Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

well i am at the point where i need to check for pushrod length... the 302 rods are too short and the 351 are too long... so i cut one down to an approximate length and used it to check PTV clearances with no head gasket in place.

I have a freakin mile of PTV clearance the valves barely touched the playdough. I will have to do what i usually do and make my own adjustable push rod to find the length that centers me up on the valve.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


I fckin hate them too..
So much so, I had the Pistons pressed on the rods the last time I went through the monsters engine.

BTW that looks great...Whose glad they decided to go with a 351, instead of a future broken 5.0?
I am very happy with the decision so far, the machinist did excellent work... not to mention that everything in this assembly gets mega torque applied to it... 64ftlbs on a darn rod bolt... stock stuff just is not the same.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I found my pushrod length using the above method.. 7.6" is what I need, going to order them tomorrow along with my list of AN fittings and line I need to plumb in the fuel stuff. Then I get to figure out a way to vent the valve covers.... yay...
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
An air water separator for an air compressor will work as a catch can. Not that you should need one on a NA build. A factory style PCV and a hose to the intake should work....along with a fresh air hose running from the valve cover to after t hff e maf.

I think you may be starting to over think. With the intake you have valve cover removal should be simple. I'd fire it up first and then see how much vapor you actually get out of the fill cap. That way you know how big of a system you need to build. The small oil separator works on Dusty. Has a small amount of vapor blow by. Nothing noticable comes out of my breather tank that's hooked to passenger valve cover and I get about a table spoon of oil in the separator hooked to the pcv every 3 cruises with the car.
 
You can get oil in through a -12 male fitting using one of the small funnels that are out there. It's what I use.
Whether you use a hole saw, and use a bulkhead fitting, or have one cut down and welded to your covers, you're gonna want to have nice looking hoses coming off the valve covers when you chose to do it.-10/ -12 Fuel fittings can be purchased with big assed nylon washers and nuts so that after cutting holes in your covers, you can literally bolt the an fitting to the cover.

So,....you hole saw the covers now,..use grommets and whatever else you want in the way of breathers for now until you go forced induction,...then when you do you'll be able to convert.
 
  • Like
  • Useful
Reactions: 3 users
teaser photos

20190905_191923.jpg
20190905_191930.jpg


dont mind the mess, I had to pull the generator out to give it a twice over for the hurricane that could have wiped us off the map...


I also found out that the intake manifold was a touch too wide to fit between the rails for the valve covers.... figures... no issue though a few passes on my router with a good carbide bit and a quick blocking with 180grit and the intake fits like a glove. with no gasket in place the runners line up perfectly, lets hope that does not change.

EDIT: so we are clear i did not have to touch the gasket surfaces, the area around the bosses for the injectors had a small protrusion that needed to be machined down at a right angle to the base of the manifold where it meets the block. I then de-burred everything and cleaned it up nicely.
 
  • Like
  • Happy
  • Love
Reactions: 6 users