Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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Yeah wish that were the case, I need more 0-5v inputs. I can switch some of the items to hz style but the cost would be counterproductive.
I have been wanting to say, you should get the pimpxs out to more... the ms2pnp is near eol I would rather see it on the lmr website.
Btw. Is it possible to add a jumper for 5.0 ac input to the nitrous in... it's a 12v input signal. I added ac recently for a customer and had to work some bit wise and loop magic to make the wot relay function (wired nc from factory) like I wanted it. Having an inverted output would have made that MUCH simpler
For those wondering about progress on the build itself... I have been so busy with my dayjob; tuning side gig; R&D gig; working on the house; ect ect... that i have not even touched the car in over a month....
Stinger
Founding Member
We don't have the sort of margins to allow us to "share" them with other companies at the current pricing structure. We're essentially selling an MS3Pro for MS2PNP money. So to let LMR or others sell them, we'd have to raise the price (and we'd have to raise it on our own site as well as LMR wouldn't sell them if they had a higher price than we do). I don't see the value in that when they can always be purchased from our site without costing everyone more money just so LMR can have a piece of the pie. Ultimately the "solution" should be simply getting the word out to people so they know it exists, is more capable, etc. Unfortunately we're not allowed to do this on forums as it's "advertising" unless we pay a ton of money to all of the forums to do so (which we've done a bit with the truck forums for the PiMPxshift but it wasn't overly effective). I guess I have a hard time understanding why it's important for LMR to carry ANY of these ECU's (ours or DIY's or whatever) when they are available for the same price direct from the company that makes them, other than to get more eyeballs on them (which again, isn't worth it if we get the eyeballs on it but also no longer make any money on them and we still have to support them). Also, if they sold our ECU's, they'd also need to sell all of the other "stuff" we sell for them like the plug and play coil on plug kits, CAS system (cam angle sensor TFI conversion to allow coil on plug without adding a crank sensor), IGN1A coils, flex fuel sensors, boost control solenoids, expansion harnesses, engine harnesses, etc.) and all that does is cost everyone else more money when the prices go up.
I'm not sure if you've seen that we now have a "modern" site (www.stinger-performance.com/store) to use for purchases, not the old hard to use one.
AC input to N2O 12v input in expansion harness, WOT cutout to any available output works as you're outlining.
Gotcha on the pricing deal it's tough.
The wot relay does work fine to shut the compressor off, however if you want to control the relay to turn the compressor on and off it requires a bit more work if you dont want to damage or otherwise modify the harness...
Pin 53-54 swapped allows the led out to control the relay on a 5.0 and then pin 10 must be taken to the expansion for nitrous in.
The ability to raise the idle before the compressor comes on is nice to have.
Stinger
Founding Member
Is this for a Fox or something else? As far as I remember, Fox's don't control the compressor with the ECU, they just disable it at WOT.
If you say exactly what you're trying to do electrically, we can tell you how to do it.
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I know how to do it, it's already done. I wanted the relay to work to control the compressor at all times, not just wot.
I simply set an unused output in the ac settings dialog since it wont let me set a loop there. Then using a loop watched the port for this output. Then set this loop on a programmable output. As setup it enables the relay when ac is off and disables when ac is running. Effective the same as rewiring the pin 87a to pin 87 on the relay itself... so he did not have to dig into the wire tuck.
I decided to go ahead and order the chassis parts I need to finish that part of the project and put her back on the ground.
The stifflers fit kit will be here next week.
The stifflers fit kit will be here next week.
I got the stifflers kit in yesterday, I plan to install it this weekend. I pulled the subframe connectors out just to see how much of a difference between these and the ones on the car.
It is a freaking huge difference, I mean the full length are easily twice the size of what's on the car now. These plus the fit kit will be a major increase in rigidity for Enola.
It is a freaking huge difference, I mean the full length are easily twice the size of what's on the car now. These plus the fit kit will be a major increase in rigidity for Enola.
Today I finally went out and did something on my own car. It started with drilling out all the rivets holding the factory stiffener plates. Most of the rivets were doing nothing, I am glad i decided to do this now. The PO decided to weld the subframes onto the stiffener plate, they were basically doing nothing.
this mess was difficult to remove, I tried my best to leave the subframes undamaged
This is where I stopped, I ran out of daylight today, the new subframe has been test fitted and is still bolted to the seat but I want to clean the area and give it a coat of paint while I can. Then I will get these welded up, you can see the major difference in the quality.
This and the fit kit installed will be a major improvement.
this mess was difficult to remove, I tried my best to leave the subframes undamaged
This is where I stopped, I ran out of daylight today, the new subframe has been test fitted and is still bolted to the seat but I want to clean the area and give it a coat of paint while I can. Then I will get these welded up, you can see the major difference in the quality.
This and the fit kit installed will be a major improvement.
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I tell ya, when you get interrupted every 45mins to do some menial task for the wife not much gets done quickly.
But, she is happy and I am still making progress.
These welded nicely, I learned quickly what settings this new welder liked. I am not a super skilled mig welder but its smooth when you get all of it correct, this one is flux core.
Everything is in as you can see, took about 5hrs for this side alone. Now I get to start on the passenger side. I did weld the z rail to the pinch weld in 4 places along its length, I figure with all the rivets and a few welds it should be solid.
But, she is happy and I am still making progress.
These welded nicely, I learned quickly what settings this new welder liked. I am not a super skilled mig welder but its smooth when you get all of it correct, this one is flux core.
Everything is in as you can see, took about 5hrs for this side alone. Now I get to start on the passenger side. I did weld the z rail to the pinch weld in 4 places along its length, I figure with all the rivets and a few welds it should be solid.
That is some SERIOUS Sub frame connecting there man. And your doing the same on the other side? WOW
I guess as long as you can have the room to do all the work you need otherwise with them installed. I would put a weld on the pinch rail 1 inch per every 6 in to foot. Why not if you have the time and patience. Plus Practice on a MIG is Practice in any way you get it, especially overhead.
I guess as long as you can have the room to do all the work you need otherwise with them installed. I would put a weld on the pinch rail 1 inch per every 6 in to foot. Why not if you have the time and patience. Plus Practice on a MIG is Practice in any way you get it, especially overhead.
Steel1
Mustang Master
The Stifflers jacking rails I installed had 6 welds per side down the pinch weld, per Stifflers.
Those sfc are awesome !
Those sfc are awesome !
