ( maybe?) even that far out, I think the balancer ring compressed the rubber seal, at some part of the drive, and allowed it to leak. But I could get the driveshaft in/out with no problem. The driveshaft is in as deep as it goes at ride height weighted. Under accel or deceleration, the rear is either pulling up or nosing down, and in both instances pulling the d/s out of the trans.
 

90sickfox

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Hey look man....you've built some awesome stuff. Back in the day we used to modify our own drive shafts. Never had an issue....especially if its steel. Just grind the weld off the tube for the u joint flange. The u joint flange cup thingy slides inside the drive shaft. Usually, it can be pulled or tapped out with a medium hammer. Cut the shaft tube square. Clean the metal up and lay the shaft in angle iron to hold it straight. We would ratchet strap the angle iron to the shaft and tack weld...then finish weld. We would mark the orientation of the u joint to shaft before disassembly. Never had an issue with vibration.

I did not shorten my aluminum shaft that's on my car now myself. I had a place called Tex Welding outside of baltimore do it for me. I think they took 3/4 in. out of it. They didn't balance it and I have no issues with vibration. It's a Ford Racing driveshaft.

Could chop up a factory driveshaft to experiment with. I'm sure someone had one layin' around. Probably under a parts car convertible taking up space in their yard. Karthief may have something like that.

...or...get the pros to do it.

In actuality the driveshaft doesn't move that much. I shortened mine just to get the seal to ride in the same place when I put in my IRS. Didn't like how close it was to the u joint but a bunch of folks have no issue. The SRA moves more than IRS.

The control arm arch does move the rear away from the trans in full droop. During a hard launch the rear twists and pushes on the bushings making up some of that movement. You can usually see the wear pattern is on the yoke from the seal.

20191020_154329.jpg


That should be the pattern from the seal lip
 

a91what

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I have the DS in the truck now, I plan on having it modified by a local shop with amazing reviews. Going to remove 1 inch from the DS and have new HD u joints installed.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Can you measure the t5 with the bell housing on it and then the r4 to see what the difference is? I think you need a smidge more than 1". Just to be sure.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Not cool...and aluminum driveshaft....makes my long ars thread useless. That is a little scary. Is there any way to move the engine forward ? Maybe get an extra .5 from opening up the engine mount holes. That would also move the header .5 on the shaft. No bueno
 

a91what

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Made some headway today with the DS decision and got a few small things taken care of.. filled and primed the engine along with painting a few brackets.
I stripped down the transmission harness to just what I need and have it on the work bench. I plan on doing some harness work soon so may as well start with the unknown. I think I may cut a relief just in front of the shifter to drop the harness through with a grommet around it.

I will pull the transmission pan sometime this week and get the valve body out so I can do the level2 kit on it as well..

Its coming together quickly in my mind now that I have the big hurdles (to me) taken care of.
 

a91what

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Dropped the DS off this morning at a DriveLine specialist, guy has nothing but 5 star reviews on his business according to google so i feel comfortable about this. The total cost will be somewhere around $130 to have the DS shortened by 3/4" and balanced. Not too bad, when i get under the car to install the DS I will go ahead and pull the valve body out for modification.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Let me ask you this...Is the engine in for good now? Please tell me that you have plans for the rest of the engine compartment, Cause right now You're putting a prom queen in the middle of a mud bog.
 

a91what

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Let me ask you this...Is the engine in for good now? Please tell me that you have plans for the rest of the engine compartment, Cause right now You're putting a prom queen in the middle of a mud bog.
lol funny you say that, I was just looking at the scott rod fender liners. I like the black rivet in ones fits the theme and will clean it all up nicely, I just have to wait for fundage to come back up.