Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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Might not be too loud with the top down. ( pulling air from inside trunk ). With the top up it would probably get old real quick right behind your head.
 
I decided to just build some splash shields..

I did some input testing and wired up the oil pressure and back pressure sensors. Hot idle I have 60psi with a 10w30 oil and it jumps up to 75psi at 3500 rpm.
The back pressure sensor actually registers a negative value at idle and with throttle input, this tells me that the scavenging effect of the system is working. When I goose it enough to spool the turbos I do get a pressure spike in the exhaust as they wind down, this is because I do not have a BOV on the system yet.

We will be getting the AC working again in the S2000 this weekend, taking it up to the shop my dad works at [they deal in old cars] we are going to borrow the dealer plate to take Enola for a shake down run.
 
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I cant help autocorrect gets it wrong every time.

NO.. actually the turbos dont even get hot enough to feel any heat through the turbo blankets.. also NO. I dont want to do it like everyone else does let them live in the sea of sameness
I remember reading somewhere that heat ( as it relates to an exhaust system) is a necessary evil when turbos are in the mix. A hot turbo moves air more efficiently as compared to a cold one.

Specifically….
In general, turbochargers should be placed in the hottest areas of an engine bay as turbine efficiency is proportional to the kinetic energy of the incoming air to the turbocharger fins. So the hotter the air, the better.

The Pros & Cons Of Rear-Mounted Turbos | TD Blog​

 
I remember reading somewhere that heat ( as it relates to an exhaust system) is a necessary evil when turbos are in the mix. A hot turbo moves air more efficiently as compared to a cold one.

Specifically….
In general, turbochargers should be placed in the hottest areas of an engine bay as turbine efficiency is proportional to the kinetic energy of the incoming air to the turbocharger fins. So the hotter the air, the better.

The Pros & Cons Of Rear-Mounted Turbos | TD Blog

Yes, however in practice a smaller exhaust housing will alleviate this issue. Cooler gasses have less volume.
 
I spent a few hours on Sunday trying to get the damn transmission to function properly.. sometimes it would shift and other times it would not, very frustrating to the point I was ready to set it all on fire and drink beer. :flame:

Nothing seemed wrong... I finally gave up and decided to try something new, I removed the MSGPIO board I built in favor of a cased V3 Microsquirt running the same trans code. This did require that I completely repin the trans harness. As soon as we leave the driveway [pop driving me at the keyboard] it shifts into second, then third, then OD... MUTHRFUGR this GPIO bench tested fine but would/could not drive the solenoids I likely had a perfectly good transmission the first time..... :chair::mad::mad::mad::mad: we need angrier emojis

Now to the turbo issue...
I wired in an alarm to tell me if the oil was backing up at the scavenger pump then I went and drove the car around a bit on the dealer tag, I never got the alarm so I know the pump is able to keep up with the system easily enough. The first trip with the filters on got oil in the system, I simply pulled the filters and cleaned the pipes out for the next few drives, I have not gotten out their yet to see if they have oil in them.

The transmission tail shaft is leaking badly, I think they removed the AOD bushing and seal and put in a 4R bushing and seal.. just my luck, I am using an AOD yoke so its leaking enough that I had smoking exhaust and a puddle under the car. Nope the tailshaft is for an AOD. see reply below
 
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Ok so the problem actually seems to be a short driveshaft..... figures I shortened it before I squared up the K member ect now its too short and the yoke appears to be shortened as well. This is likely the leak, I have a good used steel driveshaft being brought over sometime this week.

The turbos and the piping appears to be oil free!! :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:woo banana time. This means I need to find some much larger filters for the turbos
 
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I spent a few hours on Sunday trying to get the damn transmission to function properly.. sometimes it would shift and other times it would not, very frustrating to the point I was ready to set it all on fire and drink beer. :flame:

Nothing seemed wrong... I finally gave up and decided to try something new, I removed the MSGPIO board I built in favor of a cased V3 Microsquirt running the same trans code. This did require that I completely repin the trans harness. As soon as we leave the driveway [pop driving me at the keyboard] it shifts into second, then third, then OD... MUTHRFUGR this GPIO bench tested fine but would/could not drive the solenoids I likely had a perfectly good transmission the first time..... :chair::mad::mad::mad::mad: we need angrier emojis

Now to the turbo issue...
I wired in an alarm to tell me if the oil was backing up at the scavenger pump then I went and drove the car around a bit on the dealer tag, I never got the alarm so I know the pump is able to keep up with the system easily enough. The first trip with the filters on got oil in the system, I simply pulled the filters and cleaned the pipes out for the next few drives, I have not gotten out their yet to see if they have oil in them.

The transmission tail shaft is leaking badly, I think they removed the AOD bushing and seal and put in a 4R bushing and seal.. just my luck, I am using an AOD yoke so its leaking enough that I had smoking exhaust and a puddle under the car. Nope the tailshaft is for an AOD. see reply below
Congratulations, you now have a soleless robot shifting the trans.
 
Damn that's low man. The import guys would love that. I used upr coilovers on Monroe struts to raise my front end about 1.5. The driveway liked kissing my bumper.
 
Damn that's low man. The import guys would love that. I used upr coilovers on Monroe struts to raise my front end about 1.5. The driveway liked kissing my bumper.
The coil over kit was left alone from when it was the 302, with the extra weight of the 351 and the k member swap I need to raise the car.
Raising the front means I need to raise the rear as well... I don't have coil overs in the back, any thoughts on how to achieve this?
 
The coil over kit was left alone from when it was the 302, with the extra weight of the 351 and the k member swap I need to raise the car.
Raising the front means I need to raise the rear as well... I don't have coil overs in the back, any thoughts on how to achieve this?
Uhhhh air shocks? :shrug:
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Air shocks would raise the rear though. I had them on Papa Smurf my 1988 econoline van. They do make them in the mustang style but no idea if they'd fit inside the shock tower. ( not that you'd go this route anyways ).

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You could put a rubber spacer above the rear spring. That'll raise it up a bit. Been so long since I've paid attention to factory style rear springs on our cars. Didn't sky jacker make adjustable rear control arms for raising the rear of a fox ?