Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

  • Sponsors (?)


Well today was eventful and frustrating but I did get the turbos mounted and part of the hot side in. This took quite a bit of time as we looked at many mounting options and finally settled on a location. Unfortunately pops has been having pain issues so he took off after lunch so most of the mounting had to be done by myself.

I am just now getting the hot side tacked into place, I dont want to get too far ahead because I will have to route the cold side as well. I am being cautious and going slow.

The turbos ended up in the rear bumper, I did not want to mount them in this location but after mockup they fit great although the exhaust will have to do an odd side bumper exit.
20200926_144930.jpg
20200926_144935.jpg
both exhaust will exit in the same location on either side, the wastegate looks lower than it is in this pictureit's actually fairly close to even with the bumper.

20200926_144943.jpg

You can see in this picture how close it is to the bumper cover, luckily they wont get that hot but I am going to blanket them both anyway for good measure. The cold side here will pipe above the fuel tank, there is actually plenty of room to fit a 2.5" pipe above the tank lip. The cold side will then hug the body of the car and slide past the hot side. The turbo exit is only 2" so I have leeway to oval the pipe if needed.

20200926_145347.jpg
a look at the passenger side, both turbos will have enough room to breath from this space, they will get decent filters and I plan on making some coffee can splash covers.
Notice how low the oil drain hangs.. I ordered a tight 90* fitting that will save me .75" and i will clock the center so its tilted at a 30* angle to give more clearance, good forbid It snags a speed bump or some :poo:.
I will mount the suction pump between the turbos in the bumper area so even tilted I wont worry at all, its rated to be mounted above the turbos.
20200926_123316.jpg

This side has the filler neck, I am going to take a 180* bend and cut it to make a s pipe to offset down away from the neck for the hot side. The cold side will have to be figured out maybe I can find a rubber offset coupler.
EE233D92-218C-4535-913E-D67DFAA90515.jpeg
 
The distance would be what, 2 feet of header verses 9' of pipe? That's just to get the hot stuff to the turbo, then it's gotta get back to the engine, just doesn't make sense to me, I know once it gets to boost all's good but damn, that's a long way to get there.
And it's gonna be cool as hell!!! :p
 
I've seen remote mounts in Fox Bodies before that were put beneath the [removed] rear seat. The entire thread was filled with nay-sayers about how long it would take to get boost if he ever got boost.

From what I recall, it all worked just fine. Though it's true that you will have a larger area of down-pipe to pressurize, the change in area isn't really enough to be much of an issue. Since the exhaust material doesn't expand and pressure builds equally across all container surfaces, the differences are minimal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I did some googlefu last night, not because I think it's a bad idea but because I remember watching a certain small pickup drag racing with twin (I think) hair dryers in the bed, granted these were race cars but in reading I saw that the spool time is not that much different but the temps were definitely lower. Several mustangs had them under the back seat area that had the floor there modified. Mostly s197 cars and one s550 and they were street cars, I didn't come across any fox body's similar to this.
Here's to you, steve :kmcoff: for taking a bellybutton and pushing the limits.
 
Are you intercooling, too, or just relying on the long runs back to cool the air charge?

If I'm reading right, this is a TT Coyote motor? How wide of wheels and what tires are you going to be running?I imagine it's going to be a handful on any street compound.
 
393cid stroked 351w with 190cc heads longtubes.. I am running a 285/35/18 in the rear. I have very conservative goals, this is mostly to make the car unique. If it makes 600 600 [damn well better] It will be a handful for sure.
 
  • Like
  • Winner
Reactions: 2 users
You forgot the intercooler question. :p
The massive surface area of the cold side and the air moving under the car acts as an intercooler. The consensus from testing is that no intercooler is needed.
I plan to spray water ethonal and alchohol mixed 33% each, these 3 will work together at differing thermal dissipation rates to cool the air charge and keep the piston cool.
 
  • Like
  • Useful
  • Agree
Reactions: 5 users
STS Turbo had remote turbo kits for Corvettes and people seemed to like them. One of the car shows did an episode about them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I have made further progress, but I need to get pictures of the cold side. I am having a real fun time getting the welds solid without pinholes... I am annoyed enough I considered trying to seal them with flashing tape [metal backed tape] but I will flap disk them down first and run a new bead across the welds first, if I have enough patience I can hit them with my tig.

passenger hot side.
1602256413160.png


this actually fits better than the tailpipe did.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: 2 users
I'm guessing the pipe is aluminized and that may be causing your issues. Have you tried cleaning each joint about an inch back with a grinder or flap disk?
Yes it is aluminized, no I have not tried that. I will the next time I go to weld on it however. I can always paint the cold side, the hot side will just have to rust. I plan on header wrapping the hot side from the turbo over the axle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user