Well the transmission crossmember even with the tubes cut does not have enough play for me to get the transmission mount to bolt into place. Now I have to decide if it is worth my time to modify this one rather heavily or just by the stifflers...
Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
- Thread starter a91what
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Steel1
Mustang Master
Coming along nicely !
One more thing to look out for is the sway bar hitting the oil pan, not sure if it will be an issue for
you depending on the pan used.
What trans are you using ?
One more thing to look out for is the sway bar hitting the oil pan, not sure if it will be an issue for
you depending on the pan used.
What trans are you using ?
I am using a 4r70W full electronic control with a microsquirt
I dont know what you mean by skirt clearance Mike, could you please elaborate. I have not yet verified the swaybar clearance, I am just taking it one step at a time.
I dont know what you mean by skirt clearance Mike, could you please elaborate. I have not yet verified the swaybar clearance, I am just taking it one step at a time.
So i had the TB flipped over for clearance and ran into an issue... the thermostat housing no longer fits, it is in a fight with the idle valve.. I am at an impasse.. do i buy a different thermostat housing.... maybe one of those 160* ones will work.
Didn't you call it....side clearance? I told you to pull the engine and fix it. What was it if it wasn't piston skirt clearance?
ah yes, i decided to leave it be after a talk with the piston manufacturer.. 3.7 clearance will be nice for the full breakin period and as long as i dont get too stupid [high boost] and spray water i should be able to run 6-9psi.. on this 393 that should be more than enough to be scary.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Steve you could always make spacers and lower the k member for clearance. Especially if you only need a little. There are only 6 half inch spacers needed. ( 4 for k member...2 for sway bar and 12 holes to drill...and 12 new bolts )
Hmm... you have me intrigued... I never even thought of that being an option... will this force me to do some crazy measuring to keep the k member square? I can easily get 1/2 or 3/8 steel plate.
- Mar 2, 2015
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No craziness at all. Um....I forget the guys name that has the Daddy wagon.... I've been sippin' ...but he did it to get his 351 under his stock hood. Geometry should stay about the same. A bunch of guys I've known have done it to keep stock hoods.
So I looked up a set of k member spacers, $90 to the door with hardware.
Then I pulled up the needed parts to make my own using aluminum bar, the bar is cheap enough but those bolts are stupid expensive.
Then I pulled up the needed parts to make my own using aluminum bar, the bar is cheap enough but those bolts are stupid expensive.
The k member bolts are metric.
I just went out and looked at everything, I see no reason why the bolts wont be long enough to reuse with a 3/8 spacer.
The swaybar is going to smash the pan for sure, so if I space the k member I will need to space the swaybar mount easily twice as much. Maybe even an inch.
Not a big deal easy enough to work out.
I just went out and looked at everything, I see no reason why the bolts wont be long enough to reuse with a 3/8 spacer.
The swaybar is going to smash the pan for sure, so if I space the k member I will need to space the swaybar mount easily twice as much. Maybe even an inch.
Not a big deal easy enough to work out.
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Ok got the offset bushings in the steering rack.. and the oil pan still rests on top of it... I am going to be forced to either put spacers on the motor mounts or I think the standard mounts dont sit as low? I am using convertible mounts right now.
- Jul 7, 2005
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Yes, the standard mounts are not as low.
I have a set of Prothane Motor Mounts that I was planning on selling if interested give me a shout.
I have a set of Prothane Motor Mounts that I was planning on selling if interested give me a shout.